Use of Lithuim AAs
Posted 22/12/2008 - 15:42
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Hi Beakynet,
Cannot see any technical reason why a device that uses AA batteries cannot use Lithium AA batteries. As long as the voltage output is within expectations then the chemistry of the battery should have little to do with it.
Obviously some batteries perform better than others and this is where the Lithium batteries excel. Have you seen the current advert by Energizer plugging their Lithium AA batteries for high drain devices like digital cameras? Perhaps we should tell Samsung that Energizer have got it all wrong.
Cannot see any technical reason why a device that uses AA batteries cannot use Lithium AA batteries. As long as the voltage output is within expectations then the chemistry of the battery should have little to do with it.
Obviously some batteries perform better than others and this is where the Lithium batteries excel. Have you seen the current advert by Energizer plugging their Lithium AA batteries for high drain devices like digital cameras? Perhaps we should tell Samsung that Energizer have got it all wrong.
K10D with Grip, 28mm,50mm,135mm,18-55,18-200,70-300mm, Meade 2000mm catadioptric, dodgy tripod and luck
Posted 22/12/2008 - 15:56
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I think it's unlikely, but perhaps the initial voltage of the cells is high enough above 1.5V to damage the camera. Batteries do not always produce what it says on the label. This is true for alkalines too, but perhaps not to such an extent.
I don't have an Optio that takes AAs, but I do use lithium AA and NiMH AA in LED devices that are only supposed to be used with alkalines. No problems so far.
The instruction manuals may have been written before lithium AAs became popular, hence the lack of mention.
I don't have an Optio that takes AAs, but I do use lithium AA and NiMH AA in LED devices that are only supposed to be used with alkalines. No problems so far.
The instruction manuals may have been written before lithium AAs became popular, hence the lack of mention.
~Pete
Posted 22/12/2008 - 16:31
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Lithium batteries can and do damage digital cameras and even film cameras not designed to take them. I understand that this is due to very high initial voltages.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
Best regards, John
Posted 23/12/2008 - 01:07
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johnriley wrote:
Lithium batteries can and do damage digital cameras and even film cameras not designed to take them. I understand that this is due to very high initial voltages.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
Thanks John,Lithium batteries can and do damage digital cameras and even film cameras not designed to take them. I understand that this is due to very high initial voltages.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
This might then be an issue, though the Samsung camera was produced April 2008, where the Optio I use them in is older. I will scan the manual and online to see if there is anything that explicitly states not to use Lithium AA in it.
Bodies: K5IIs, K7, MZ5n, LX, MV
Lenses: DA*16-50, DA18-55WR, DA18-135, DAL35, M50 F2, A50 f1.4, FA50 f1.4, DA*50-135, DA55-300, Tamron 70-300, DFA 100 WR Macro, M135 f3.5, Sigma 120-400 APO DG HSM, Tokina 500 f8.0
Flash: Metz 58, Metz 48
Accessories: BG4, Pentax right angle finder, Pentax mirror adaptor lens, O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe
Auto 110 System: Auto 110, Winder, 18mm, 24mm, 50mm, 70mm, 20-40mm, AF100P, 1.7x telecon
Lenses: DA*16-50, DA18-55WR, DA18-135, DAL35, M50 F2, A50 f1.4, FA50 f1.4, DA*50-135, DA55-300, Tamron 70-300, DFA 100 WR Macro, M135 f3.5, Sigma 120-400 APO DG HSM, Tokina 500 f8.0
Flash: Metz 58, Metz 48
Accessories: BG4, Pentax right angle finder, Pentax mirror adaptor lens, O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe
Auto 110 System: Auto 110, Winder, 18mm, 24mm, 50mm, 70mm, 20-40mm, AF100P, 1.7x telecon
Posted 16/01/2009 - 15:20
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For what it is worth ...
I use a lot of Ni-MH in AA size. K100DS,a Panasonic, motion detector lamps, flashes, etc. All are in the 1200-1400 mAh range, and all are rated as 1.2 volt. When fully charged, they are all over 1.4 volts, and when the K100DS rejects them as too low, the voltage is always over 1.2V (the part-charge warning seems to come on at around 1300mV. The manual says that Lithium AAs are OK to use, but I have never needed to.
I do see the need for a small multi-meter though.
Geoff
I use a lot of Ni-MH in AA size. K100DS,a Panasonic, motion detector lamps, flashes, etc. All are in the 1200-1400 mAh range, and all are rated as 1.2 volt. When fully charged, they are all over 1.4 volts, and when the K100DS rejects them as too low, the voltage is always over 1.2V (the part-charge warning seems to come on at around 1300mV. The manual says that Lithium AAs are OK to use, but I have never needed to.
I do see the need for a small multi-meter though.
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
Posted 16/01/2009 - 16:58
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johnriley wrote:
Lithium batteries can and do damage digital cameras and even film cameras not designed to take them. I understand that this is due to very high initial voltages.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
Are you sure about that John.... Lithium batteries were brought out about 1978 when silver prices were sky high and Lithium worked out half the price and lasted twice as long. They were certainly recommended then although they would have been designed for SO. The manufacturers now screw us by charging higher prices for cheap to produce batteries just because they last longer..... bastards Lithium batteries can and do damage digital cameras and even film cameras not designed to take them. I understand that this is due to very high initial voltages.
Examples include older cameras such as the Pentax MX and ME series models, which should only use silver oxide or alkaline G13 cells and not the lithium alternatives. Also included are more modern digital cameras which were not designed for lithium. Sometimes the manuals expressly state that they should not be used.
I know the temptation is often "it can't matter" but sometimes it does.
Strangely about the same time Olympus were selling flashguns and recommending that only Alkaline batteries be used in them, no NiCads even though they were 0.3V lower. I can only think that it must be due to the internal resistance of the battery causing too much current to flow through the flashgun..... bad design by Olympus, bet they changed it on the next models?
shim
Posted 16/01/2009 - 17:32
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Yes, I'm quite sure. The MX and ME series can apparently overheat with Lithium batteries. Other reasons might include problems with gas emmissions from some batteries.
It's not a problem as we can still buy silver oxide and alkaline G13 cells. The former last about one year, the latter about six months.
It's not a problem as we can still buy silver oxide and alkaline G13 cells. The former last about one year, the latter about six months.
Best regards, John
Posted 16/01/2009 - 18:31
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johnriley wrote:
Yes, I'm quite sure. The MX and ME series can apparently overheat with Lithium batteries. Other reasons might include problems with gas emmissions from some batteries.
It's not a problem as we can still buy silver oxide and alkaline G13 cells. The former last about one year, the latter about six months.
Now that I think about it I never used Lithiums in my MX or MEF. I'm probably thinking of the Olympus OM20 and I think the Canons took 2 at 3v or 1 x 6v. I'm not sure when the Alkalines came out for camera's they certainly weren't out in the late 70's when they had the Silver problems. They would have been out for hearing aids along with 1.35v mercurys etc. at that time. I never have and never will use G13 Alkalines in a camera, I can't imagine that they would last long. Cheap as chipsYes, I'm quite sure. The MX and ME series can apparently overheat with Lithium batteries. Other reasons might include problems with gas emmissions from some batteries.
It's not a problem as we can still buy silver oxide and alkaline G13 cells. The former last about one year, the latter about six months.
shim
Posted 16/01/2009 - 18:56
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DoctorJeff wrote:
For what it is worth ...
I use a lot of Ni-MH in AA size. K100DS,a Panasonic, motion detector lamps, flashes, etc. All are in the 1200-1400 mAh range, and all are rated as 1.2 volt. When fully charged, they are all over 1.4 volts, and when the K100DS rejects them as too low, the voltage is always over 1.2V (the part-charge warning seems to come on at around 1300mV. The manual says that Lithium AAs are OK to use, but I have never needed to.
I do see the need for a small multi-meter though.
Geoff
Testing batteries open circuit is a complete waste of time. They may be flat and because they have not been used for a while will still register full voltage. They need to be tested under load. I have a Tandy/Micronta Battery Tester (about 20 years old) that tests under load 1.5v, 6v, 9v, 15v, 22.5v. Sadly no 3v for Lithiums but 6v gives an indication although the loading runs the battery down as your looking at it For what it is worth ...
I use a lot of Ni-MH in AA size. K100DS,a Panasonic, motion detector lamps, flashes, etc. All are in the 1200-1400 mAh range, and all are rated as 1.2 volt. When fully charged, they are all over 1.4 volts, and when the K100DS rejects them as too low, the voltage is always over 1.2V (the part-charge warning seems to come on at around 1300mV. The manual says that Lithium AAs are OK to use, but I have never needed to.
I do see the need for a small multi-meter though.
Geoff
I also have a Tandy Pulse charger which tests the battery at the voltage that it needs to put a charge into it. With 1.2v cells if it's 1.3v it discharges the cells first. Over 1.3v and it just tops the cells up. With good cells the final trickle voltage will be 1.45/1.46v poorer cells may only reach 1.38v. This can sometimes be improved by pressing a button to discharge the battery and recharge it. I've had to do that with some Sony AA's..... Panasonics usually go straight up to 1.46v without any bother. Some high capacity AA's go higher than 1.2v I thinks that's how they get the capacity.
I've still got some Ray-o-Vac rechargeable alkalines 1.5v but never been able to figure out what to use them for. Your supposed to just use them until they drop to about 1.3-1.4v and then recharge. If they go right down they won't recharge or you may only get a couple of charges out of them. While I'm on about Ray-o-Vac be careful with their Alkalines they do LEAK. I found out when they leaked in a £600 DAT recorder. Luckily just a bit of damage to the contacts.
shim
Posted 16/01/2009 - 18:58
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Hi all,
Like DoctorJeff, I use AA rechargeables. 2500 mAh Encore. I have four sets, kept specifically as sets. They cost me less that £1 a cell, I get 6-800 shots a charge, and they're very good in the 360 flash as well.
I don't understand why single use AA batteries are sold in any great quantity anymore.. even Lithium! In over 3 years of using the DL, it's cost me (including charger) a little over £25 in batteries, and although I have one set that's slowing down a little, I don't reckon on spending again this year either. Even if I do replace the slow set, it's still only about £3.. for another 3 years..
Cheers
Liam
Like DoctorJeff, I use AA rechargeables. 2500 mAh Encore. I have four sets, kept specifically as sets. They cost me less that £1 a cell, I get 6-800 shots a charge, and they're very good in the 360 flash as well.
I don't understand why single use AA batteries are sold in any great quantity anymore.. even Lithium! In over 3 years of using the DL, it's cost me (including charger) a little over £25 in batteries, and although I have one set that's slowing down a little, I don't reckon on spending again this year either. Even if I do replace the slow set, it's still only about £3.. for another 3 years..
Cheers
Liam
Liam
"Make your hands respond to what your mind demands." Jesse James
Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the 'ah-ha'. Ernst Haas
"Make your hands respond to what your mind demands." Jesse James
Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the 'ah-ha'. Ernst Haas
Posted 16/01/2009 - 19:41
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Lithium batteries perform very well, have a shelf life of many years, are very light, and work well at low temperature.
All this makes them ideal as emergency spares, or even for regular use at 7DayShop and Wilkinsons prices... providing they are compatible with your camera, of course.
All this makes them ideal as emergency spares, or even for regular use at 7DayShop and Wilkinsons prices... providing they are compatible with your camera, of course.
~Pete
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829 posts
18 years
South East London
It set me to wondering if anyone had experienced problems with using Lithuim AA in Optios? Is this just drivel from Sumsung or is there some substance to this advice?
Lenses: DA*16-50, DA18-55WR, DA18-135, DAL35, M50 F2, A50 f1.4, FA50 f1.4, DA*50-135, DA55-300, Tamron 70-300, DFA 100 WR Macro, M135 f3.5, Sigma 120-400 APO DG HSM, Tokina 500 f8.0
Flash: Metz 58, Metz 48
Accessories: BG4, Pentax right angle finder, Pentax mirror adaptor lens, O-ME53 Viewfinder Loupe
Auto 110 System: Auto 110, Winder, 18mm, 24mm, 50mm, 70mm, 20-40mm, AF100P, 1.7x telecon