Some K-X settings questions
1,470 posts
Link
Posted 18/01/2011 - 07:39
tab 4: green button is used a lot with manual lenses.
SR: not on a Tripod....
Colorspace: pick one and stick to it in *all* of your workflows or you might well get some very strange colours.
Brightness: I doubt that it has much effect on battery life
EXIF has copyright info, yes.
Pixelmap: do it occasionally to remove hotpixels (permanently r, g or b).
Dust alert? No idea.
What does the manual say?
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
SR: not on a Tripod....
Colorspace: pick one and stick to it in *all* of your workflows or you might well get some very strange colours.
Brightness: I doubt that it has much effect on battery life
EXIF has copyright info, yes.
Pixelmap: do it occasionally to remove hotpixels (permanently r, g or b).
Dust alert? No idea.
What does the manual say?
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Link
Posted 18/01/2011 - 08:22
D-Range (etc) are designed to be helpful if you shoot JPG and don't want to post-process tricky shots with a wide dynamic range. I've never shot JPG so can't comment further.
Lens correction - same again, but if you have Lightroom or CS5 you can do it there. Only works with Pentax lenses ISTR.
Green Button - its your flexible friend that its fun to be with. Useful for shooting in Manual mode, as will give you the automatic "Program" settings that you can then tweak.
Shake Reduction can cause unnecessary blurring of the image if you don't actually need it (mostly if the camera is rock-steady, sometimes if you are panning). Its a bit of a grey area though, where what affects one person badly doesn't affect someone else, down to technique and shots. If you want to be even more confused about the subject, try reading ByThom although that is talking about lens-based instead of sensor-based SR.
Colo(u)r Space : Stick with SRGB which is what computers use. AdobeRGB is a wider range, but unless you are going to Print don't bother. I use AdobeRGB because I'm a non-conformist... (and occasionally get shots published).
Brightness level : won't save battery life. Turning off Auto-Review after every shot will, though! (and may make you a better photographer).
Copyright : yes. Set it. Now.
Its also a security identifier in case your camera gets stolen, as a thief is unlikely to know to change it!
Pixel Mapping : its a "do once, forget it" thing, unless you suffer from hot pixels.
Dust Alert : You need to take a photograph of a cloud sky at infinity, or a white wall, with a normal-ish lens. If you get dust shown, first don't panic - do it a couple more times to be sure. Then buy an Artic Butterfly and clean your sensor (ps. need fully charge batteries for cleaning or it will shut down on you).
HTH!
Still shooting in the dark (literally and metaphorically)...
Helpful
Lens correction - same again, but if you have Lightroom or CS5 you can do it there. Only works with Pentax lenses ISTR.
Green Button - its your flexible friend that its fun to be with. Useful for shooting in Manual mode, as will give you the automatic "Program" settings that you can then tweak.
Shake Reduction can cause unnecessary blurring of the image if you don't actually need it (mostly if the camera is rock-steady, sometimes if you are panning). Its a bit of a grey area though, where what affects one person badly doesn't affect someone else, down to technique and shots. If you want to be even more confused about the subject, try reading ByThom although that is talking about lens-based instead of sensor-based SR.
Colo(u)r Space : Stick with SRGB which is what computers use. AdobeRGB is a wider range, but unless you are going to Print don't bother. I use AdobeRGB because I'm a non-conformist... (and occasionally get shots published).
Brightness level : won't save battery life. Turning off Auto-Review after every shot will, though! (and may make you a better photographer).
Copyright : yes. Set it. Now.
Its also a security identifier in case your camera gets stolen, as a thief is unlikely to know to change it!
Pixel Mapping : its a "do once, forget it" thing, unless you suffer from hot pixels.
Dust Alert : You need to take a photograph of a cloud sky at infinity, or a white wall, with a normal-ish lens. If you get dust shown, first don't panic - do it a couple more times to be sure. Then buy an Artic Butterfly and clean your sensor (ps. need fully charge batteries for cleaning or it will shut down on you).
HTH!
Still shooting in the dark (literally and metaphorically)...
Helpful Add a Comment
You must be registered or logged-in to comment.
dinneenp
Member
Just wondering what settings people use and why?
(tab 1)
D Range settings:
highlight correction
shadow correction
These two seem 'good' so just wondering why you wouldn't use them? I think they push up the minimun iso though
Lens correction:
distortion correction. actually just realised that it slows down
'instant review' by a few seconds so I've turned it off....
(tab 4)
Green button. (I dont' shoot RAW) I don't use this button at all. Do you?
Shake reduction: why would you have this not activated?
(tab 3)
Color Space: S RGB or AdobeRGB. What are these options?
Tools
(tab 2) brightness level: if you reduce this a lot does it save much battery life (like on iphone) or not as the lcd isn't very big?
Copyright information: does this get saved to the Exif info or where?
(tab 4)
pixel mapping: what's the advantage of this, does it slow down processing time or anything?
Dust alert: should the lens cap be off when checking this?
Thanks in advance,
Pa.
Cheers,
Pa
http://www.photoblog.ie where every post have a musical reference as it's title.