Which extra bits to buy?

Almost anywhere, if you like the colour grey.

OK, OK, I was trying to differentiate between plain/grad filters and effect filters like starburst etc.

Most things have been covered that I would have listed (extra battery, spare cards, bag, tripod) but in addition I'd like to add the humble remote control. I've got a cheapie wired version from eBay and from a cost vs usefulness perspective I'd say it was the best six quid I've spent - I use it almost daily.

Good point... cheapies can be excellent. In my case the best £9 I spent was on a wrist strap.

Now never off the camera, I posted some pics of it in use here.

here is a snapshot of my grey card. it folds up.
I use it not only to find my mid tones, but to set white balance, check where my midtones fall on a scale (what zone my midtones land on to get the exposure to the right of the histogram).
once in post (aperture for me) I can set my white, black and grey points, color balance, check for dust spots and heal them, then Lift those settings and Stamp those adjustments to all the images shot in that sequence (1 image or a thousand) and fix all my images at once.

Hi Dan,
To be able to place a part of a scene( say shadow area with detail) in zone 3, you have to know a reference point. This is zone 5. ( 18% neutral Grey)
The same point all the camera or handhold light meters ( before the matrix era) were calibrated to. The zone system was invented as a way to visualize the outcome of a print, before actually pressing the shutter release.
HIH,
Martin.

Thanks for all the replies and for welcoming me here. I’m not really just starting out in photography, but I’m certainly not an expert. My dad has always been interested, so I’ve always had exposure - sorry, bit of a pun. I got an ME Super in the mid-eighties, which I used until about the end of the nineties. After a gap I started taking pictures again with a digital point and shoot, but have got increasingly frustrated at not being in control, and not having an SLR viewfinder. As my other half is also a keen photographer and is in the same boat, getting ourselves an SLR seemed like the right choice. If it goes well having one each is probably going to seem like the better choice…

Unlocker suggests getting the kit lens, but also I’ll regret not getting a DA* earlier. Well, my plan is to start with a DA* lens for several reasons. Firstly, as he suggested, I’ll want one anyway, so I might as start with one. Secondly, I’m a regular hillwalker, and would prefer everything to be weather proof. Thirdly, I’m off to Mongolia on holiday in August, which is likely to be pretty dusty. Having seen how badly non-weatherproof SLR’s faired in the Sahara a couple of years ago, it seems wise to get something with a chance of surviving.

I’m based in Aberdeen, which only has two camera shops - or one and Jessops depending on how you look at it. Neither stock Pentax, so I’m out of luck locally. Aberdeen’s loss could be Watford’s gain.

All this grey card stuff seems intriguing, but I think I’ll have to look into it later. I’ll learn how to use the camera a bit first.

I’ve used a polariser quite a lot on my film SLR, so I’d been wondering whether I should get one. I must admit, though, I was used to a linear polariser, which obviously gives more control. They’re not meant to work with digital, although some people say they’ve not had problems. I suspect I’d be better off trying a circular one before I buy somehow.

Remote control is a good idea. I’ve used the one for my point and shoot quite a lot. I had wondered if the same remote would fire the K20D. Do infra red remotes generally work across different makes and models?

Robert.

You might get lucky, the only way to find out is to try. Some found that certain Sony TV/DVD remotes would trigger a K10D and there are various suggestions of similar results dotted around the 'net. Set your new camera to remote shooting mode and aim every control at your disposal at it while pressing each button in turn - if none of them work then eBay will turn up 1001 dedicated units for you. Well worth the money IMHO.

The difference between linear & circular polarizers has nothing to do with digital SLR's. Circular polarizers can 'confuse' some AF systems, film or digital. I've never had a problem, except that I noticed some 'ghosting' in some shots I took at the weekend using a Sigma EX DG 180mm Macro lens and a CP filter. That's probably more to do with light reflections between glass surfaces more than anything else.

Try a grip if you can, some hate it, others like myself love it. Main advantages for me are:-

Spare memory card always stored safely in the grip

Small IR Pentax remote always stored in the grip

Double the battery life as it will automatically swap between the 2 (battery purchased seperately)

Extra weight helps to balance out heavier lenses

Just feels a lot more substantial and better to hold


Will probably be getting a K20D sooner than expected now, buying the grip with it at the same time will be the first compulsory purchase!

A spare battery from Microglobe £29.99 and as many 8gb sd extreme cards as you feel you need £28.99 with FREE p&p from AMAZON

Spare batteries are only a fiver @ 7dayshop!

I thought the microglobe ones were genuine so to get them for £29.99 is a bargain Obviously if not genuine its another story
Is there a compatibility issue using the copy batteries or not. I know that there is a problem with the NIKON D80 and maybe others when using copy batteries

If we are talking about the Minolta batteries, my view is that they are NOT copy batteries. I think they are both made in the same factory in the same way, but the Pentax ones are branded with the Pentax name.

Edit: Just checked. The 7 day shop battery says it is Minolta-compatible. So it may not be identical to the Pentax one.

G

Thanks again for the replies. In the end I decided to not go for a polarizer at this stage but I did get the infra red remote and a spare battery, plus one of those sport optics straps people mentioned earlier in the year.

Thanks Mannesty for the information about the polarizer interfering with auto focus - I'd obviously got the wrong end of the stick when talking to someone about it.

I thought a bit about the grip, but as the camera will be used in the hills quite a lot I couldn't face any extra weight. If my other half and I get fed up with sharing a camera we may get a second body and get a grip with that one.

Right, just got to get back to learning how a K20D works...

Robert.