Calculations is an excellent way to convert. There's more than one way for sure!

I think you have to add those things as an option. As I read that I thought Good Grief, no! What a nuisance I would find that, which just goes to show how people's requirements differ.

In the end, we end up needing something like the K20D or K7 with all the options for everybody.

Generally I use manual focus for macro shots as I don't want the camera to try and refocus every time I'm ready to make the exposure. If I do use AF, then I still use centre spot and use the Quick Shift to readjust as I require.

May I mention that you mean Depth of Field, not depth of focus, which is something else entirely. Depth of focus relates to the leeway available in the accurate placement of the sensor or film to make sure the focused image falls on the correct spot.

Depth of Field refers to how much of our picture is sharp from front to back.

Hope that helps!

Is that Newark, UK or Newark, NJ?

We still use laptops in the field, but in the future the much smaller netbooks might well be the answer.

Kevin MacDonnell once wrote that he could change the film in a Leica "standing on his head" - this rather foolish statement was taken to task, although not as quickly as it would have been in this forum.

Needless to say, a few issues of "Photography" later, the pictures were published of him accomplishing this deed.

I don't think it's the normal method. It does make changing films in riots seem more plausible though.

It's starting to sound like a lack of communication between lenses and body. I would check all the contacts on mount and lens very carefully - is one damaged on the mount?

Also make sure the lenses are clicked firmly into position (firmly but not too much!)on the body as any misalignment in mounting could be an issue as well.

If you are using a lens with an aperture ring, is it set firmly to "A"?

If you are using an M series lens with no electrical contacts on the mount have you activated the custom function "Using aperture ring" to "Permitted"? I notice you may have quite a few older lenses.

"An Englishman's home is his castle" is perhaps a phrase that explains the viewpoint in the UK. Basically, that what we do is our affair and nothing to do with anyone else - the presumption is one of innocence. Anything that offends that is a bit contrary to the way of life as it has always been.

In the same way the presumption in law has been that everything is allowed unless specifically proscribed, because Honour and other good values were taught as a way of life, this was a viable situation.

Whether this can be sustained in the modern world I really don't know.

I can answer No 3 straight away. Lightbulbs have a very low colour temperature and they are way outside the operational limit of Auto White Balance. You need to set the Tungsten setting for such lighting.

This assumes of course that these were available light shots, because if you were using the flash to illuminate the subject then the ambient lighting colour would not normally be relevant. However, with your very slow shutter speeds you may well be getting some ambient exposure (which will be coloured) along with the camera shake that goes with it. The flash would then perhaps be over-exposing faces that wwere close to the camera.

So I can see what might be going wrong, but to be sure a sample photo posted here would be very helpful so we can see for ourselves and advise better.