You don't have to change just because MS no longer offer updates. The system won't magically cease to function.

I'm still running Win 2k Pro for things which actually need Windows, most current hardware still has drivers for it and it's much cleaner than XP.

Does your existing bag have any of the "Sliplock" webbing loops? If so, you can hook an extra Lowepro lens case on the side to carry the 55-300mm. I do this all the time with mine to carry lenses which are too big to fit inside the bag (like the Pentax-F 100-300mm).

The best XP laptops were the ones sold as "Vista Ready". They were adequately specified to run XP and I really hope most people binned the Vista "upgrade" offer!

I'm not going mad then!

I think it was that "How to take good photos" TV series that gave the advice, and it puzzled me hugely for obvious reasons. Given the series was aimed at complete beginners they really should have made it clearer - I wonder how many went out and bought an ND, then wondered why it didn't help?

I'm familiar with the concept and use of ND filters but have one question: How do they improve the exposure balance? From what I understand they simply reduce the level of light entering the lens by a known amount regardless of the subject's brightness.

I realise that you use them to avoid overexposed skies in landscape photos, but how do they do this without rendering the darker foreground landscape underexposed? I could understand it with the graduated ND filters (placing the darkest area over the sky, much as a translucent sun visor along the top of a windscreen) but I've seen advice to use a standard non-graduated ND to get the same effect, which makes no sense at all to me!

Mirror lock-up seems pretty rare on Pentax film bodies in general. I know the KX and K2 had it but I'm not sure which others? I would guess LX and MZ-S but I've never handled either so can't be sure. I do suspect it makes more of a difference on medium format as the mirror has much more mass, so will cause more shake when it flips.

The DSLRs do have it (sort of) in that the mirror flips up as soon as you start the self timer, then the shutter is triggered when the timer runs out.

Yes, I'd say it's equal to the old M 50 f1.7, in fact I think it's the modern equivalent. It's a sharp, fairly fast, standard prime lens at a price most people can stretch to. I prefer it to the old 50mm on digital as it's a more useful focal length and auto focus, as well as offering simpler metering.

I'd just use Tv mode to be honest. It's a bit of a fiddle but in reality not much more of one than using the little control dial on a DSLR (compared to just turning the aperture ring as you would if they'd kept the full KAF2 mount).

You can never go wrong with Lego!

Thing is, the single digit MZ bodies and the *ist seem to fetch quite high prices. I think the OP is after something cheap and cheerful, which the MZ-10 seems to fit.

On a related note: Does anyone know the part numbers for MZ series focusing screens? My MZ-10 one has a few scrapes and looks to be easy to change (clip arrangement much like the MX) but obviously I need to find the right part. I'd rather not buy another body to take the part from as that's just as likely to have the same problem.