Panning query
Posted 11/01/2007 - 11:25
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Hi Peetle,
Whistler looks gorgeous, and I see they've had over 28 feet of snow since the beginning of November (I had no idea where Whistler is, so had to google it ), looks like you're in for a good time!
I've not tried shooting skiers, but assuming you've got a week or more out there, you should be able to refine your technique over your holiday. You said "Normally one can faff about (I love digital preview) with a few practice shots but of course I won't get that opportunity", but could you not grab a few shots of other skiers first, before going for your best ones with your mates?
Would you be shooting in sun or overcast? If sunny, your estimated exposure would be too much (using the 'sunny 16' rule, at ISO 100 you'd want an aperture of f/16 at around 1/125s). For slower shutter speeds, it might be worth trying a polariser to lose 2 stops, and perhaps cut down on glare too.
Of course, it depends on just how fast your companions are going!
Good luck, and have a great holiday.
Dan
Whistler looks gorgeous, and I see they've had over 28 feet of snow since the beginning of November (I had no idea where Whistler is, so had to google it ), looks like you're in for a good time!
I've not tried shooting skiers, but assuming you've got a week or more out there, you should be able to refine your technique over your holiday. You said "Normally one can faff about (I love digital preview) with a few practice shots but of course I won't get that opportunity", but could you not grab a few shots of other skiers first, before going for your best ones with your mates?
Would you be shooting in sun or overcast? If sunny, your estimated exposure would be too much (using the 'sunny 16' rule, at ISO 100 you'd want an aperture of f/16 at around 1/125s). For slower shutter speeds, it might be worth trying a polariser to lose 2 stops, and perhaps cut down on glare too.
Of course, it depends on just how fast your companions are going!
Good luck, and have a great holiday.
Dan
Posted 11/01/2007 - 11:26
Link
Peetle,
I can't help you with speeds, but after years of (trying) to shoot sports car, dirt track races, I have one little tip. Even if your shot is slightly out of focus or motion-blurred, if your subject is entering the frame rather than leaving it (as happens all too often), your picture will be way more acceptable.
These are high speed action shots after all, and the blur often adds drama.
I finally got my shot of a lifetime (or so I thought) of a little Spitfire screaming down the back straightaway. Perfectly composed, perfectly in focus, panned exactly. - and boring as hell. It looked like it was posed in front of a blurred backdrop.
Most of all, make sure you don't get run over by an out of control skiier who is so discombobulated by you waiting there with a camera that he/she loses concentration. Skiiers tend to go where they're looking!
Most important of all - HAVE FUN!
I can't help you with speeds, but after years of (trying) to shoot sports car, dirt track races, I have one little tip. Even if your shot is slightly out of focus or motion-blurred, if your subject is entering the frame rather than leaving it (as happens all too often), your picture will be way more acceptable.
These are high speed action shots after all, and the blur often adds drama.
I finally got my shot of a lifetime (or so I thought) of a little Spitfire screaming down the back straightaway. Perfectly composed, perfectly in focus, panned exactly. - and boring as hell. It looked like it was posed in front of a blurred backdrop.
Most of all, make sure you don't get run over by an out of control skiier who is so discombobulated by you waiting there with a camera that he/she loses concentration. Skiiers tend to go where they're looking!
Most important of all - HAVE FUN!
Mac from Montreal
SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.
SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.
Posted 11/01/2007 - 12:51
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Remember to turn off SR when panning
Posted 26/01/2007 - 11:49
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Thanks for the tips - space ahead of the subject is a good one.
In the end I didn't take the K10D up the hill; the weather was pretty murky most of the time and I seemed to have forgotten how to ski. However, I got one or two decent shots with it around the village. I'm quite keen on this one. As ever, any criticism is welcome:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=363717652&size=o
K10D + 16-45.
In the end I didn't take the K10D up the hill; the weather was pretty murky most of the time and I seemed to have forgotten how to ski. However, I got one or two decent shots with it around the village. I'm quite keen on this one. As ever, any criticism is welcome:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=363717652&size=o
K10D + 16-45.
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10 posts
19 years
London,
UK
One of the things I'd like to have a go at is taking panning shots of my companions as they whizz past me. Anyone have any recommendations for shutter speeds, apertures, focus modes, etc ?
My thinking is I'd need about 1/60 and F11 or so (and use TAv to let the K10D decide the ISO). Not forgetting +1.5 exposure to take the snow into account. Oh and anti-shake off and continuous drive in the hope I move smoothly for at least one shot. I think it will be easier if I'm some distance (10-20 meters) from the subject too.
Normally one can faff about (I love digital preview) with a few practice shots but of course I won't get that opportunity.
Obviously I'll post any decent results here. And thanks in advance.