What is your view on 'prime' Tamron adaptall lenses? I have 2 cameras, 1 with PK mount and the other with M42 mount, for which I currently only have a 50mm lens, so adaptall would suit me perfectly.
What issues would I likely encounter with the ist d or ist ds?

Thanks

On the Park Cameras website www.parkcameras.com the two cameras are only GPB 100 difference in price now.

Thank you for your comments.

I will keep an eye out for those lenses at my favourite second hand shops (and on ebay)

I like Matt's attitute to experimenting. I will definately do that when I save up enough for a Pentax DSLR until then, more frugal use of Fuji slide film is going to have to do.

Gazen

Hi all,

I have recently acquired a set of extension tubes as I would like to do more macro photography as I don't have the time to do wildlife and landscape photography any more (Try taking a good photograph whilst trying to stop your 2 year old with a magnetic attraction to all things water related from jumping / falling into a lake? But at least the baby can't escape from the buggy... yet )

Any how, back on topic.
What is the effect of extension tubes?
This is what I have noticed so far, for the same distance from lens to subject with and without extension tubes:
Depth of field apears to remain unchanged
The subject is larger in the viewfinder
Minimum focal distance appears to be the same
Loss of 1-2 stops of exposure

What sort of focal length would you normally recommend, about 100mm? I will probably experiment, but I guess a wide angle would give vingetting and a long focal length would still give me the same problem of lack of depth of field and having to be 2 meters from the subject.

Thanks, Gazen

Hi Bobby,

The foggy looking water is created by the motion of the water during the exposure. It is created by keeping the shutter open for a period of time, for example 1/4 second to 3 seconds. This is just a guideline and should not be taken as the absolute truth...experiment.
You will also need something to secure the camera so that it cannot move during the exposure: tripod, beanbag, rucksack, lunch box, wall, pile of stones, or whatever. You may also need something called a neutral density filter or ND filter, as you may see it written. This filter reduces the brightness of the light entering the camera without changing any of the colours.

Set up the camera so that you get the view you want and secure it.
On a camera where you have the option of setting shutter speed, put it in shutter priority mode, (I think Pentax usually uses Tv now as the setting) set the shutter speed to 1 second, for example, half depress the shutter release and the camera should give you either an aperture or an error indicating that this is out of range. If this happens try a slightly shutter speed if the water is fairly fast running, or fix or even hold the ND filter in front of the lens.
Once you are happy that it is going to work, set the camera's self timer, set or hold the filter in place, if you are using one and press the shutter. Hey Presto, you should have romantic flowing water. If it is too misty try a faster shutter speed, if it is not misty enough, try a slower shutter speed.

If you are using a digital compact without the ability to set shutter speed then you may still be able to get the effect by holding an ND filter in front of the lens during the exposure. I don't know what it is called on digiatal compacts but there should also be a setting whereby you can change the exposure value. Try experimenting with that also.
The nice thing about digital is that if you don't like it ...delete it... and try again

Best of luck

As John Riley has said, if there is one near you, join a camera club. The members will always be willing to answer any questions you have, take you out and show you how to do things. Even just looking at thier work can help inspire you.
Nearly all clubs will let you come 2 or 3 times before you have to commit to them, so go and visit a few and see who you are the happiest with.

Some flashes use a high voltage in their trigger circuits and in the infrared strobe trigger (especially the strobe trigger) which can damage the electronics in a camera. I don't know what the maximum allowable voltage is for an *ist, maybe some one else can provide the information.

I use a Centon FH85 with both my Pentax Z1P (dedicted mode) and my Sony digital camera (non dedicated mode) with no problems. The trigger voltage of the flash is 3-4 volts (which is low) according to the following website: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I quite like the Centon flash because the main flash head is swivel, tilt, and zoom so yo can point it just about anywhere 'reasonably' you want, but also there is a small flash on the main body on the flash so you can get straight flash and bounce flash at the same time..useful when you use it on the off camera bracket.

I cannot find new prices for them, maybe they are sold under a different brand name, but I picked mine up second hand for GBP25 including the off camera bracket earlier this year, after I managed to kick my previous flash under a passing car when I accidentally dropped it , and just wanted a cheap replacement.

Hope this helps,
Gazen

I have seen a couple of *ist D's on the second hand market for about GBP500, so half the new price, but like everything else Pentax they are hard to come by and are snapped up pretty quickly.
I am still ruminating in wheter to go for a second hand *ist D and get everything I want, go for the *ist DS, or wait until Pentax brings out something else.
Does anyone have any views on the quality of the images taken by the 2 cameras?

I recently picked up a brand new Tamron 75-300mm auto focus zoom lens from my local camera shop for 90 pounds. I have only shot 1 film so far using it but it seems ok. The only complaint is that it is a bit of a bulky beast, although I believe that their latest model is smaller and lighter.

Just a small thing to add....

'Professional' tripods like the Manfrotto and Gitzo to name two have a 3/8" thread on top of the tripod and you need a head or other adaptor to be able to screw them into the bottom of your P30, which like most (or is it all?) 35mm cameras has a 1/4" thread.

Other manufacturers have heads that come with the tripod, eg Jessops and Velbon and you can mount your camera directly, or with a quick release plate. These can be quite flimsy, so play with the tripod, if you can before you buy it.

Gazen