I don't quite know how you stand with digital, but with film there are exposure issues to take into account - each successive shot has to be 1/2 the exposure of the preceding one, if I remember correctly!
More than a handful of shots per frame becomes impractical, if not impossible to achieve satisfactorily.

I see no reason why a camera can't be programmed for a combined interval and multi-exposure mode but like Mannesty, I'd have thought better results could be achieved on the computer - you're not serious about 90 frames, are you?

"The problem with the superimposing and interval shooting at the same time is that the superimposed image is the first image taken via the interval shooting. There is no alternative way to change these settings".


well what else would it be?........perhaps he wants a mode whereby the camera gets itself out of the bag, wanders around for a bit and then decides to take it's own pictures

Surely if you wanted to expose further images on top of existing ones, again you perhaps could program a camera to do it but it'd be better on a computer!

I guess you've got nothing to lose..............that bl**dy micro-switch is bugging me tho', has yours become stuck in by any chance?

I can't help thinking that it must do something and as the display flickered when I pressed mine, it might just be related to your problem - like something needs resetting perhaps.
I presume you've tried pressing the 'clear' button by the viewfinder - that's supposed to reset everything to default values.

I know we're grabbing at straws, but if it is fixable, it's almost bound to be something simple that we've overlooked!

Thankyou for setting my mind at rest re. the focus motors - mine is obviously working as it should

Page 4 of the SFX manual states:
"When you attach or detach the battery-loaded grip, all the indicators will appear on the CENTIC display panel, and the flash-ready lamp will also light up".
After a second or two, the panel should then show the selected mode and frame no. etc.

Page 5:
"If the panel remains inactive or all its indicators light up, the battery is either exhausted or not inserted properly, so check it again".

Battery Warning Mark (symbol flashes when battery needs changing)
".......If the battery drops below the required voltage, the shutter release button will lock automatically, and the indicators on the CENTIC panel will all light up".

So your SFX is initially behaving correctly but for some reason, failing to complete the cycle to the point where it is ready for use

The LCD indications and flash ready light sound normal and I would image that the battery power will stabilize at around 5.8V.
Obviously, there's a bigger problem here if the battery level continues to drop and there's no functionality from the camera.
If that is the case, I doubt very much if you'd consider a repair to be economical - esp. as the SFX can be bought very cheaply these days and it has little or no sentimental value!

I'd love to know the purpose of the micro-switch though - anyone shed some light?

Jerry, can you recall whether the sound of the SFX focus motor was different to the SFXn or not?
I know the 'n' is supposed to be slightly faster but mine is louder and has quite a high pitched whining noise by comparison to the earlier model.
It functions perfectly and I'm sure that it's nothing to worry about but I've only recently acquired the 'n' and it's a little disconcerting when switching from one model to the other - there really is quite a dramatic difference!

On second thoughts, the micro-switch must have a function with an alternative power source, such as the optional AA battery grip, because fitting the 'n' holder to the SFX makes no difference at all. I expected the display to go blank (like the SFXn) but it didn't

I conclude therefore that switching battery holders has not caused the problem that you describe.
Removing the battery from the SFX does cause all icons to illuminate and they fade after a minute or two, so what you saw was indeed normal.

Perhaps someone else can shed some light on why Pentax incorporated the recess into the moulding of the 'n' holder and to the exact function of the micro-switch (when I removed the battery from the SFX - all icons illuminated, I pressed the switch and the display flickered.....if that means anything)

Hello Jerry,
I don't think you've done any damage but it sounds as though you've got another problem.
Does the SFX function properly with it's own battery holder?

I have two SFXs (one with a locked mirror) and an SFXn and I've just tried switching the holders as you did.
The micro-switch would appear to activate the display, which is always active on the SFX (showing mode and frame no.), when a battery is fitted. With the SFXn however the recess means that the display is only active when the power switch is 'on' - effectively making the micro-switch redundant and therefore extending the battery life.
Curiously, it doesn't work the other way though - with the power switch off, the SFXn LCD is blank, even with the SFX battery holder fitted, so I presume that the micro-switch has no function whatsoever on the SFXn model.

I've found that both camera models function normally, regardless of which battery holder is used.

BTW, there's no backup battery - at least not that I'm aware of!

I thought it was funny

I had a Rikenon 35-70 (F4 I think), back in my ME Super days and was never disappointed with it. The camera came with the M50mm F2 and the Rikenon was my first zoom lens, perhaps not great but it was ok!

To return to the original post, Ricoh (Rikenon) lenses are pretty good and a 50mm F1.4 is well worth hanging on to.
I do hope that metafiction isn't too disheartened by the above replies and I'm sure that he can get some excellent results from that lens - careful use of a lens hood and choice of aperture should help in bright conditions

I recently took a few backlit portrait shots with fill-in flash (probably out of effective range though) and I must say that I don't think the DL handles those situations in auto mode as well as my Z1-P does.
The subjects were very dark but I was shooting in RAW and as Matt said, they lightened up very nicely.

I have to admit that I normally leave the camera in Auto-pict mode (to be fair, the camera is pretty clever) and usually only switch modes when using my MF lenses. This is a shameful habit that I developed after discovering that the Z1 was usually smarter than me and more often than not, rather than risk wasting valuable film, I'd just let it get on with it!

When I flick through my old photos, there is a much higher percentage of good quality shots from the Z1 than from my SFX - mainly down to the metering systems but also through my laziness (I used to get plenty of good results from my ME Super, where I played a more active role in the picture taking process).

With the DL, there's absolutely no excuse and I shall endeavour to use more of it's functions - please consider my wrist slapped .

Anna, I'll have to check the book but I don't think you can recalibrate the metering or alter many settings in Auto-pict mode because you've given full control to the camera - as Mannesty said "point 'n hope"

Same for me, but then I'm using an ancient laptop with a 12 inch screen, set to 800x600.

Excellent site Liam, well done