wedding
Lenses;
DFA 24-70 F2.8
DFA 70-200 F 2.8
35mm DG f1.4 Sigma Art
DFA 100mm macro f2.8
2 x K1 bodies
2 metz flash units
The fast Sigma can become essential if the church and /or reception venue are dark.
If the ambient external conditions are bright and the internal settings are well lit by natural light ( big windows) I am very comfortable with just the two zooms and fill in / bounce flash as required.
However, sorry to state the obvious, visit the venue and check internal decor / ceiling colours and the position of the sun at the appropriate times, in relation to the external layout and internal window light.
Regards
K5 and 50 135 when I had it
And the kx with kit 18 55
You'll be too busy running about sorting group photos than worrying about gear trust me
Check out ones photographs on Flickr!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/awprentice/
I've donever two.
K5 and 50 135 when I had it
And the kx with kit 18 55
You'll be too busy running about sorting group photos than worrying about gear trust me
thats why i said there would be 2 of us im taking the worst half with me (or should that be better half)
If the ambient external conditions are bright and the internal settings are well lit by natural light ( big windows) I am very comfortable with just the two zooms and fill in / bounce flash as required.
With the K1 Daron, I should think the options are considerably widened. If you can comfortably shoot at ISO 1600 or 3200 then a single bounced flash, and even F5.6-F8 will suffice , even in dimmer conditions .....the extra freedoms unleashed by including an F2.8 zoom into that mix must be truly liberating!
But it may not even be a necessity now with the K1 . The extra out of focus background caused by the larger sensor, especially at longer focal lengths, presumably means that even F4 or F5.6 is sufficient .....?
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
If I were you I'd take two cameras in case one fails. And while you have two cameras have a wide angle angle on one for group shots and a medium zoom for close ups / telephoto shots with the other to avoid messing around changing lenses. If you have any limited lenses, use them!
Also write out a list of must have shots as an aide mémoire in case you overlook something you might regret missing later.
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Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Batteries, lots of, charged.
Memory cards, lots of, cleared. Use the side slide tab to secure them, potentially change often to ensure if there is a failure, it doesn't take the lot. Use dual memory card slots if your camera has them. Backup bodies if your main camera takes a dive on the day.
Clarify expectations. What style are the Bride and Groom after, expecting? Can they show you examples of what they like?
Who is there that requires extra attention, guests of note, the 145 year old granny you can't miss etc. Are you expected to cover pre event content, at both bride and groom locations? Staying right until the dancing late in the night? What do they want out of it? A photo book? Large framed wedding photos for the wall? 50x small day books as thank you tokens to guests etc?
One of the big tasks is group photos, and that's like herding sheep. Much easier if someone or more, one from each family, is there to arrange guests. The best wedding I've ever seen in this regard had the MC directing people through for the photographer with military precision.
As above, you can see why the fast zooms appeal for wedding work. Primes are great, but are not flexible enough (field of view wise) for you to react dynamically on the fly in a wedding situation. By this I mean framing usually requires moving with your feet, and in a seated wedding situation, you can't always do this without bumping into someone/something. Primes for the artsy shots, zooms for the event where you don't get to stop proceedings to frame up a shot. Also, it's better to get the shot without such a blurred background, than to miss focus with a narrow depth of field. Unless you 100% trust your autofocus I'd play it safe with a wider depth of field aperture setting. Save the fancy stuff for when you're away from the ceremony and can reshoot if needs be.
A shot list is not a bad idea. You're the photographer, so you get to shape the image. Control and posing subjects is all part of the job.
Check your art photos to make sure they're in focus. You can do multiple takes on the day, but you can't come back the next day to reshoot something that wasn't in focus. Take time to chimp at the rear screen and confirm you've nailed the focus the way you need it.
Can you check the location in advance. What will happen if it's raining? What's the photos plan B if you can't make location A for any reason? Are you allowed flash photography at the event location? Is there room/an area at the side of the stage/blocked off from seating that you can secure for ceremony shots? Is there any feature/location that excites your creative side? Does anything standout as a potentially cool background backdrop etc? When you get some alone time with the Bride and Groom, where are you going to take them nearby? Don't forget B roll (sorry video terms) establishment shots. Table settings, rings, flowers, crowd, features of the location, dress hanging ready etc These non people specific photos will all help to frame the day and 'Tell the story' (I both appreciate and hate that term).
What settings will you run with for that event? Single point focus tends to work for me, smart 'auto'/'multi area' Pentax AF modes have proven themselves to be more hassle than anything to me over the years, focussing at random on any part of the scene and usually not what I had in mind at all. With Metering though on the other hand, the auto modes seem great to me. If inside, ensure your shutter speed is fast enough to prevent motion blur in your subject. You can usually lighten an image more effectively than trying to sharpen up a motion blurred slow shutter speed photo.
Get a good nights sleep before hand. Take some water for yourself.
If crop sensor then 16-50 50-135 50 1.4
Full frame 24-70 70-200
Two bodies and enjoy the day
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Also, make sure you have a second shooter, and if you have room in the car, take some lightweight step ladders, it's critical to get on the right level for group shots.
Finally, I would also be tempted to take a longer zoom, up to 200 or 300mm, especially for the second shooter getting candid shots, so they can be tightly framed from a distance.
Regards
David
Also, a short stepladder (please, don't use one full of paint spots. It would look rather "unprofessional") is very useful for group shots, since being higher than the crowd, you can "see" the everybody's visage in the picture.
Also, I find "old flashes" with a sensor incorporated into the flash very useful when you need to react in a hurry. Most of the time, they nail the exposure better than P-TTL .
I also find "energy bars" a must. You won't have time to find food, and don't forget to stay hydrated. I generally freeze one or two bottles of "Gatorade" when the weather is warm. By the time I use them, they're thawed but still cold. Just don't overdo it with the drinks. You don't want to go bathroom too often and miss a crucial moment.
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
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1229 posts
9 years
i have been asked to do a wedding any sugestions on lenses please
(and befor you say it i know one that fits on your camera and works)
as the last time i did a weding it was in the days of me super and lx
many thanks