pentax kx meter fault can you help

hello,i have a pentax kx but am having problems with the meter,it is stuck on 1000,have tried new batteries but with no success,can anyone tell me if this is a major problem,and if it is worth repairing.

It's a long shot, but do check that the lens is seated properly - remove it and refit it securely, just in case the linkage was not connecting properly. Is the battery inserted the correct way round? Other than that, a quote for repair looks likely to be needed. KX's in good condition seem to have quite high asking prices, so a repair may well be worth while, on the other hand an MX could probably be found for the cost of the repair. It's always a tough choice with cameras of this age.

Do you have the rapid wind lever in the pre-advance position the meter will not work if the lever is flat agaist the body.

Do you have the rapid wind lever in the pre-advance position the meter will not work if the lever is flat agaist the body.

Do you have the rapid wind lever in the pre-advance position the meter will not work if the lever is flat agaist the body.

Do you have the rapid wind lever in the pre-advance position the meter will not work if the lever is flat agaist the body.

There is a small lever in the lens that actuates a tab in the body to tell it where the aperture is. On my KX, the little tab in the body was slightly bent inwards. It would sometimes slip past the lever in the lens.

remove lens and set it to smallest opening (f22) and see how the lever has moved to the very end of the opening. This lever has to go in between the end of the slot and the tab in the body. When the lever is moved downwards by opening the aperture, the tab in the body is forced downwards.

To prevent the slipping, I very gently bent the tab in th e body towards the OUTSIDE of the lens opening. There is now an 1/16 to 1/32 inch gap between the little tab and the camera body proper.

Use a relaively blunt object to depress the tab towards the perimeter of the lens opening. I used the very end of a wooden spool handle. Very little pressure is required, so don't get too exuberant. look twice and think about the dimensions you have.

As always, this advice is worth what it cost. What worked for me may not work for you. I accept NO responsibility for any damage to your camera or any other misfortune that befalls you because this advice.

Good luck in you ventures...




mike .

Hey Mike,

I have a KX that works just great (that camera is my favorite SLR body right now), and a K2DMD that is jammed on one shutter speed. No matter how I adjust the shutter-speed (including the auto setting), the shutter trips at that one speed. I'm guessing this speed is about 1/8 second.

I'm wondering if it's possible that my DMD has the same problem you mentioned about the KX--with a slightly bent tab which engages the aperture ring on lenses? If so, how could I tell for sure?

BTW: I absolve you of any responsibility. If I'm in doubt I'll just take it to a professional shop for repair.

Thanks,

Tom.

Hi Tom and Paul,
The K2 had an electronic shutters whilst the other Ks all had mechanical ones. I would suspect the problem with the K2 is different.

On the KX problem, does the battery check work. If not it would appear to be a meter problem rather than a lens mount problem. If it is a camera problem Michael Spencer does a full service on that sort of amera for about £36.50. That is certainly cheaper than a replacement body and you won't be risking dodgy seals etc. The Ks are just getting to the stage (about 30 years) when the seals end up as a sticky mess. I know cos mine has just gone. KXs do seem to be increasing in value at the moment (unlike most). I suspect that it is because they were overlooked with the "cult" of K1000s and MXs. They do stil seem to be a lot cheaper than the MXs. I recently got a near mint KX from Jessops in Bath for £79 with a 12 month warrenty. You won't get an MX in that condition at any where near that price. Besides which the KX is by far the better camera