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Price drop to £900
Comment by icemanneo posted on FS Pentax K-3 with lenses at 14/10/2015 - 11:47
Price drop to £950 if anyone is interested.
Comment by icemanneo posted on FS Pentax K-3 with lenses at 12/10/2015 - 16:05
Price drop to £1,100 or offers in that region. Buyer to pay for postage or local pick up from Chelsfield area (Kent region).
Comment by icemanneo posted on FS Pentax K-3 with lenses at 09/10/2015 - 09:35
Hi all,
I have for sale the following items:
Pentax K-3 with (when i find it) original box and accessories. There will also be 2 extra 3rd party batteries included.
Sigma 70-300mm lens in great condition.
Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 HSM Macro II.
Pentax 18-55mm weather proof lens.
The camera has taken around 2,400 photos.
They are all in great condition with all mechanisms working without issue. I am looking for around £1,300 or anything within that region with postage being £25.
Any questions then please ask away!
I have for sale the following items:
Pentax K-3 with (when i find it) original box and accessories. There will also be 2 extra 3rd party batteries included.
Sigma 70-300mm lens in great condition.
Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 HSM Macro II.
Pentax 18-55mm weather proof lens.
The camera has taken around 2,400 photos.
They are all in great condition with all mechanisms working without issue. I am looking for around £1,300 or anything within that region with postage being £25.
Any questions then please ask away!
Comment by icemanneo posted on FS Pentax K-3 with lenses at 08/10/2015 - 10:40
Puggy wrote:
Hi Again
This Forum is not really the place to discuss other brands, it is rather frowned upon but lets say you are correct in so much as the "perfect" solution does not seem to exist in aps-c. My research tells me one brand is hampered by slow burst rate, one by poor IQ and one by an EVF that stutters when shooting burst.
I'm still trying to find out if the improved af-c on the K3 ii will have any positive effect on screw drive lenses or only on the two new models?
As an aside HTH is "Hope that Helps" not my name hehe, a legacy of my online gaming days where everything gets abrieviated
Regards
Pete A
Sorry HTH...i mean Pete A Hi Again
This Forum is not really the place to discuss other brands, it is rather frowned upon but lets say you are correct in so much as the "perfect" solution does not seem to exist in aps-c. My research tells me one brand is hampered by slow burst rate, one by poor IQ and one by an EVF that stutters when shooting burst.
I'm still trying to find out if the improved af-c on the K3 ii will have any positive effect on screw drive lenses or only on the two new models?
As an aside HTH is "Hope that Helps" not my name hehe, a legacy of my online gaming days where everything gets abrieviated
Regards
Pete A
I thought I was up with all the text speak! Guess, like my camera and set-up...still got a lot to learn
I apologise if my initial topic was incorrect but I am thinking of purchasing the Pentax 150-450mm lens a little later in the year. The reviews look promising and it could be exactly what i am looking for to go with my current lens.
Just as a side note from me, should i include my pictures in this post? Or put it in another section?
I appreciate the help and advice already given but don't want to upset the moderators
Regards,
Mike
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 16/07/2015 - 17:24
Blythman wrote:
Lots of advise for tennis. First things first though. Does it take a sharp shot of a static subject, when sitting on a tripod with SR and OS both switched off? Try when focusing through the viewfinder, and also when focusing with liveview. And set it to the 2 sec timer, to make sure that you aren't introducing shake when you press the shutter.
That should tell you whether there is a problem with the lens. And if there is, whether simple AF adjustment will sort it out.
Cheers Blythman,Lots of advise for tennis. First things first though. Does it take a sharp shot of a static subject, when sitting on a tripod with SR and OS both switched off? Try when focusing through the viewfinder, and also when focusing with liveview. And set it to the 2 sec timer, to make sure that you aren't introducing shake when you press the shutter.
That should tell you whether there is a problem with the lens. And if there is, whether simple AF adjustment will sort it out.
I will test the above and let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Mike
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 15/07/2015 - 18:12
Daronl wrote:
Since retiring I work as a semi pro sports photographer and after hundreds of gallery, brochure and exhibition submissions this year I have come down to four lenses.
1. For field sports a DA* 60-250 DA * aided and abetted by a 16-50 DA*
2. For indoor court sports, at court side ( no flash permitted) I use a Sigma ART 35mm f1.4 and the 85 mm f1.4 version, both are stunning with incredible low light Capability.
Re Field sports and athletics, I used to use a 50-135 DA* but the 60-250 DA* is simply a better tool and whilst we have all marveled at the IQ of the 50-135 DA*, the bigger lens is as good , some of my exhibition prints using this lens with A K3 are hugely cropped but still printed at very large size without any issues on resolution or sharpness.
As I usually say when the subject of the performance of the 60-250 DA* is mentioned, take a look at the Orangutan portrait in my portfolio,( wide open, hand held in not to good light), it is a lovely lens for sure.
For "individual sports action portraits" I have reached for my f2.8 200mm DA* on occasions which we all know is pretty good.
However the sigma zoom you are using is also a very highly rated and capable piece of glass and frankly if I was choosing just one lens for outdoor then that would definitely be a very high quality option to my 60-250 .
But I find a second wider lens is very necessary too, as sometimes you are right on the touch line or lane side in the Sports field and the wider zoom or prime is useful .
Again Sigma Zooms are more than capable of pro IQ so they are always a less expensive option and I really like the build quality and optics.
Hope this helps
Regards
Daronl
Thanks Daronl,Since retiring I work as a semi pro sports photographer and after hundreds of gallery, brochure and exhibition submissions this year I have come down to four lenses.
1. For field sports a DA* 60-250 DA * aided and abetted by a 16-50 DA*
2. For indoor court sports, at court side ( no flash permitted) I use a Sigma ART 35mm f1.4 and the 85 mm f1.4 version, both are stunning with incredible low light Capability.
Re Field sports and athletics, I used to use a 50-135 DA* but the 60-250 DA* is simply a better tool and whilst we have all marveled at the IQ of the 50-135 DA*, the bigger lens is as good , some of my exhibition prints using this lens with A K3 are hugely cropped but still printed at very large size without any issues on resolution or sharpness.
As I usually say when the subject of the performance of the 60-250 DA* is mentioned, take a look at the Orangutan portrait in my portfolio,( wide open, hand held in not to good light), it is a lovely lens for sure.
For "individual sports action portraits" I have reached for my f2.8 200mm DA* on occasions which we all know is pretty good.
However the sigma zoom you are using is also a very highly rated and capable piece of glass and frankly if I was choosing just one lens for outdoor then that would definitely be a very high quality option to my 60-250 .
But I find a second wider lens is very necessary too, as sometimes you are right on the touch line or lane side in the Sports field and the wider zoom or prime is useful .
Again Sigma Zooms are more than capable of pro IQ so they are always a less expensive option and I really like the build quality and optics.
Hope this helps
Regards
Daronl
After reading up in the new pentax 150-450mm I was thinking I might try to save up for this lens to add to the Sigma I already have.
I guess the problem I have is that I am not right on the sidelines, especially for the indoor tennis, so I am sitting in the dark and the court is lit seperately which I guess makes taking the shot that little more challenging.
I did have a look at the 50-250mm but am thinking of going for something a little more in length to try and get a little closer. I realise that i will have to comprimise the f stop (going from the fixed 2.8 down to something around 5.6) but feel it might be better as opposed to being at the maximum range on the sigma lens when taking shots. Would you say that the 50-250mm will be significanlty better? Or should i pay the extra and go for the 150-450m?
As I am sitting in the stands, I don't use a tripod or monopod so hand hold the camera the entire time (getting arms like Arnie now!).
I think the next lens I get will be the Pentax DA range as from the write ups, they are built with quality in mind (which also means that the price will be higher than the third party lenses by Tamron and Sigma etc.).
Regards,
Mike
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 15/07/2015 - 18:09
I think for something like tennis you may be better off turning off SR completely (camera and lens) and trying faster shutter speeds of not less than 1/300th and maybe try 1/500th or faster just to see what sort of difference that makes to the sharpness.
Either shutter priority or TAV mode and let the ISO take care of itself should work pretty well too, rather than full manual mode. The ISO performance with Pentax is generally pretty good, so let it go up to 1600 and beyond if needed.
Another thing to try if you are following the action is using AFC mode with user defined (centre) focus point and Expanded Area AF. I find that works fairly well for most action shots. Once you have locked on with the centre point then it tracks the action reasonably well. I also find that using the back button AF makes focussing easier than the shutter half press (although it may take a bit of getting used to)[/quote]I will give that a go Percy and see how i get on!
Quite a few tips to try already and I am grateful for all your advice.
When I return from my holiday I will add some pictures taken and you all will probably see straight away where I could be going wrong.
Either shutter priority or TAV mode and let the ISO take care of itself should work pretty well too, rather than full manual mode. The ISO performance with Pentax is generally pretty good, so let it go up to 1600 and beyond if needed.
Another thing to try if you are following the action is using AFC mode with user defined (centre) focus point and Expanded Area AF. I find that works fairly well for most action shots. Once you have locked on with the centre point then it tracks the action reasonably well. I also find that using the back button AF makes focussing easier than the shutter half press (although it may take a bit of getting used to)[/quote]I will give that a go Percy and see how i get on!
Quite a few tips to try already and I am grateful for all your advice.
When I return from my holiday I will add some pictures taken and you all will probably see straight away where I could be going wrong.
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 15/07/2015 - 18:01
Irek wrote:
Sigma is a brilliant to sport
https://www.pentaxuser.com/news/awesome-action-shot-wins-pentax-user-plus-compet...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128922221@N08/albums/72157654827104526/page1
Will have a look at the above links and take in as much as I can Sigma is a brilliant to sport
https://www.pentaxuser.com/news/awesome-action-shot-wins-pentax-user-plus-compet...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128922221@N08/albums/72157654827104526/page1
Awesome pictures! Dare i ask the set-up you were using to take those pictures?
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 15/07/2015 - 09:55
Puggy wrote:
Hi
I haven't used one but the 7Dmk ii is pretty much a camera built with one purpose in mind and that is to "out auto focus" anything else on the market. From all I've read it's not much cop as an all round camera but in that environment with that lens it's going to track moving subjects better than a Pentax of any flavour.
Where you can equal or exceed your friend is better high iso performance and your lens' faster aperture should allow you to shoot shorter exposures. I'd suggest trying a middle ground and using AV with auto iso set say 100-1600 ?
You may find you have less keepers than the canon shooter but the keepers you do have will outshine the IQ by a margin.
As an aside are you shooting raw as plenty of opportunity to freshen up the images, How are you using auto focus? Pick an AF point and stick to it, there's a guide here somewhere to best settings for continuous AF
I'm in a similar dilemma, hoping to have some rare money soon and don't know whether to stick with Pentax or jump ship for something more suitable to shooting motorsport at the price point
HTH
Hi HTH,Hi
I haven't used one but the 7Dmk ii is pretty much a camera built with one purpose in mind and that is to "out auto focus" anything else on the market. From all I've read it's not much cop as an all round camera but in that environment with that lens it's going to track moving subjects better than a Pentax of any flavour.
Where you can equal or exceed your friend is better high iso performance and your lens' faster aperture should allow you to shoot shorter exposures. I'd suggest trying a middle ground and using AV with auto iso set say 100-1600 ?
You may find you have less keepers than the canon shooter but the keepers you do have will outshine the IQ by a margin.
As an aside are you shooting raw as plenty of opportunity to freshen up the images, How are you using auto focus? Pick an AF point and stick to it, there's a guide here somewhere to best settings for continuous AF
I'm in a similar dilemma, hoping to have some rare money soon and don't know whether to stick with Pentax or jump ship for something more suitable to shooting motorsport at the price point
HTH
Thanks again for your comments.
I will try the AV setting as I have only used the manual one and tried to tinker around with the ISO and shutter speed settings. From memory, the IS's i used recently at Wimbledon during the day, were between 200-400 and when the shadows came, it was a bit of a nightmare I think i always try to keep the faster shutter speed to try and 'capture' the moment.
I don't believe i am using RAW but will change that as I have it on the default setting JPEG.
As I have said, i will stick and learn more about the camera before making a drastic switch! Hopefully I won't have too but we shall see Do you know what you may switch too? i believe of all the camera's out there the one perfect one does not exist, if it does, it will cost a bundle I am sure!
Mike
Comment by icemanneo posted on Lenses for sports at 15/07/2015 - 09:55
