X-Sync help
Posted 10/06/2012 - 09:15
Link
If this is an older flash then it might not be compatible because of polarity differences.
You really need a modern flashgun such as the Pentax ones or one of the alternatives on the market. I believe Metz are quite well thought of.
You really need a modern flashgun such as the Pentax ones or one of the alternatives on the market. I believe Metz are quite well thought of.
Best regards, John
Posted 10/06/2012 - 09:54
Link
260V GUN! Surprised the camera didn't melt
Stick to below 12V
Buy whatever Pentax flash you can afford on ebay and bin or sell
the Hanimex... only worth about £7.
Stick to below 12V
Buy whatever Pentax flash you can afford on ebay and bin or sell
the Hanimex... only worth about £7.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 10/06/2012 - 12:06 - Helpful Comment
Link
This thread got me intrigued - I do very little with a flash. It will be either with an old AF240Z in the hot shoe, or an even older Vivitar connected via the PC socket. So my understanding of pre hot-shoe flashes is that when they are charged, all the camera does is to close the circuit across the PC cable, which fires a thyristor, which dumps the charge in a capacitor into the lamp. All the test button does is to close the circuit (but at the other end of the cable).
So, on a K20, flash in the shoe, cable into the PC socket, dial set to X, gun set to same ISO setting as the camera, slider on the gun set to bracket the distance I will be taking at (so that the auto-flash setting will work) and get snapping.
I have just done this. There is enough light for the autofocus to work, and the auto-flash takes care of the power, and I get a result. Every time!
But now, one problem is eliminated. I picked up the Vivitar flash in a camera bag full of goodies - but there was no PC cord. I liked the Vivitar because it has a leverlock into the shoe (much easier when you are trying to cope with one or two walking sticks at the same time) and a standard PC cord will not fit. The end that goes into the gun is very short. Needless to say I could not find one anywhere. So I clipped the cable off an old (and totally worthless) capless bulb type gun (bought in Germany in the early '60s) and soldered the ends onto the two relevant contacts inside the Vivitar. Result: a permanently fitted PC cord.
So, reading the original post from Chris, I ask if the PC cord is a good fit into the PC socket on the Samsung body. Further, if it also plugs in to his Hanimex gun, is the socket and plug end totally clean.
He has established that the gun works, he has established that the PC socket works, all that remains is the cable between them.
Geoff
So, on a K20, flash in the shoe, cable into the PC socket, dial set to X, gun set to same ISO setting as the camera, slider on the gun set to bracket the distance I will be taking at (so that the auto-flash setting will work) and get snapping.
I have just done this. There is enough light for the autofocus to work, and the auto-flash takes care of the power, and I get a result. Every time!
But now, one problem is eliminated. I picked up the Vivitar flash in a camera bag full of goodies - but there was no PC cord. I liked the Vivitar because it has a leverlock into the shoe (much easier when you are trying to cope with one or two walking sticks at the same time) and a standard PC cord will not fit. The end that goes into the gun is very short. Needless to say I could not find one anywhere. So I clipped the cable off an old (and totally worthless) capless bulb type gun (bought in Germany in the early '60s) and soldered the ends onto the two relevant contacts inside the Vivitar. Result: a permanently fitted PC cord.
So, reading the original post from Chris, I ask if the PC cord is a good fit into the PC socket on the Samsung body. Further, if it also plugs in to his Hanimex gun, is the socket and plug end totally clean.
He has established that the gun works, he has established that the PC socket works, all that remains is the cable between them.
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
Posted 10/06/2012 - 12:15 - Helpful Comment
Link
One potentially serious problem, as mentioned, is the trigger voltage of the gun. If this is too high it can damage the electronics in modern cameras.
Flash units operate with very high voltages, so due care should be taken.
Flash units operate with very high voltages, so due care should be taken.
Best regards, John
Posted 10/06/2012 - 15:19 - Helpful Comment
Link
And this gets more and more interesting.
There is quite a lot on the 'net about trigger voltages, and how to measure them accurately, and reading the link provided by DOIK, above, shows that two different people can get readings that vary by up to a factor of 8.
One piece of advice that turned up more than once is to use a good multimeter, and avoid anything that shows more than 10 volts across the two conductors of a PC cord (another source used a value of 12 volts, but you get the idea).
My nice little Vivitar is just under 11, or 14,5 volts, (depending on the tester) on that link, so I guess I've been lucky. Am I going to push my luck again? What do you think?
Chris, you might want to think about this as well - and then take Algi's advice.
Geoff
There is quite a lot on the 'net about trigger voltages, and how to measure them accurately, and reading the link provided by DOIK, above, shows that two different people can get readings that vary by up to a factor of 8.
One piece of advice that turned up more than once is to use a good multimeter, and avoid anything that shows more than 10 volts across the two conductors of a PC cord (another source used a value of 12 volts, but you get the idea).
My nice little Vivitar is just under 11, or 14,5 volts, (depending on the tester) on that link, so I guess I've been lucky. Am I going to push my luck again? What do you think?
Chris, you might want to think about this as well - and then take Algi's advice.
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
Posted 10/06/2012 - 18:11
Link
14.5 volts would be fine I am sure Geoff. I don't think 12v is an official maximum voltage given by Pentax - it's just an educated guess with a healthy dose of 'precautionary principle'. I would guess the actual maximum voltage that can be handled is quite a bit higher... for example Nikon can take up to 250v, not that I would suggest anyone uses a 100v+ flash on their Pentax! As a precautionary measure I would not go over 25v - as someone on the other forum stated:
Quote:
Pentax is ISO 10330:2002 compliant. That sets a 25 volt standard on the flash voltage.
Pentax is ISO 10330:2002 compliant. That sets a 25 volt standard on the flash voltage.
Posted 10/06/2012 - 18:18
Link
It's unclear (to me) if Pentax has ever revealed the official spec for the hotshoe and the PC socket. It's known that Pentax cameras can take more than Canon ones. There is somebody on pentaxforums who claims to have used a 100V flash on (if I'm not mistaken) a K10D without ill effects, so you might be lucky that 260V can be handled.
If you haven't fried your camera yet (assuming 260V is correct), an option can be the Wein safesync that reduces the trigger voltage; it slots in the hotshoe and has an PC contact.
Some RF triggers also provide the functionality, but not sure about the makes.
Having said all this, I'll second the suggestion to get another flash.
PS
Damage might have been done that might not be obvious at first. It can however show after sometime so if you get funny behavior, you know the cause.
If you haven't fried your camera yet (assuming 260V is correct), an option can be the Wein safesync that reduces the trigger voltage; it slots in the hotshoe and has an PC contact.
Some RF triggers also provide the functionality, but not sure about the makes.
Having said all this, I'll second the suggestion to get another flash.
PS
Damage might have been done that might not be obvious at first. It can however show after sometime so if you get funny behavior, you know the cause.
Pentax K10D + Vivitar 55/2.8 macro + Super Takumar 55/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 85/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 135/3.5 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 200/4 + Super Takumar 300/4
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
Posted 10/06/2012 - 19:02
Link
Wow I didn't expect to get this many replies.
It is interesting about the voltage, I have definitely resigned that flash now, even though I have been using it on and off all day! Something that made a difference was removing my grip. It seemed to work after that, so I thought it might be because I had the camera set to use the grip battery first, but with the grip back on and camera set to use the camera battery first, it still wouldn't work. I have never heard anything about voltages before when it comes to flash and I will be going back to Bradford Camera Exchange and asking why they gave me duff advice. I do have a wireless trigger system and one of the receivers has an X-Sync port on, so would it be useful to try using that? They're cheapish, £50, so I am not sure if the voltage issue will burn them up?
Is it safe to use my studio flash via the X-Sync port? They're Lastolites and I have only had them a year.
I do have a Jessops flash gun, which it itself is dodgy and temperamental, although on just testing now, it seemed to be working off TTL, something it rarely does. I really cannot afford another flash gun, since I rarely use them at weddings (this next one is at the registry office that is dark and dingy). I am a low budget wedding photographer (I prefer to be up on a hill somewhere shooting landscapes) so even one wedding wont pay for a new flash. Plus I have just spent all of my savings on a new motorbike, I will be eating pasta for the next two weeks because I cant even afford food!
Once again, thanks for the replies!
It is interesting about the voltage, I have definitely resigned that flash now, even though I have been using it on and off all day! Something that made a difference was removing my grip. It seemed to work after that, so I thought it might be because I had the camera set to use the grip battery first, but with the grip back on and camera set to use the camera battery first, it still wouldn't work. I have never heard anything about voltages before when it comes to flash and I will be going back to Bradford Camera Exchange and asking why they gave me duff advice. I do have a wireless trigger system and one of the receivers has an X-Sync port on, so would it be useful to try using that? They're cheapish, £50, so I am not sure if the voltage issue will burn them up?
Is it safe to use my studio flash via the X-Sync port? They're Lastolites and I have only had them a year.
I do have a Jessops flash gun, which it itself is dodgy and temperamental, although on just testing now, it seemed to be working off TTL, something it rarely does. I really cannot afford another flash gun, since I rarely use them at weddings (this next one is at the registry office that is dark and dingy). I am a low budget wedding photographer (I prefer to be up on a hill somewhere shooting landscapes) so even one wedding wont pay for a new flash. Plus I have just spent all of my savings on a new motorbike, I will be eating pasta for the next two weeks because I cant even afford food!
Once again, thanks for the replies!
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18 posts
16 years
Bradford,
West Yorkshire
I have a problem I need some help with. It is a little bit complicated so I will try my best to describe the issue.
I have a Samsung GX-20 (apparently it is effectively a K20D) and I use a bracket flash with it, Hanimex 550 to be exact. I connect it to my camera with the X-Sync cable. All of a sudden it will not fire, infact it will fire randomly a couple of times but then wont at all.
The bracket flash fires from a film camera every time without fail.
I thought it would be my X-Sync port so I tried my home studio flash from it and it fired fine multiple times.
So I thought it could be my settings, I have tried it in Manual and X mode on the camera but neither seems to make a difference. On Manual I am on 125/9.5 and have tried it on 90/8 60/4.5 and quite a few others to no avail. On X I am stuck to 180.
The batteries are fully charged and the flash will fire if I press the test button.
I have a wedding in 20 days and I am actually shitting myself now because the hot shoe flash I have is very unreliable.
Hope someone can help,
Chris.