Although you can set the sharpening amount to the mid point of the +/- range available in the camera's JPG settings, I'm not sure it follows that that is the same as actually switching sharpening off.

I don't know for a fact, but I'd guess that the only way to guarantee that the camera has done no sharpening at all is use the RAW file.

When I get a chance I'll shoot a few images in RAW+ and see if there's an obvious difference.

Quite right, thanks for picking me up on that. You get the green hexagon to confirm when the camera thinks it's focused, I meant. And yes, absolutely, centre spot all the way.

The green hexagon is no use for where you're focused, since it's completely out of the frame

http://focustestchart.com/

Printed it out (just the page with the A4 chart on), stuck it on a piece of A4 card, put it on the floor.

Camera on a tripod, pointing at the chart. Ages and ages trying to get it lined up straight, possibly not yet successfully. Remote 3s release.

The idea is you point the camera at the bit in the middle where it says "focus here". You get the green hexagon to confirm where the camera thinks it's focused. Then you take the shot with the lens wide open, and see where it was actually in focus.

No disrespect to FT, but I think you're being way too modest. Your one from yesterday was the best I've seen by far in well over four years here. It wasn't the highest magnification, but the detail and fineness of the lines made me literally gasp.

You seem to have removed it now, but it's precisely because it was so clearly in a different class that I misinterpreted your purpose in posting it.

Yes, that is what I understood from your suggestion. I'm trying it now, but my eyes are going a bit funny now that I've been squinting at the alignment and pointing the centre of the field at the right spot for so long

And the light's starting to go now, too, and I certainly don't want to confuse the issue by changing to tungsten! I'll have another go tomorrow, I think - watch this space!

Thanks for your suggestions.

Mmmm. I must admit, I would have thought that any back- or front-focus would be in the same sense both sides, if the sensor itself is really perpendicular to the lens axis.

I'll try a very skewed one.

Hmm. Maybe I misinterpreted it. I'll do what you say.

For comparison, here's the same lens on the K10D:

[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t244/chris5gd/Problems/IMGP3158-1.jpg[/IMG]

If there's a difference between left and right, it's clearly a lot less pronounced.

Well, I've been doing a lot of fiddling about And I thought I had it pretty close. There are a couple of bobbles in the paper where it didn't stick to the card I've mounted it on, but I don't think they affect it where it counts.

Do you think any lack of square accounts for the differnce between left and right?

Thanks to Amin for his suggestion. On the K-5 it seems it goes up to +/- 10.

I've done it a bit more carefully now, and I'm quite troubled.

Here it is, pre-adjustment:

[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t244/chris5gd/Problems/IMGP0901.jpg[/IMG]

Here it is again, +10 dialled in and saved:

[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t244/chris5gd/Problems/IMGP0903.jpg[/IMG]

Both of these are the whole width of the frame.

Notice anything funny?