What scanner?
For ultimate quality you cannot go wrong with a dedicated film scanner, I have the Nikon Coolscan V ED and it's superb - but not cheap...
Minolta did make a 5400 dpi scanner before Sony came in and then suddenly all the available ones got snapped up....
If you can find a) the money and b) a good used Nikon/Canon/Minolta scanner then you'll get good quality scans.
I also have a HP desktop flatbed scanner with a transparency adaptor, while the quality is acceptable keeping the scanner glass clean is a very difficult task..
It will probably be a one-off purchase because as you shoot more digital you spend more time manipulating your DSLR pictures and more worryingly there are fewer and fewer places developing E6 film

Z-1p, K-1, P50
F50 1.7. FAs 24, 35, 50 1.4, 85, 135

Metz 45 CL-4, AF500FTZ. AF540FGZ.
Some Mamiya and some Nikon
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...

I've some gallerieshere CLICKY LINK! and my PPG entries.
I'm interested in a scanner for film so that I can post better images on the web.
I'm not sure how this is going to work. When you get your images out of the scanner and into the computer, you will then just have to process them through Photoshop in exactly the same way as your digital images. How will shooting on film make the images better?
I really think it's much easier to use a digital camera for this, and I mention it because I'm pretty sure you will end up disappointed in your scanner if this is the only purpose you are buying it for.
Best regards, John
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
I have the Nikon Coolscan V ED and it's superb - but not cheap...
I've been considering getting one of these (or, possibly its big brother, the Coolscan 5000, which has a bit more optical density range).
What I really need is, for a first pass, to be able to get decent scan quality, with minimum effort, since I have about 4000 negs to scan - all my film from 20 years or more.
I don't have the prints, and I'm sure most of it will be dross, but I won't know what I've got till I've scanned the whole lot.
So I want a workflow that consists of something as close as possible to "feed a strip, press the button, let digital ICE sort out the dust, contrast and colour, and save the images" - while I'm working at other stuff.
Then when I've been through them, I'll be in a position to go back and re-scan the 0.001% that are worth optimising.
With your experience of the V ED, is what I'm after anywhere near possible?
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
How about just looking at the negs and scanning any you take a fancy to, one film at a time when you have a moment?
Best regards, John
We use a Coolscan IV, almost identical apart from the resolution, and scanning 4000 negatives will take an eternity. Ther's no easy way to do this and i wouldn't even try.
I was afraid of this.

So what does happen if you feed in a strip, all the digital ICE options on, and walk away for a while?
How about just looking at the negs and scanning any you take a fancy to, one film at a time when you have a moment?
Yeah, I tried that. I am totally, totally rubbish at looking at negs and having the slightest idea of what's on them. I can just about see that a picture has people in it, but who they might be is a complete mystery.

I don't mind the actual time it would take to do its stuff - it could take 20 minutes a strip for all I care, just so long I can somehow avoid doing anything else to it between the feeding in, and saving the results to the hard disk.
If that was possible, I could do a film a day, no problem, and after a few months, they'd be done.
________
Edit: and before some bright spark points out that 0.001% of 4000 is a lot less than 1, so I should just bin the lot, that wouldn't help, ok?


.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
We rarely scan these days - only if something special has to be resurrected from our film past.
Although you say you don't mind the time Chris, I wonder if it might not get a bit tedious anyway after a few nights spent doing a film a night?
When I did the PU article on Images of England I had to scan negatives and it was a real pain to do 20 or so shots. After that it was back to digital and it was a real relief to not have to look at scanning again.
Best regards, John
I use PEC-12 with a cotton bud for my cleaning - shifts most things but not the emulsion
Steve
In the Pack - Gripped K5 (SE),K7 & K20, Gripped MZ-S(SE)& MZ-S,DA10-17, DA12-24, DA14, DA*16-50, 50-135, 60-250 & 300mm; FA31mm/43mm/77mm Ltds; Sigma 8-16, 135-400 & 150-500
Half Backs: K10+BG,DA16-45, DA50-200
Backs: LXs,Super As and lots of A, M & K lenses
Impact Subs: 28mm Shift, K 135-600 (the Banahan of Pentax zooms

The process is incredibly slow and excruciatingly slow if done with care to a higher standard.
I'm sensing you're saying it's not a quick process, John..

Although you say you don't mind the time Chris, I wonder if it might not get a bit tedious anyway after a few nights spent doing a film a night?
Well yes. Thing is, I'm not getting any younger, and there are a lot of my memories locked up in those negative folders. And a few half-decent pictures. A bit like Dumbledore's Pensieve, in Harry Potter.
I work at home, I'm at the computer anyway, so if it would just scan a strip of 6 and present me with 6 big files to save I think it would be worth biting the bullet. I'm not worth much before the coffee's kicked in of a morning, so I'd probably do it while I wasn't yet completely conscious.
It's if I have to muck about, fiddling with it for every frame, that maybe I should really give up the project.


.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
I'm not sure how this is going to work. When you get your images out of the scanner and into the computer, you will then just have to process them through Photoshop in exactly the same way as your digital images. How will shooting on film make the images better?
I really think it's much easier to use a digital camera for this, and I mention it because I'm pretty sure you will end up disappointed in your scanner if this is the only purpose you are buying it for.
Agreed I'll need to process the images once scanned, but I enjoy using 35MM cameras, the only options open are to scan the print or negative, or have a cd made at the developing stage.
Digital is easier, but you don't think the same about a shot.
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...

I've some gallerieshere CLICKY LINK! and my PPG entries.
But, it was much easier scanning slides


Love digital

(And I'm getting far, far higher quality images out of the K20D than I ever got out of any film! Even the *ist-D gave me better quality. Now either my film technique was bad, or digital is better

Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)



Tel,
Or you had NO film technique to begin with
LOL! I wasn't that bad

Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
Hardgravity
Member
Bradford,Yorkshire, UK
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
I've some gallerieshere CLICKY LINK! and my PPG entries.