Too shake or not - that is the question
Posted 24/10/2007 - 17:51
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This is making a return to film look like a great idea, at least you got a new sensor with every shot! After once discovering after a big shoot that I had an awful lot of dust on my sensor I bought a rocket blower and sensor swabs. I've used the swabs once and the blower a lot and no more dust.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 24/10/2007 - 17:55
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Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
I have dust removal switched on and I've noticed it works. I was constantly bugged by dust on my *istD which remained until manually removed. However, on the few occasions I've noticed specs in pictures on the K10D, they have vanished on their own. I have yet to have to clean it manually.
Secondly, fears about undue wear from shaking are completely misplaced and show a total lack of understanding about how things are made.
If something is manufactured to vibrate you can bet that it has been tested to destruction by vibrating it a whole lot more than it will ever be subjected to in normal use.
Manufacturers do this because a reputation of unreliable products is a killer and takes a long time to shake off (no pun intended).
I wonder if these fearful, timid people push their cars everywhere? Internal combustion engines vibrate an awful lot too. Ever seen a washing machine on spin cycle? That's a cracker.
Sure things wear out but just how often is a camera thrown away because it was simply worn out? Obsolescence is a much nearer threat. How often do you change your camera?
Lighten up. Look after it but use it!
Buzzes (dust removal) and beeps (focussing) are all turned off on my camera because when I manage to get close enough to a timid subject, I certainly don't want the thing to be frightened off by the noise of my camera being turned on. I'm quite happy to clean the sensor . . . when it needs it.
Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
I have dust removal switched on and I've noticed it works. I was constantly bugged by dust on my *istD which remained until manually removed. However, on the few occasions I've noticed specs in pictures on the K10D, they have vanished on their own. I have yet to have to clean it manually.
Secondly, fears about undue wear from shaking are completely misplaced and show a total lack of understanding about how things are made.
If something is manufactured to vibrate you can bet that it has been tested to destruction by vibrating it a whole lot more than it will ever be subjected to in normal use.
Manufacturers do this because a reputation of unreliable products is a killer and takes a long time to shake off (no pun intended).
I wonder if these fearful, timid people push their cars everywhere? Internal combustion engines vibrate an awful lot too. Ever seen a washing machine on spin cycle? That's a cracker.
Sure things wear out but just how often is a camera thrown away because it was simply worn out? Obsolescence is a much nearer threat. How often do you change your camera?
Lighten up. Look after it but use it!
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 24/10/2007 - 17:59
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We could all be right, or wrong, or both.
Quite. And mine is as valid as anyone's.Quote:
Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
It's a discussion with people mooting various points of view, all of which can be given equal space and consideration.Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
We could all be right, or wrong, or both.
So why pick it out for special mention?
lenscape
K20D, K10D, K-m, MZ3, Metz 58-AF1, Optio MX4 & Linux.(No Windows)
(Gone: *istD, ME Super, Super-A)
K20D, K10D, K-m, MZ3, Metz 58-AF1, Optio MX4 & Linux.(No Windows)
(Gone: *istD, ME Super, Super-A)
Posted 24/10/2007 - 18:00
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In answer to the original post, I leave mine switched on and I've never felt the need to clean the sensor (not even with an air blower). I've not heard of anybody who has broken their K10D by means of excessive sensor shaking, however, if it should happen to me years down the line then I think I'll probably still have had good value out of the camera - I paid £499 for it in June and I've now clocked up nearly 4000 shots, an average of £0.12 per shot and going down daily. I haven't done the sums but I reckon that's probably the best cost-per-picture ratio of any camera I've ever owned!
I'd much rather take the risk of a reduced overall lifespan due to sensor shake than bring that death forward by ham-fisted attempts at sensor swabbing - but that's just me, it's your camera so treat it how you feel most comfortable with...
I'd much rather take the risk of a reduced overall lifespan due to sensor shake than bring that death forward by ham-fisted attempts at sensor swabbing - but that's just me, it's your camera so treat it how you feel most comfortable with...
Joining the Q
Posted 24/10/2007 - 18:06
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Quite. And mine is as valid as anyone's.
So why pick it out for special mention?
Moderator judgement.
Quite. And mine is as valid as anyone's.
So why pick it out for special mention?
Best regards, John
Posted 25/10/2007 - 10:25
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Just a thought for the techies..
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
Idle thoughts only..
Cheers
Liam
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
Idle thoughts only..
Cheers
Liam
Liam
"Make your hands respond to what your mind demands." Jesse James
Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the 'ah-ha'. Ernst Haas
"Make your hands respond to what your mind demands." Jesse James
Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the 'ah-ha'. Ernst Haas
Posted 25/10/2007 - 10:40
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Quote:
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
Are CCDs actually charged other than just after the image capture?
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
Posted 25/10/2007 - 15:33
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As far as I understand it, CCDs are charged when switched on, that is, when they are active. In the case of a bridge or compact camera that would be all the time we are viewing. In the case of a DSLR it might only be switched on for the point of capture, although maybe slightly longer to allow the electronics to stabilise before the actual exposure.
Best regards, John
Posted 27/10/2007 - 02:11
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So why pick it out for special mention?
Difficult to understand the logic behind taking a 'POKE' at many other opinions and then whining about a 'poke' at theirs (capitalization intentional)...johnriley wrote:
We could all be right, or wrong, or both.
Quite. And mine is as valid as anyone's.Quote:
Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
It's a discussion with people mooting various points of view, all of which can be given equal space and consideration.Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
We could all be right, or wrong, or both.
So why pick it out for special mention?
Might just be me...
--------------
MZ-6,K10D,K20D,Grip,DA*Zooms,DA 18-55-200 Kit,FA50,1.7TC,AFZ360
For Saleentax FA28-90,FA100-300,Sigma EX28-80,DC18-200,
Makinon 500mm Mirror
MZ-6,K10D,K20D,Grip,DA*Zooms,DA 18-55-200 Kit,FA50,1.7TC,AFZ360
For Saleentax FA28-90,FA100-300,Sigma EX28-80,DC18-200,
Makinon 500mm Mirror
Posted 27/10/2007 - 08:45
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Quote:
Just a thought for the techies..
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
The "charge" applied to the sensor is of the order of a few volts, no practical potential to "attract" dust given the electrical potential and that the active electronics are separated by a glass cover-plate which has a polymer filter in front of it. Both of these are likely good dielectrics assuming that that one or both are not conductively coated and earthed.Just a thought for the techies..
Does the sensor shake do it's stuff before a charge is put through the sensor. ie. switching it on. Being a CCD, the biggest problem with dust is that it sticks to the sensor because of the static induced by it when there's power going to it.
A charge generated by blowing or brushing the polymer filter likely has significantly more potential to attract dust.
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
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Goodness there is a lot of nonsense in this thread.
We could all be right, or wrong, or both.