Which autofocus are you using?
Posted 09/06/2009 - 09:53
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For skiing I would use manual focus. Prefocus on a spot then wait for the skier to arrive there. As much as anything it forces you to compose the picture in your head, rather than machine-gunning and hoping.
Posted 09/06/2009 - 09:55
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I tried to use continuous focus and continuous shooting, it worked pretty well but I think in some bad pictures the problem was in the old Sigma 70-300 APO lens.
Posted 09/06/2009 - 09:55
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Mine tends to be used in the manual selection mode. I have my AF set to trigger via the AF button only (not on half-press of the shutter) so I compose in the viewfinder, use my thumb to select the appropriate AF point and then press the AF button. Works well for me anyway!
I don't do skiing or bird photography but I do sometimes do some motorsport; with that I tend to predict where the car's going to be and then pre-focus (often manually) so all I have to do is then hit the shutter at the right time.
I don't do skiing or bird photography but I do sometimes do some motorsport; with that I tend to predict where the car's going to be and then pre-focus (often manually) so all I have to do is then hit the shutter at the right time.
Joining the Q
Posted 09/06/2009 - 10:05
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Ohawa wrote:
I tried to use continuous focus and continuous shooting, it worked pretty well but I think in some bad pictures the problem was in the old Sigma 70-300 APO lens.
You can get good results this way but it's pretty hit and miss. The great thing about the prefocus/manual focus technique is it's an easy thing to practice! Find a road with a bend and prefocus, then as a car comes around try and keep it in focus manually. It might sound odd, but remember that the camera has no idea which way the car is moving so has to guess how to focus whereas you know exactly where it will go. Once you have done this you will instinctivly know how far to move the focus ring for each series of shots in that location.
I tried to use continuous focus and continuous shooting, it worked pretty well but I think in some bad pictures the problem was in the old Sigma 70-300 APO lens.
Posted 09/06/2009 - 12:18
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A habit from my film camera days (I still use the MZ5n) I use centre, half press shutter to lock on what I want in focus and then recompose. If I am using predictive focusing (guessing where a moving object will be) I focus on that point and then recompose and wait for the object to come into view.
I do use Automatic selection occasionally but only for birds in flight and, like you, I do find it a bit hit and miss.
I do use Automatic selection occasionally but only for birds in flight and, like you, I do find it a bit hit and miss.
Bodies: K5IIs, K7, MZ5n, LX, MV
Lenses: DA*16-50, DA18-55WR, DA18-135, DAL35, M50 F2, A50 f1.4, FA50 f1.4, DA*50-135, DA55-300, Tamron 70-300, DFA 100 WR Macro, M135 f3.5, Sigma 120-400 APO DG HSM, Tokina 500 f8.0
Flash: Metz 58, Metz 48
Accessories: BG4, Pentax right angle finder, Pentax mirror adaptor lens, O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe
Auto 110 System: Auto 110, Winder, 18mm, 24mm, 50mm, 70mm, 20-40mm, AF100P, 1.7x telecon
Lenses: DA*16-50, DA18-55WR, DA18-135, DAL35, M50 F2, A50 f1.4, FA50 f1.4, DA*50-135, DA55-300, Tamron 70-300, DFA 100 WR Macro, M135 f3.5, Sigma 120-400 APO DG HSM, Tokina 500 f8.0
Flash: Metz 58, Metz 48
Accessories: BG4, Pentax right angle finder, Pentax mirror adaptor lens, O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe
Auto 110 System: Auto 110, Winder, 18mm, 24mm, 50mm, 70mm, 20-40mm, AF100P, 1.7x telecon
Posted 09/06/2009 - 14:12
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Okay I will probably try the pre-focus and then burst shoot anyway because you never know. And it is very difficult to predict bird's movements - but I guess some experience will help here, too!
Manual selection is quite slow if taking action photos of kids and people. Then I try to focus manually or centre spot.
I still use MZ-5n too and there I used AF only exceptionally and if, then centre spot.
I also use the method of focusing and recomposing and I like it quite a lot.
Manual selection is quite slow if taking action photos of kids and people. Then I try to focus manually or centre spot.
I still use MZ-5n too and there I used AF only exceptionally and if, then centre spot.
I also use the method of focusing and recomposing and I like it quite a lot.
Posted 09/06/2009 - 15:35
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Virtually always centre spot.
Regards, Tom
K-1ii,K-3iii's.
SMC PENTAX-F 1:2.8 28mm, HD Pentax-D FA* 1:1.4 50mm SDM AW,
SMC PENTAX-D FA MACRO 1:2.8 100mm WR,
SMC PENTAX-DA* 1:4 300mm ED [IF] SDM,
SMC PENTAX-FA* 1:4 600mm IF & ED,
HD PENTAX -DA 1.4x AW AF REAR CONVERTER,
Pentax Photo Gallery
K-1ii,K-3iii's.
SMC PENTAX-F 1:2.8 28mm, HD Pentax-D FA* 1:1.4 50mm SDM AW,
SMC PENTAX-D FA MACRO 1:2.8 100mm WR,
SMC PENTAX-DA* 1:4 300mm ED [IF] SDM,
SMC PENTAX-FA* 1:4 600mm IF & ED,
HD PENTAX -DA 1.4x AW AF REAR CONVERTER,
Pentax Photo Gallery
Posted 09/06/2009 - 16:04
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Centre spot with lock on half press of shutter release. Any difficult subjects and macro - manual focus.
Best regards, John
Posted 09/06/2009 - 16:07
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I use all three but mostly centre
Posted 09/06/2009 - 16:15
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Does centre AF point lock the exposure too ?
If so do you find sometimes that when you use the centre and lock the focus and then recompose it nafs the metering up as its metered for that point and not what the new recomposed shot is?
Matt
If so do you find sometimes that when you use the centre and lock the focus and then recompose it nafs the metering up as its metered for that point and not what the new recomposed shot is?
Matt
Posted 09/06/2009 - 16:17
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Quote:
Does centre AF point lock the exposure too ?
It does if you want it to - just set the appropriate custom function.
Does centre AF point lock the exposure too ?
Best regards, John
Posted 09/06/2009 - 17:43
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Cheers
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72 posts
18 years
Neuchâtel,
Switzerland