Slide copying - best light source?
Posted 25/08/2013 - 15:15
Link
It probably won't cover the full frame with a digital camera.
I use a normal dome shaped low energy which is 2700-3200K
They are hard to find though so just try the biggest low
energy you can find.
I use a normal dome shaped low energy which is 2700-3200K
They are hard to find though so just try the biggest low
energy you can find.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 25/08/2013 - 16:07
Link
Algernon wrote:
It probably won't cover the full frame with a digital camera.
I use a normal dome shaped low energy which is 2700-3200K
They are hard to find though so just try the biggest low
energy you can find.
Thanks Algi. It probably won't cover the full frame with a digital camera.
I use a normal dome shaped low energy which is 2700-3200K
They are hard to find though so just try the biggest low
energy you can find.
Yes, the copier does crop, but for the majority of the slides I want to copy they seem to have been taken on cameras which had 80-85% viewfinders anyway, so losing what's round the edges is not a problem at all.
Do you shoot straight into the light source, of diffuse it?
In the interim, my wife has pointed out that we have a number of 'daylight' bulbs so I'll give those a try first as a source.
Posted 25/08/2013 - 16:26
Link
Just straight at the Globe shaped bulb, but you could use a diffuser. I think my Pentax copier has a diffuser built in.
This is off a 1970 Kodachrome...

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This is off a 1970 Kodachrome...

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Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 25/08/2013 - 18:13
Link
I would use flash
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 25/08/2013 - 18:17
Link
gartmore wrote:
I would use flash
Thanks Ken.I would use flash
Directly into the device, via a diffuser, or bounced off a white surface?
Full power?
Posted 25/08/2013 - 18:58
Link
Via a diffuser of some sort, I say flash because you know what the colour temperature is
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 25/08/2013 - 19:03
Link
You would still need a light for focusing/cropping.
Flash will also emphasize any dust or scratches.
Which is one of the reasons diffused enlargers
were so popular.
I did a Custom WB for the bulb I used, by trial and
error. Try 3500K.... 3200K ..... 3000K etc.
This one link would be ideal.... it's DAYLIGHT 6500K
about £11.50 delivered.
If you use RAW you can also correct the CT during
editing.
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Flash will also emphasize any dust or scratches.
Which is one of the reasons diffused enlargers
were so popular.
I did a Custom WB for the bulb I used, by trial and
error. Try 3500K.... 3200K ..... 3000K etc.
This one link would be ideal.... it's DAYLIGHT 6500K
about £11.50 delivered.
If you use RAW you can also correct the CT during
editing.
--
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 26/08/2013 - 08:14
Link
It's worth making some sort of test slide to line up the
copier. This is a rough shot of a Novoflex one.....

Another Spotmatic shot off the same 1970 Seville Kodachrome film
as above....

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copier. This is a rough shot of a Novoflex one.....

Another Spotmatic shot off the same 1970 Seville Kodachrome film
as above....

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Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 26/08/2013 - 08:46
Link
Same day different make of film.... Same Black Spotmatic..

Edit: Looks too purple in Firefox? The original isn't?
That one was just off a JPG not RAW.
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Edit: Looks too purple in Firefox? The original isn't?
That one was just off a JPG not RAW.
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Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 26/08/2013 - 09:40
Link
Kodachrome doesn't scan well, which is why some scanners have a dedicated setting for it.
The second shot looks too purple in IE as well. It looks like a very faded colour slide, or maybe a mismatch of colour spaces.
The second shot looks too purple in IE as well. It looks like a very faded colour slide, or maybe a mismatch of colour spaces.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/08/2013 - 21:06
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John, I've always had amazing results from Kodachrome using the default settings on my Minolta dimage IV using the supplied Minolta softwRe
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 26/08/2013 - 22:24
Link
Good to hear Ken. We have a Coolscan V and it has a Kodachrome setting. In this case it does produce a better result on that setting, but I guess that's what it's set up for.
Best regards, John
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2470 posts
17 years
South London
The but is that the exposure results are mixed, so I'm assuming I need a consistent light source of some sort - window light is too variable.
Any recommendations please?