Reviewing images outdoors
Posted 18/04/2017 - 18:47
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Try a hand over the screen or just turn away from the direct sunlight, F2.8 will give you minimum DOF not maximium.
A natural density filter is a good way to reduce ghetto shutter speed in order to get to the flash sync speed when they are as low as they are with our kit, An alternative is a circular polariser.
A natural density filter is a good way to reduce ghetto shutter speed in order to get to the flash sync speed when they are as low as they are with our kit, An alternative is a circular polariser.
Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 18/04/2017 - 19:35
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stub wrote:
I needed to keep the shutter speed at 1/180th to use a fill in flash...
I needed to keep the shutter speed at 1/180th to use a fill in flash...
Which flash do you use? I recently discovered some sync faster than that (thanks Nigel!) To achieve this the flash needs HSS (high speed sync.)
John K
Posted 18/04/2017 - 20:37
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I always think that ND filters sound so ..... booooriiiing!! HSS is much more exciting
We've got 1/180th (aps-c) and 1/200th (K1) max sync speeds. Most flash books I read refer to 1/200 - 1/250th as the common example, so we are only a very little 'slower'. I think even the top Pro models from Canikon have a max figure of 1/300th. I admit that would be handy, but in a real situation then I'm not sure the difference between 1/180th and 1/250th would be too critical? Ok, so it would allow a half stop wider aperture, or half stop darker background.
But in any case, there have been a number of members here over the years who have been wanting a shorter max sync time.
By the way Chris, yes, I think a Polariser is a good idea .... it should add depth and colour to the backgrounds in many situations, as well as drop the exposure by a stop (or two?).
A quick look online showed me that the 5D Mk IV (£2600) has max of 1/200th, and the 1D X (£3800) 1/250th ....
Chrism8 wrote:
..... in order to get to the flash sync speed when they are as low as they are with our kit, An alternative is a circular polariser.
..... in order to get to the flash sync speed when they are as low as they are with our kit, An alternative is a circular polariser.
We've got 1/180th (aps-c) and 1/200th (K1) max sync speeds. Most flash books I read refer to 1/200 - 1/250th as the common example, so we are only a very little 'slower'. I think even the top Pro models from Canikon have a max figure of 1/300th. I admit that would be handy, but in a real situation then I'm not sure the difference between 1/180th and 1/250th would be too critical? Ok, so it would allow a half stop wider aperture, or half stop darker background.
But in any case, there have been a number of members here over the years who have been wanting a shorter max sync time.
By the way Chris, yes, I think a Polariser is a good idea .... it should add depth and colour to the backgrounds in many situations, as well as drop the exposure by a stop (or two?).
A quick look online showed me that the 5D Mk IV (£2600) has max of 1/200th, and the 1D X (£3800) 1/250th ....
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 18/04/2017 - 21:08
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My Mistake.... yes, I meant to say I'm looking for very shallow depth of field.. I have a Pentax AF540FGZ or the Shanny SN540FGZ Both are equally capable of HSS... But not too well off camera. Which is why I was using the ND filter.. As an on camera flash, I find doesnt work that well coupled with a 70-200mm lens. Personally I've never had a problem with Pentax's sync speed. So that isnt a concern at all..
Also HSS isnt that great when your trying to overpower the sun I find...
Never actually tried a polorizer. I'll give that a go..Thanks for the tip. Chris....
Also HSS isnt that great when your trying to overpower the sun I find...
Never actually tried a polorizer. I'll give that a go..Thanks for the tip. Chris....
K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
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1973 posts
14 years
Manchester
I wanted to shoot my lens wide open. f2.8. to obtain maximum Depth of field. Darken the exposuer back to something Normal using a variable ND filter. As I needed to keep the shutter speed at 1/180th to use a fill in flash...
Stuart..