ChrisA

Joined: 4th January 2007

All Forum Comments

Topics Created Topics Contributed Forum Comments Photo Comments

All Forum Comments

ChrisA
Don wrote:
distance between the mic and subject could explain the problem..or your software/hardware playing back the video.. read up on "doppler effect"… I have noticed a slight difference in sync when doin a multi cam edit from large auditoriums where one camera at the back, and one at the front are used… it is always preferable to use an audio recorder taking a line feed off the venue's main soundboard for such work.

audacity(free), premier pro and FCPX are all capable of shifting/synching audio..
even in simpler programs like imovie it CAN be done (detach the audio then shift it or add spacer frames)..
Cheers Don... I was about 15 feet from the dancers, and about 30 feet from the speakers.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K-5 video question at 12/12/2013 - 19:19

ChrisA
gartmore wrote:
You can get a free trial of Sony Vegas which will do what you want and I recommend it as an editing package too. A tenth of a second isn't 'a tiny bit'.
Thanks, I'll take a look. It might not even be as much as a tenth - it's too small for me to make a sensible estimate. I've watched it a couple of times more now, and I'm not as convinced now that I'm seeing what I thought I was seeing. It just seems so unlikely...

Comment by ChrisA posted on K-5 video question at 12/12/2013 - 16:36

ChrisA
Has anyone come across a situation where the audio and video are slightly out of sync?

I filmed a post-dance-class demo last night, and the couple teaching are both extremely good dancers (Argentine Tango, if anyone's interested), and it's inconceivable that they would ever be out of time with the music.

I certainly didn't notice anything while I was filming, and was only watching the LCD to make sure they were in shot.

Yet on the AVI file as uploaded, the audio seems a tiny bit behind. By tiny, I mean a tenth of a second or so, and I'm not even convinced that it's a real effect. I've watched it in VLC player, and opened it in Windows Movie Maker (yes, I know.. ), and they're the same.

Anyone seen this? I was very close to the action, and the speakers, far too close for any speed-of-sound effect.

I can't show you the video, unfortunately. Not a very good video, protection of reputation and all that.

As a supplementary question, is there any free software that would let me shift the soundtrack in an AVI file by a very small amount?

Comment by ChrisA posted on K-5 video question at 12/12/2013 - 12:42

ChrisA
Orsolia wrote:
Thank you ChrisA!

I hadn't thought of that!

Would a sledgehammer work?

It did occur to me to borrow my mate's oxy-acetylene torch if all else failed!
I always try to be helpful

As the saying goes, 'Don't force it, get a hammer'.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Stuck battery in my new K-5 II at 12/12/2013 - 12:27

ChrisA
You could bang the camera very hard on the desk and knock it out that way...

Comment by ChrisA posted on Stuck battery in my new K-5 II at 12/12/2013 - 12:22

ChrisA
Crossed-up wrote:
Thinking about where your misty bridge picture was taken, if you remember we all piled back into the Jeep and drove up the valley to the bridge. We were all soaking wet (especially DM who wasn't wearing waterproofs :shock and the the heater was on full blast
That makes sense. Warm Jeep, high humidity, cold lens.

Phew, I don't have to relearn all my Physical Chemistry after all

Comment by ChrisA posted on Using Limiteds in mist & fog at 12/12/2013 - 11:50

ChrisA
cardiff_gareth wrote:
ChrisA wrote:
cardiff_gareth wrote:
...That misting was on the middle lens elements !!
Ok, so I guess you were using the lens for a reasonable length of time outdoors (allowing the camera and lens to cool), then brought it indoors.

Then you zoomed the lens to the long end, sucking in a big gulp of warm moist air from the house. Warm air, cold surface, hence condensation.

Then once the lens' internals had warmed up to room temperature, the condensation would evaporate, and would find its way out.

Nothing to worry about.
Nope! It was taken whilst at the Elan Valley, no where near such luxuries as indoors!! To get rid of the misting I had to wait until we went to a cafe so I could pop the lens off and work the zoom back and forth to pump air onto the optics until it eventually cleared!

It did lash it down and then some more !!
Well there's an example of a beautiful theory ruined by an ugly fact

I'm now even more curious - I'd have thought if it misted up inside while you were out, the innards must have been cooling down, and then been subjected to an increase in humidity.

Any phase-change specialists out there able to tell me what I'm missing here?

Comment by ChrisA posted on Using Limiteds in mist & fog at 11/12/2013 - 23:49

ChrisA
cardiff_gareth wrote:
My latest image in the PPG thread of path to nowhere was taken with the 18-55mm WR in mild adverse weather . That misting was on the middle lens elements !!
Ok, so I guess you were using the lens for a reasonable length of time outdoors (allowing the camera and lens to cool), then brought it indoors.

Then you zoomed the lens to the long end, sucking in a big gulp of warm moist air from the house. Warm air, cold surface, hence condensation.

Then once the lens' internals had warmed up to room temperature, the condensation would evaporate, and would find its way out.

Nothing to worry about.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Using Limiteds in mist & fog at 11/12/2013 - 15:21

ChrisA
Weather sealed lenses aren't airtight, so I'd doubt very much that the weather sealing can completely prevent ingress of water droplets the size you get in mist. So weather-sealed lenses probably aren't any more protected against mist than non-weather-sealed lenses. That said, the fact that the air gaps are small is going to prevent most of anything getting in, sealed or not.

Secondly, the mist is only a potential problem if it adheres to the inner surfaces and then doesn't have a chance to evaporate when you bring it back indoors.

So with any lens, weather-sealed or not, you don't want to take it from a high-humidity environment to a low one, and then seal it inside a bag - leave it where the air can circulate.

Conversely, if you've been using the lens outside in very cold dry air, and then bring it into a warm, moist house, moisture from the air will condense on the lens surfaces, inside and out.

Again, the answer is to leave the camera and lens somewhere where the air can circulate - any condensation will evaporate as the gear approaches room temperature provided the air can get to it.

To prevent (most of) the condensation in the first place, put the camera in a sealed freezer bag before bringing it indoors, and then take it out once it's reached room temperature.

In practice, mist is a non-issue, as Ken says. Normal good practice (ie, don't leave lenses sealed into moist environments) is all that's needed.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Using Limiteds in mist & fog at 11/12/2013 - 12:50

ChrisA
cabstar wrote:
I also think if sports was important to Pentax they would have brought out a 2.8 70-200mm lens by now.
I'm curious about this 70-200 range. It was common in 35mm days, but the equivalent range on APS-C is about 50-135 which we have, and it is F2.8.

So why is 70-200 the 'sports' benchmark now?

Comment by ChrisA posted on K-5iis + DA*50-135 fast avtion sports shots at 10/12/2013 - 16:59

Proudly supporting Pentax User

Samsung Logo Asahi Pentax Logo