Two towers

A good result....I'm a fan of Photomatix but I see that your results using SNS HDR look more natural. Is SNS HDR more reliable than Photomatix? Can you or anyone else help me in this matter?

I've used SNS Home for years. When I first tried HDR it was with Photoshop's built-in 'Merge to HDR Pro'. I was very disappointed. I considered Photomatix but at the time it was quite expensive and I didn't like the look of the results I'd seen (I've since been told it's possible to obtain more subtle effects using less severe settings). The main reason I went for SNS is it's capable of producing quite realistic looking images. Having said that, over time I notice I've become more agressive and less realistic in my processing!

SNS-HDR Home costs 30 Euro. You can trial it for free, just they'll be a watermark on saved files. I'm still using version 1.4.22. The current version is 2.2.2. No doubt it's better, just I haven't invested the time to look at all the new options.

https://www.sns-hdr.com/

Alternatively, it is possible to obtain very respectable HDR using layers in Photoshop in 16-bit mode. Load each exposure as a layer and use levels or exposure adjustments, clipped to each layer, to balance the exposures. Then use layer masks to reveal shadows from the long exposure, the highlights from the shortest exposure and the other exposures for the levels in between. Then apply a curve to make it look right. The results are much the same as you'd get with neutral HDR software, just it takes more effort than clicking a few buttons!

My workflow is:-

1) Adobe Camera Raw
Adjust all files to same white balance, lens corrections, cropping etc but otherwise try to maintain default neutral settings. On the longest exposure, lift the black levels if they are clipped. On the shortest exposure drop the highlights/whites if they are blown. Output as 16-bit TIFF files in ProPhoto RGB colour space.
(if you prefer you may find it quicker to do all this via Lightroom, syncing the settings) .

2) Load the 16-bit TIFF files into SNS and tweak the settings to taste. I leave the black level and sharpening at 0.

3) Output the HDR from SNS as a 16-bit TIFF file in ProPhoto RGB colour space.

4) Load the HDR file into Photoshop and edit in 16-bit mode in ProPhoto RGB colour space.

5) Proof in the output colour space with the gamut warning enabled. Apply adjustments to reduce/eliminate the out of gamut colours whilst trying to maintain visual impact.

6) Convert to the output profile.

7) Save. Note if you're saving to JPEG you might prefer to convert to 8-bit mode first as the conversion is applied with dithering (provided you've enabled it in the colour settings conversion options). If you save JPEG directly from 16-bit mode no dithering is applied. (The difference would be very hard to spot on most images but can slightly improve shadows and gentle graduations).

I think it's worth repeating what Daniel Bridge told me when I started HDR with the K-5 (and possibly other Pentax models). By default, when auto bracketing in manual mode the exposure bracketing is performed by varying both the aperture and exposure times. For HDR you normally want the aperture to remain constant and bracket on exposure time only.

This problem can be overcome by going into E-Dial Programming and assigning the green button in M mode to TvSHIFT from the default of PLINE. In manual mode auto bracketing is now performed by exposure time only.

I don't believe Pentax document this to users and it's not exactly intuitive!

Thank you all for useful tips

Great shot of the new and the old

A really striking image.

Congratulations on POTW

Regards

Karlo

Lovely work as ever Mr WaywardCharlie.
Congratulations on POTW

A well deserved POTW

I've only just noticed the POTW thing. I feel honoured but somewhat surprised. I guess it must have been my turn!

Not your turn. We clubbed together and paid admin a shed load of money

A very good choice for POTW. This is superb.
David