scanning B+W Negs
Posted 28/03/2006 - 23:21
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I have used the Nikon Coolscan IV to scan BW negs, and the first essential step was to turn off the Digital Ice. It seemed to be reading the structure of the film surface and was deleting huge areas as "dust". It is easy to spot the image in Photoshop, so dust reduction is not totally necessary. So try turning off whatever dust and screatch removal is used, and you might get a better result.
Other than that, you can adjust levels and curves in scanner software, and that might be helpful.
The alternative is to put the negative on a lightbox, turn off all the room lights and use a digital camera to make a direct copy. This works amazingly well, although it is much easier with larger negatives.
Other than that, you can adjust levels and curves in scanner software, and that might be helpful.
The alternative is to put the negative on a lightbox, turn off all the room lights and use a digital camera to make a direct copy. This works amazingly well, although it is much easier with larger negatives.
Best regards, John
Posted 29/03/2006 - 08:31
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Thanks John, you could well be right, there were lumps missing so I'll give that a try and see how I get on.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 29/03/2006 - 09:41
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With my scanner I get better results if I set the film type to colour negative when scanning B&W film.
Posted 04/04/2006 - 10:04
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John, I bought your scanner a few weeks ago.
EDIT: Sorry, I have the V not the IV.
Is yours 'noisy' (sound wise) as well? That's quite subjective, I know...
Other than that - wow, I had been thinking of getting a digital SLR but I wanted to scan in all my old negatives (and my dads and my g/fs parents) and I think I have something that will tide me over until they make DSLRs with proper viewfinders. The scanning quality/detail is astounding.
I'm finding I have to keep GEM on 3 to cut down on the grain in C41 film, I'll be taking some Provia out of the freezer when the sun comes out to see what difference that makes.
As for B&W, completely agree that DICE is a big no-no.
EDIT: Sorry, I have the V not the IV.
Is yours 'noisy' (sound wise) as well? That's quite subjective, I know...
Other than that - wow, I had been thinking of getting a digital SLR but I wanted to scan in all my old negatives (and my dads and my g/fs parents) and I think I have something that will tide me over until they make DSLRs with proper viewfinders. The scanning quality/detail is astounding.
I'm finding I have to keep GEM on 3 to cut down on the grain in C41 film, I'll be taking some Provia out of the freezer when the sun comes out to see what difference that makes.
As for B&W, completely agree that DICE is a big no-no.
Posted 04/04/2006 - 10:25
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Quote:
until they make DSLRs with proper viewfinders
All Pentax DSLRs have "proper" viewfinders until they make DSLRs with proper viewfinders
Regarding scanning - you have to turn off the infrared channel (which is used for Gem/Ice/whatever) for B&W. Black and white does not allow IR to pass through, so the scanner thinks it is one big scratch
For scanning I use Vuescan (www.hamrick.com) which worked a treat with both the Minolta and Nikon Coolscan IV I had (before I went *ist-D).
Matt
Posted 04/04/2006 - 11:23
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I couldn't believe the noise when I first used the Minolta - it sounds like a 50's Russian tractor or something. I still haven't gotten around to doing anything serious with it yet and take on board all the advice from this forum. What really irked was a 10x8 b+w print scanned by my £70 Epson scanner/printer/photocopier gave seriously impressive results without any intervention at all. I guess I'd better start climbing the learning curve! Not sure what you mean about dslr viewfinders, there is nothing wrong with the one in the *istDS, although it does seem small and dark compared to my 645. Since buying the DS I've just been snapping away at nothing very much familiarising myself with it. Last week saw it being used properly for the first time - the results are stunning with sharpness, tonality, contrast and colour rendition better than I can remember seeing with film ever. The combination of RAW and my SMC Pentax-F 70-210 at F13.5 @ 125mm and ISO200 was a real winner. Incidentally I noticed some vignetting in the top corners on pics taken with the 18-55 kit lens when fully wide, has anyone else seen this?
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 04/04/2006 - 14:21
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Whoops!
Round where I live (Reading) there are not Pentax DSLRs to be handled and looked at so I was basing my comment on the Nikon D70 and Canon 350D and 20D that I had a play with in Jessops.
If Pentax DSLRs have the same bright viewfinder and split-screen focussing screen as my ME Super I'll switch my savings effort from a Canon 20D (or 30D now) plus Sigma 30mm f/1.4 to a Pentax.
Can you get a low-light, everyday lens fully compatible with the new DSLRS BTW? (or even with just stop-down metering would be fine - just not as long as it is focus then meter)
Round where I live (Reading) there are not Pentax DSLRs to be handled and looked at so I was basing my comment on the Nikon D70 and Canon 350D and 20D that I had a play with in Jessops.
If Pentax DSLRs have the same bright viewfinder and split-screen focussing screen as my ME Super I'll switch my savings effort from a Canon 20D (or 30D now) plus Sigma 30mm f/1.4 to a Pentax.
Can you get a low-light, everyday lens fully compatible with the new DSLRS BTW? (or even with just stop-down metering would be fine - just not as long as it is focus then meter)
Posted 04/04/2006 - 15:43
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You dont really need the split screen since the camera has fantastically accurate auto focus. It does however have interchangeable screens so you could probably have one if you wanted. Your ME Super lenses will work with the new camera but with some limitations and an effective increase in focal length. The ISO sensitivity is such that even at 3200 the image isn't nearly as noisy/grainy as film so fast lens speed isn't such an issue.
However...I would strill like a 35mm/f1.4 prime.
Ken
However...I would strill like a 35mm/f1.4 prime.
Ken
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 04/04/2006 - 16:09
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The viewfinder in the *ist-D series is brighter than an ME Super. It has a laser etched focus screen which is a great improvement on the ME Super era. And yes, it's huge compared to the piddly Nikon viewfinders
Any of the SMC-F or SMC-FA series will give full autofocus. Any of the SMC-A series will work a treat in manual. (I have an SMC-A 28/2.8, and SMC-A 50/1.4 - these work a just fine on the *ist-D in all modes. I also have the SMC-F 50/1.7, the SMC-F 50/1.4 and both are a dream).
All the above support evaluative, centre-weighted, and spot metering.
The SMC-M series will all work with stop down metering (in centre weighted mode or spot metering).
That's the great thing about Pentax - the amazing compatibility!
The *ist-DS is probably the best bet at the moment as it has a pentaprism. The *ist-DL has a lighter pentamirror (but there's not a huge difference in viewfinder to be honest... my wife has an MZ10 which has a pentamirror and it still performs very well)
Looks like you're going to break into the piggy bank
Matt
Any of the SMC-F or SMC-FA series will give full autofocus. Any of the SMC-A series will work a treat in manual. (I have an SMC-A 28/2.8, and SMC-A 50/1.4 - these work a just fine on the *ist-D in all modes. I also have the SMC-F 50/1.7, the SMC-F 50/1.4 and both are a dream).
All the above support evaluative, centre-weighted, and spot metering.
The SMC-M series will all work with stop down metering (in centre weighted mode or spot metering).
That's the great thing about Pentax - the amazing compatibility!
The *ist-DS is probably the best bet at the moment as it has a pentaprism. The *ist-DL has a lighter pentamirror (but there's not a huge difference in viewfinder to be honest... my wife has an MZ10 which has a pentamirror and it still performs very well)
Looks like you're going to break into the piggy bank
Matt
Posted 04/04/2006 - 19:20
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Listen up Ken!
I've done some tests with scanning BW negs.
First, DO NOT set your scanner to BW Neg or Colour Neg. You need to set the scanner for colour slides!! Yes that's right! When you get it into your photo program all you need to do is INVERT the images and desaturate to remove the colour cast.
I was ready to quit using BW film because the scans were horrible... until I tried this setup and I got great tonal depth and sharpness.
Try it, it works awesome!
I've done some tests with scanning BW negs.
First, DO NOT set your scanner to BW Neg or Colour Neg. You need to set the scanner for colour slides!! Yes that's right! When you get it into your photo program all you need to do is INVERT the images and desaturate to remove the colour cast.
I was ready to quit using BW film because the scans were horrible... until I tried this setup and I got great tonal depth and sharpness.
Try it, it works awesome!
Posted 04/04/2006 - 19:26
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Thanks Joshua.
I will definitely give your method a try. Loved your web site - great pics and very elegant
ken
I will definitely give your method a try. Loved your web site - great pics and very elegant
ken
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 04/04/2006 - 19:29
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Thanks Ken,
Let me know the results!
Let me know the results!
Posted 05/04/2006 - 07:41
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Thanks for the tip Josh - something for me to try while Hollyoaks is on downstairs.
Matt,
The viewfinder is brighter than the ME Super!? The hunt to find a shop which stocks Pentax DSLRs is now on (although I'll be waiting for the new model coming out most probably).
Matt,
The viewfinder is brighter than the ME Super!? The hunt to find a shop which stocks Pentax DSLRs is now on (although I'll be waiting for the new model coming out most probably).
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6724 posts
20 years
Glasgow,
Scotland
I have access to a Minolta DimageIV film scanner and thought about scanning my back catalogue of mainly Tri-X negs. First results have been very disappointing - OK there is probably a lot to learn but I seem to remember reading somewhere that the supplied software isn't great, particularly for B+W. Does anyone know of software, perhaps with film profiles that I could try as an alternative? All advice gratefully recieved.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -