Pentax P30
Posted 05/09/2004 - 10:05
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Hi Jacob, welcome to the forum.
The P30 will take any DX coded film. Non-DX films will be set to a default ISO setting of 100.
The camera needs batteries to operate, and if it hasn't been used for a while it might be a good idea to obtain a set of G13 silver oxide cells. It takes two of these.
Otherwise, I would suggest obtaining an instruction manual and then taking lots and lots of pictures. Have fun!
The P30 will take any DX coded film. Non-DX films will be set to a default ISO setting of 100.
The camera needs batteries to operate, and if it hasn't been used for a while it might be a good idea to obtain a set of G13 silver oxide cells. It takes two of these.
Otherwise, I would suggest obtaining an instruction manual and then taking lots and lots of pictures. Have fun!
Best regards, John
Posted 05/09/2004 - 10:22
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Posted 05/09/2004 - 17:10
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Thanks every one. Yea I have alread read through the manual and the "lenses and accessorise" book that came with it. Right now iv been shooting on a roll of B&W film that was in there when when my step mom bought it (a few good years ago). She said it would probably not be worth getting it developed so I plan to go buy the local camera store and buy some color film and take some pics. Im pretty happy about the price of film for this camera, or so I have seen, compared to digital. 8 rolls is about 9 USD and thats 36 for each roll, 36*8=256 (I think) and thats about as many pics that a 1g flash card, that cost about 150-200 USD, can hold (that is shooting in a higher res and quality). Once I take some pics ill scan them so that I can show you all. Here is one that I took with my digital camera a few days ago.

Posted 05/09/2004 - 17:18
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Ohh yes, one more thing. I also have a Vivitar Macro and Zoom lens that came with it. I was wondering if the lens is actual a good macro lens? Im really into macros but don't want to have to buy a new lens right away. About how far away can this lens focus? Thanks for all of your help.
-j
Posted 05/09/2004 - 21:59
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Heh Sorry for this triple post. But I was wondering what film you thought was better?
http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?page=searchresults&searchinfo=DX-coded
or
http://www.adorama.com/KKGA36.html?searchinfo=Kodacolor%20Gold&item_no=8
?
I have heard many things about the Kodak Gold film (the ISO is 100 so that shouldnt be a problem for the P30) but then there is the Adorama DX-coded film. What would you choose for this camera? I plan to be shooting pics macros outside and inside with a positioned light so I don't think I need much more than 100 ISO. Thanks.... again
http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?page=searchresults&searchinfo=DX-coded
or
http://www.adorama.com/KKGA36.html?searchinfo=Kodacolor%20Gold&item_no=8
?
I have heard many things about the Kodak Gold film (the ISO is 100 so that shouldnt be a problem for the P30) but then there is the Adorama DX-coded film. What would you choose for this camera? I plan to be shooting pics macros outside and inside with a positioned light so I don't think I need much more than 100 ISO. Thanks.... again
Posted 07/09/2004 - 10:38
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Hallo Jacob,
I haven't used Vivitar lens so I can't say anything about it. If there is "Vivitar Series 1" written on your lens, then it's one of their high quality products. The best way to answer your questions is to give it a try. Take picture as much as you can. At the end, either you like it or not, it is your decision.
About film, I prefer to use slides. In my oppinion slides give better result than negative, but require more precise exposures.
Regards,
mrz
I haven't used Vivitar lens so I can't say anything about it. If there is "Vivitar Series 1" written on your lens, then it's one of their high quality products. The best way to answer your questions is to give it a try. Take picture as much as you can. At the end, either you like it or not, it is your decision.
About film, I prefer to use slides. In my oppinion slides give better result than negative, but require more precise exposures.
Regards,
mrz
Posted 10/09/2004 - 15:27
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I just got some prints back yesterday. I am very pleased with the quality of this camera even for its age. I was using Kodak Gold ISO 100 film with this camera and it produced some good images. I do plan to buy a DSLR camera in the near future to replace this one because I don't have the money for make prints all the time. With a digital I can spend a $100 or so on memory (1-2GB) and get nice prints for free after that. One thing about this camera's lens was that it didnt focus to well on close up stuff (about a foot away or less). I do plan to take 4 more rolls of pics with this camera in the near future so ill scan some of the ones that I like and then post them on here to show the results. Thanks.
-j
Posted 10/09/2004 - 17:06
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Hi Jacob
I'd suggest you're being quite optimistic to suggest that you'll merely have to buy memory and get prints for free with a DSLR. Good print paper is still expensive, as are inks, and it can be difficult to set up certain printers, resulting in lost paper and ink. The only benefit you have with digital over film is the removal of the need to buy and process film. I shoot black and white almost exclusively nowadays, and I only print the negs I'm happy with - in this respect, paper costs are practically identical to digital. Film isn't too expensive to buy and dev (around £2.50 per film) but it does add up and it can be a pain.
As a further thought, if you want to save money you can use slide film which allows you to evaluate each slide in turn (you end up with a 'positive')and only print those you like - slide developing is a bit pricey, but removes the need to get prints done for each negative as is the case for most minilabs. You can also pool your cash into 2 or 3 really decent, large prints rather than 36/37 6 by 4 negative prints. Slide film is generally regarded as higher quality than negative, but can be more tricky to scan into a computer.
As for close focus, that sounds quite normal - more expensive lenses typically focus closer, if you can focus down to 12 inches that isn't bad at all - if the vivitar is a series 1 it's quite a good lens, although most of the others in the vivitar range are ok as well. Does your lens have any markings such as 1:2 or 1:3 on it?
Cheers
Matt
I'd suggest you're being quite optimistic to suggest that you'll merely have to buy memory and get prints for free with a DSLR. Good print paper is still expensive, as are inks, and it can be difficult to set up certain printers, resulting in lost paper and ink. The only benefit you have with digital over film is the removal of the need to buy and process film. I shoot black and white almost exclusively nowadays, and I only print the negs I'm happy with - in this respect, paper costs are practically identical to digital. Film isn't too expensive to buy and dev (around £2.50 per film) but it does add up and it can be a pain.
As a further thought, if you want to save money you can use slide film which allows you to evaluate each slide in turn (you end up with a 'positive')and only print those you like - slide developing is a bit pricey, but removes the need to get prints done for each negative as is the case for most minilabs. You can also pool your cash into 2 or 3 really decent, large prints rather than 36/37 6 by 4 negative prints. Slide film is generally regarded as higher quality than negative, but can be more tricky to scan into a computer.
As for close focus, that sounds quite normal - more expensive lenses typically focus closer, if you can focus down to 12 inches that isn't bad at all - if the vivitar is a series 1 it's quite a good lens, although most of the others in the vivitar range are ok as well. Does your lens have any markings such as 1:2 or 1:3 on it?
Cheers
Matt
Posted 10/10/2004 - 06:53
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ive got that camera two - it confuses the shit out of me. i think i have a HYCHL SICOR lens or sumthing the writing isd hard to read ( 35 - 75mm) it says macro down the bottom. i read the manual but i still cant figure out what to do with the shutter dial :S Please help!
Posted 10/10/2004 - 08:39
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i think the lens i because it says it on it and on the s cap for the back (the bit that connects to camera it says ka).
Posted 11/10/2004 - 15:08
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The K refers to K-Mount
and the A Refers to Auto-Aperture.
and the A Refers to Auto-Aperture.
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