Sports advise
Posted 14/01/2011 - 08:11
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Nipper, a couple more details on the body/lens combo you plan on using might be useful for folk to really help. For example, I wouldn't like to rely on AF-C with most Pentax combinations, especially prior to the K20D. You'll perhaps get more joy locking focus either manually or with AF-S on a fixed point and grabbing the bikes as they pass that point. Of course if you plan on catching them at their slowest, like a tight corner entry/exit, you'll get by with AF-C.
Don't be afraid to crank up the ISO at first, this will give you higher shutter speeds and the chance to use smaller apertures, both of which are more forgiving. The results will look a little static, so once you're getting comfortable with those settings then try opening up the aperture for some subject isolation (more critical to nail focus) or trailing the shutter a little longer (more movement and dynamic effects) I'd also turn off IS as it tries to counter most panning/tracking movement.
Composition will be determined by the track access/viewpoints available and the focal lengths at your disposal. Get some ideas beforehand of the kind of shots you'd like to tackle (google is your friend) but be fully prepared to discard them and make up more of you own.
My PPG has a few motorcross and rally pics, link should be in my signature below. They have full exif so might be of some use with regards to settings? There are also some 'straight out of camera' K10 jpegs from my first attempt at motorcross in 2008 here: link. Not works of art by any means but might give you some ideas. Again, I think the exif data is intact.
Don't be afraid to crank up the ISO at first, this will give you higher shutter speeds and the chance to use smaller apertures, both of which are more forgiving. The results will look a little static, so once you're getting comfortable with those settings then try opening up the aperture for some subject isolation (more critical to nail focus) or trailing the shutter a little longer (more movement and dynamic effects) I'd also turn off IS as it tries to counter most panning/tracking movement.
Composition will be determined by the track access/viewpoints available and the focal lengths at your disposal. Get some ideas beforehand of the kind of shots you'd like to tackle (google is your friend) but be fully prepared to discard them and make up more of you own.
My PPG has a few motorcross and rally pics, link should be in my signature below. They have full exif so might be of some use with regards to settings? There are also some 'straight out of camera' K10 jpegs from my first attempt at motorcross in 2008 here: link. Not works of art by any means but might give you some ideas. Again, I think the exif data is intact.
Posted 14/01/2011 - 12:33
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I was hoping to use my tamron 70 200 f2.8 on k5 i know that the focus his supposed to be slow but my first dslr seems pretty quick to me lol, will be able to get pretty close, will i have to be careful with depth of field if i use small apertures ?
Posted 14/01/2011 - 12:37
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like the photos
Posted 14/01/2011 - 12:49
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I used the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 on a K10D for a Motorcross practice in Spain a couple of years ago. Only had the camera a few months and was my first time doing anything remotely like it.
Would love to give it another go now I have a little more knowledge (and a faster focusing camera)
Pics HERE
Would love to give it another go now I have a little more knowledge (and a faster focusing camera)
Pics HERE
Posted 14/01/2011 - 12:55
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Yeah cant wait it seems very fast to me though i have'nt had anything to compare it with its mighty sharp though and BIG, has new at this concerning weather his it a complete no no to shoot in any sort of rain ?
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:02
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Its an extreme event so should be loads of mud sweat and tears and a world champion to photo
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:03
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depends whether you like your lens or not.
If it's HSM, there's a motor in it. If it changes length when zooming, you're inviting moisture inside.
I would wonder about using anything faster than 1/160 or so if you want it to look like they're moving; if you get the opportunity to take multiple sets, I would, with one being fast and another being slower (great panning practice!)
Got a monopod? You'll want one.
Bret
If it's HSM, there's a motor in it. If it changes length when zooming, you're inviting moisture inside.
I would wonder about using anything faster than 1/160 or so if you want it to look like they're moving; if you get the opportunity to take multiple sets, I would, with one being fast and another being slower (great panning practice!)
Got a monopod? You'll want one.
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:06
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Take thats a NO then yep got a monopod. hope it don't rain then has only got 18 55 wr
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:12 - Helpful Comment
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nipper wrote:
I was hoping to use my tamron 70 200 f2.8 on k5
Aha, now you're talking You won't have too many issues with that setup, I have the same and AF is pretty good, AF-C is quite respectable too.I was hoping to use my tamron 70 200 f2.8 on k5
Aperture-wise it depends what you mean by 'small'. Remember that a small f-number actually means a larger iris opening. Put simply, the lower the f-number you use, the more critical focus becomes. This is especially true if your working distance is quite small, i.e. your subjects are whizzing by pretty close to you.
f8 is generally quite safe, f5.6 okay and you'll notice anything less than that becoming increasingly tricky. Take a look at the exif data of some shots you like and see what effects the varying apertures have.
As for shutter speeds, aim to keep your shutter speed high, 1/250 or faster at first, then as you feel more comfortable begin to vary it and experiment some more.
Good luck and let us in on the results, the K5 is a much better tool for this than any previous Pentax DSLR
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:15
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Doubt you will use the monopod, I felt no need for it (and still don't).
If it's going to be wet then take a carrier bag and wrap it round the lens.
I had the opposite problem in Spain, it was so bright I couldn't get a low enough shutter speed to get any movement in the wheels.
If it's going to be wet then take a carrier bag and wrap it round the lens.
I had the opposite problem in Spain, it was so bright I couldn't get a low enough shutter speed to get any movement in the wheels.
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:18
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digitalCG wrote:
Aperture-wise it depends what you mean by 'small'. Remember that a small f-number actually means a larger iris opening. Put simply, the lower the f-number you use, the more critical focus becomes. This is especially true if your working distance is quite small, i.e. your subjects are whizzing by pretty close to you.
f8 is generally quite safe, f5.6 okay and you'll notice anything less than that becoming increasingly tricky. Take a look at the exif data of some shots you like and see what effects the varying apertures have.
As for shutter speeds, aim to keep your shutter speed high, 1/250 or faster at first, then as you feel more comfortable begin to vary it and experiment some more.
Good luck and let us in on the results, the K5 is a much better tool for this than any previous Pentax DSLR
try that cheers
nipper wrote:
I was hoping to use my tamron 70 200 f2.8 on k5
Aha, now you're talking You won't have too many issues with that setup, I have the same and AF is pretty good, AF-C is quite respectable too.I was hoping to use my tamron 70 200 f2.8 on k5
Aperture-wise it depends what you mean by 'small'. Remember that a small f-number actually means a larger iris opening. Put simply, the lower the f-number you use, the more critical focus becomes. This is especially true if your working distance is quite small, i.e. your subjects are whizzing by pretty close to you.
f8 is generally quite safe, f5.6 okay and you'll notice anything less than that becoming increasingly tricky. Take a look at the exif data of some shots you like and see what effects the varying apertures have.
As for shutter speeds, aim to keep your shutter speed high, 1/250 or faster at first, then as you feel more comfortable begin to vary it and experiment some more.
Good luck and let us in on the results, the K5 is a much better tool for this than any previous Pentax DSLR
Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:25
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nipper wrote:
concerning weather is it a complete no no to shoot in any sort of rain ?
Shot my Tammy 70-200 in rain, snow and plumes of motorcross dust. Sure it's not ideal but as long as you manage the risk and use a bit of common sense you'll be fine. Might be worth mocking up a rain cover of sorts (old plastic bag with a hole in the bottom) and putting it, along with some tape, in your camera bag.concerning weather is it a complete no no to shoot in any sort of rain ?
Don't discount the 18-55 WR either, if you can get close enough to the track a wide angle can work wonders too - not motorbikes, but shot with a Sigma 10-20 at the wider end:

Posted 14/01/2011 - 13:25
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Off for another 14 hour shift to pay for this brilliant but EXSPENSIVE new hobby cheers for advise nice pics Mike p
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