Who calibrates their screen
There are kits so if you buy a calibration tool for your monitor and printer you get also the things needed to make a colour profile for your camera.
You need to shoot a colour card and from that you make a colour profile, they are quite cheap I believe so worth the extra money in my eyes.
So you've a camera that capture the colours correctly, and you then have a screen that shows the colours your camera capture corretly and a printer that prints the colours correct as well. So going through the whole cycle the print should have the same colour as the real product.
Only if you can archive that I think it's worth to get a calibration tool, or else you'll always have a weak link in the cycle.
So you've a camera that capture the colours correctly, and you then have a screen that shows the colours your camera capture corretly and a printer that prints the colours correct as well. So going through the whole cycle the print should have the same colour as the real product.
Only if you can archive that I think it's worth to get a calibration tool, or else you'll always have a weak link in the cycle.
Your comments are perhaps valid if talking about home printing but if sending prints to a lab/online print company it's important to have confidence that your images are as you hope...the internet is full of complaints from people critising labs etc for poor quality prints when in many cases its actually their own workflow that's at fault
Considering how much people spend on cameras/lenses etc etc the costs of a decent calibration device is relatively insignificant and will definitely help make sure you reap the full benefits of all that cash spend on equipment !!
Simon
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At home you've full controll so I'll keep doing it at home for that simple reason.
Also some users don't even have a decent monitor, I'm probable one of the few still working an a CRT. I'm still looking for a wide screen HD CRT but didn't found one so far.
I also just found what seems a good priting shop in Den Haag so will test them maybe. I hope they have some interaction with you so that you can first watch the print on a screen before they print it, they are decent in price with their pro-prints so we will wait and see.
Your comments are perhaps valid if talking about home printing but if sending prints to a lab/online print company it's important to have confidence that your images are as you hope...the internet is full of complaints from people critising labs etc for poor quality prints when in many cases its actually their own workflow that's at fault
Considering how much people spend on cameras/lenses etc etc the costs of a decent calibration device is relatively insignificant and will definitely help make sure you reap the full benefits of all that cash spend on equipment
Simon you are spot on and this is the main reason I calibrate. I started to write something regarding printing labs then I read your comment.
It's even more important that I calibrate both my PC and my laptop as I have a professional printer (Olmec 1000) that I take to events, this has to be calibrated as well. With all these calibrated I know that I will get the true colour.
Paul
Since I became concerned that my colours were wrong, I have done two things to correct the problem:
1. Bought a Huey and used it
2. Bought a PVA based monitor
If I could afford to do one of the above but not both, I'd take the monitor every time. The Huey basically just made my old TN panel even worse, everything on screen looked green and the prints came out magenta. The PVA panel (an HP 1955) is darned near spot on out of the box, with the only obvious change on calibrating being to drop the brightness a little. Compared to prints off my HP printer or from Dlab7, the HP screen looks a little bright as you might expect from a backlit medium but is otherwise spot on. It is the single best piece of photography equipment I have bought since I got my first DSLR.
The colours look OK to me, and prints returned from my online service look as expected.
So why should I spend a lot of time and money on calibrating tools?
Terry
K20D, Optio I10, DA 18-55 1:3.5-5.6 AL II, A 1:1.7/50, D FA 1:2.8/100 Macro, Sigma 70-300 1:4-5.6 APO DG Macro, Pentax AF 360FGZ
About 3 years ago we bought a new TV and there were only two CRT's left in the store. I still bought the CRT because at that price level there wasn't a single LCD which came close.
For my PC I first switched a couple of years ago to a TFT display only to find that it was crap.
I then started using my CRT again (wonderfull IIyama visionmaster pro 450).
The problem is that on my desk the display is to close to your eyes so they start hurting after a while. It took me hours and hours to search for a affordable TFT with a good panel (S-IPS) and finally I settled for my current NEX 20WGX2pro which is a 20" 16:10 panel with a 1650x1050 resolution.
Pentax Lenses: DA16-45|DA50-200|50A 1.7
Tamron Lenses: 28-200
Takumar Lenses: SMC 55 1.8
Sigma Lenses: EX DG 50-500 'Bigma'|EX 50mm Macro
Flashes: Metz 58 AF-1|Samsung SEF-36PZF|Pentax AF-220T
I think I wait till the leds, laser, fed or sed screens come to the market for the right price. I think I will skip compeletly TFT.
ps I just read that the FED research is completely stopped
Laser tv is still alive though you can buy one if you want, the Mitsubishi LaserVue TV $6,999.
Laser tv can produce 90% of the colors visible to the human eye, sounds good enough to me.
LED backlight combined with 5 or 6 colour LCD displays.
Current displays have 3 colours per pixel the new generations will feature 5 or 6.
In the 5 colour displays they have added yellow and magenta because those are the two most difficult colours to reproduce on a display.
I don't know which colour is added in the 6 colour LCD panel
Pentax Lenses: DA16-45|DA50-200|50A 1.7
Tamron Lenses: 28-200
Takumar Lenses: SMC 55 1.8
Sigma Lenses: EX DG 50-500 'Bigma'|EX 50mm Macro
Flashes: Metz 58 AF-1|Samsung SEF-36PZF|Pentax AF-220T
Lets see what the future will bring, my CRT is still running fine ^^
one thing to be aware of too is that not all PC monitors are equal, the cheaper TN panels don't display colours particularly accurately, IPS, S-IPS, PVA are a better option
IPS/PVA pannels are much better for colour work by definition, but still there will be worse and better ones.
Another thing wort to mention is if you are doing "hardware calibration", so changing stuff in monitor's LUT table, TN's usually have a 6-bit per color LUT, it means that posterization will happen even more offten, typical IPS/PVA may have 8-bit, good ones have 10 or even 12 bit (per colour) LUT, as well as good ones may be pre-calibrated (linear) in factory, have you ever wondered why good Eizo/NEC costs much more than others, that is part of the answer.
*(three letter acronyms)
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
One day I'll look up what all these TLAs* mean...
*(three letter acronyms)
TFT Thin-film transistor
TN twisted nematic
IPS in-plane switching
MVA multi-domain vertical alignment
PVA patterned vertical alignment
FED field emission display
SED surface-conduction electron-emitter display
LUT Lookup table
Hmmm I don't think it's very usefull Womble
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2106 posts
18 years
Mold,
North Wales
simon
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