Organising your photo collection.
Posted 15/01/2004 - 17:47
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Use clear neg sheets (bit bigger than A4) for all negs and unmounted slides.
Devise a coding system that makes sense to you, and then keep a record in a spreadsheet or database prog of all the codes, with additional info (film type/location/date, etc) and textual comments where appropriate. If you devise a sensible code the prgram will be able to very quickly find items fitting any selection criteria you may specify.
The last two digits of the code should be the neg number, so your photos can be stored in packets on which you will simply write the first part of the code.
In due course get a digital camera to which you can attach a slide copier, and copy all negs/slides onto digital so you can view them quickly on computer without having to squint at all the negs. Don't try to use a scanner for this - if you've got lots of pictures you will be dead before you finish. I know, I've tried.
For image viewing and simple (but fast) editing, get Irfanview. If you have to use Photoshop you are no longer a photographer but a digital image manipulator. Nothing wrong with that, but they ARE different things. You can of course be both, but personally I prefer to take pictures. Each to his own.
Devise a coding system that makes sense to you, and then keep a record in a spreadsheet or database prog of all the codes, with additional info (film type/location/date, etc) and textual comments where appropriate. If you devise a sensible code the prgram will be able to very quickly find items fitting any selection criteria you may specify.
The last two digits of the code should be the neg number, so your photos can be stored in packets on which you will simply write the first part of the code.
In due course get a digital camera to which you can attach a slide copier, and copy all negs/slides onto digital so you can view them quickly on computer without having to squint at all the negs. Don't try to use a scanner for this - if you've got lots of pictures you will be dead before you finish. I know, I've tried.
For image viewing and simple (but fast) editing, get Irfanview. If you have to use Photoshop you are no longer a photographer but a digital image manipulator. Nothing wrong with that, but they ARE different things. You can of course be both, but personally I prefer to take pictures. Each to his own.
Posted 15/01/2004 - 22:05
Link
Just an addendum to George's comment about scanning...
I scanned my whole slide collection quite easily. I started using a Minolta Scan Dual, then progressed to a Nikon Coolscan IV. However, the trick to quickly scanning large batches of slides and negatives is to use Vuescan ( http://www.hamrick.com ) which is really fantastic for all scanning, including maintaining accurate colour
You just set it up to scan when you insert the slide - it scans away, JPGs, and saves using incremental file numbering. I then used some other tools to thumbnail the collection and provide an html index so I can browse through it all.
Then, when I go back to images I really want to work with, I pull out the raw file, throw it at Photoshop and start working with it - then file it.
Worked for me
Matt
I scanned my whole slide collection quite easily. I started using a Minolta Scan Dual, then progressed to a Nikon Coolscan IV. However, the trick to quickly scanning large batches of slides and negatives is to use Vuescan ( http://www.hamrick.com ) which is really fantastic for all scanning, including maintaining accurate colour
You just set it up to scan when you insert the slide - it scans away, JPGs, and saves using incremental file numbering. I then used some other tools to thumbnail the collection and provide an html index so I can browse through it all.
Then, when I go back to images I really want to work with, I pull out the raw file, throw it at Photoshop and start working with it - then file it.
Worked for me
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 16/01/2004 - 14:03
Link
I'm working traditionaly with prints and negs. Thanks for the advice.
Do you throw all of your 'bad' photos and therefore only store the prints and negs with 'value'?
Do you throw all of your 'bad' photos and therefore only store the prints and negs with 'value'?
Posted 16/01/2004 - 16:31
Link
2LAP H,
Not a direct answer to your question, but if you've not used slide film before then you should be aware of the relative lack of exposure latitude with such films.
They are less tolerant of exposure errors than print film (1-1.5 stops +/- is normally the maximum you can have and still achieve a good result).
The ME Super has an excellent (GPD) metering system but it is only centre-weighted and you should take care to meter from a neutral part of the scene before recomposing - or use a grey card.
Incidentally, the ME does not have a panoramic function (I believe an adapter is available) but if you have access to a camera that does, then landscapes and group shots taken on slide film look terrific when projected onto the 'big screen'.
I often use Fuji Sensia as I find it gives a very natural balance to the colours and therefore 'true to life' images with razor sharp definition.
Not a direct answer to your question, but if you've not used slide film before then you should be aware of the relative lack of exposure latitude with such films.
They are less tolerant of exposure errors than print film (1-1.5 stops +/- is normally the maximum you can have and still achieve a good result).
The ME Super has an excellent (GPD) metering system but it is only centre-weighted and you should take care to meter from a neutral part of the scene before recomposing - or use a grey card.
Incidentally, the ME does not have a panoramic function (I believe an adapter is available) but if you have access to a camera that does, then landscapes and group shots taken on slide film look terrific when projected onto the 'big screen'.
I often use Fuji Sensia as I find it gives a very natural balance to the colours and therefore 'true to life' images with razor sharp definition.
Die my dear doctor, that's the last thing I shall do!
Posted 17/01/2004 - 11:17
Link
Quote:
2LAP H,
Not a direct answer to your question, but if you've not used slide film before then you should be aware of the relative lack of exposure latitude with such films.
They are less tolerant of exposure errors than print film (1-1.5 stops +/- is normally the maximum you can have and still achieve a good result).
The ME Super has an excellent (GPD) metering system but it is only centre-weighted and you should take care to meter from a neutral part of the scene before recomposing - or use a grey card.
Incidentally, the ME does not have a panoramic function (I believe an adapter is available) but if you have access to a camera that does, then landscapes and group shots taken on slide film look terrific when projected onto the 'big screen'.
I often use Fuji Sensia as I find it gives a very natural balance to the colours and therefore 'true to life' images with razor sharp definition.
Hay Kimbo, thanks for the advice. I've been having problems with the meter so sent it off to Pentax to be fixed, any other similar tips would be appreciated!
2LAP H,
Not a direct answer to your question, but if you've not used slide film before then you should be aware of the relative lack of exposure latitude with such films.
They are less tolerant of exposure errors than print film (1-1.5 stops +/- is normally the maximum you can have and still achieve a good result).
The ME Super has an excellent (GPD) metering system but it is only centre-weighted and you should take care to meter from a neutral part of the scene before recomposing - or use a grey card.
Incidentally, the ME does not have a panoramic function (I believe an adapter is available) but if you have access to a camera that does, then landscapes and group shots taken on slide film look terrific when projected onto the 'big screen'.
I often use Fuji Sensia as I find it gives a very natural balance to the colours and therefore 'true to life' images with razor sharp definition.
Posted 18/01/2004 - 15:44
Link
I hope your camera is repaired promptly for you.
The thing to remember about metering is that the 'correct' shutter speed/aperture combination is the same regardless of the camera used, for any given lens.
As with all meters, the ME-Super is calibrated for 18% grey and the GPD cells are particularly good. More sophisticated cameras take into account highlight and shadow areas and compensate for them (with various degrees of success), so you will have to override the ME-Super's readings in tricky lighting situations.
Your camera will attempt to make dark subjects lighter than they really are and vice versa. Metering from green grass, blue sky, concrete or a grey card (18% grey) with the same light that's falling on the subject will eliminate the influence of excessively bright or dull areas.
1/60 of a second at f8 is the same as 1/125 at f4, so you choose the combination you need to reflect your intentions ie. fast shutter to freeze action or prevent camera shake, or small aperture to increase depth of field (focus).
All this depends on the subject matter, the lens, the film speed etc. etc. and you can further tweak the settings via the exposure compensation control. It sounds very complicated and is very much a case of trial and error and the application of experience - use the bracketing technique (one shot under exposed - one normal - one over) if in doubt.
Did you know that you camera (or any basic SLR with manual controls) can be set up to be more accurate and faster than any all singing/all dancing up-to-date model?
First ascertain the 'correct' exposure, then use a technique known as hyperfocal focussing - align the infinity mark (sideways fig. eight) on the focussing ring with your chosen aperture marking on the depth of field scale.
Your camera is now set up for point and shoot photography for the prevailing lighting conditions.
Example;
SMC Pentax-A 1:2 50mm lens
Infinity mark set to f16
All subjects between approx. 2.6m (8 ft) and infinity will be brought into focus upon shutter release and will be correctly exposed providing the light conditions remain stable.
Don't be alarmed if the subject appears out of focus in the viewfinder as it will be brought into focus by the lens stopping down to f16 as you fire the shutter.
For action shots where you want a wide aperture to isolate the subject from the background, you will need to pre-focus the lens on a given point and then pan the camera until the subject reaches that point before pressing the shutter (or momentarily before if the subject is fast moving).
I hope you find these tips helpful and I'm not trying to teach you to "suck eggs" - as they say! (never really understood that saying).
Happy Snapping
Kimbo.
ps. a word on camera shake for hand held shots;
always select a shutter speed that is at least equivalent to the focal length of the lens (preferably higher) ie. 50mm lens - 1/60sec., 125mm lens - 1/125sec. etc.
The thing to remember about metering is that the 'correct' shutter speed/aperture combination is the same regardless of the camera used, for any given lens.
As with all meters, the ME-Super is calibrated for 18% grey and the GPD cells are particularly good. More sophisticated cameras take into account highlight and shadow areas and compensate for them (with various degrees of success), so you will have to override the ME-Super's readings in tricky lighting situations.
Your camera will attempt to make dark subjects lighter than they really are and vice versa. Metering from green grass, blue sky, concrete or a grey card (18% grey) with the same light that's falling on the subject will eliminate the influence of excessively bright or dull areas.
1/60 of a second at f8 is the same as 1/125 at f4, so you choose the combination you need to reflect your intentions ie. fast shutter to freeze action or prevent camera shake, or small aperture to increase depth of field (focus).
All this depends on the subject matter, the lens, the film speed etc. etc. and you can further tweak the settings via the exposure compensation control. It sounds very complicated and is very much a case of trial and error and the application of experience - use the bracketing technique (one shot under exposed - one normal - one over) if in doubt.
Did you know that you camera (or any basic SLR with manual controls) can be set up to be more accurate and faster than any all singing/all dancing up-to-date model?
First ascertain the 'correct' exposure, then use a technique known as hyperfocal focussing - align the infinity mark (sideways fig. eight) on the focussing ring with your chosen aperture marking on the depth of field scale.
Your camera is now set up for point and shoot photography for the prevailing lighting conditions.
Example;
SMC Pentax-A 1:2 50mm lens
Infinity mark set to f16
All subjects between approx. 2.6m (8 ft) and infinity will be brought into focus upon shutter release and will be correctly exposed providing the light conditions remain stable.
Don't be alarmed if the subject appears out of focus in the viewfinder as it will be brought into focus by the lens stopping down to f16 as you fire the shutter.
For action shots where you want a wide aperture to isolate the subject from the background, you will need to pre-focus the lens on a given point and then pan the camera until the subject reaches that point before pressing the shutter (or momentarily before if the subject is fast moving).
I hope you find these tips helpful and I'm not trying to teach you to "suck eggs" - as they say! (never really understood that saying).
Happy Snapping
Kimbo.
ps. a word on camera shake for hand held shots;
always select a shutter speed that is at least equivalent to the focal length of the lens (preferably higher) ie. 50mm lens - 1/60sec., 125mm lens - 1/125sec. etc.
Die my dear doctor, that's the last thing I shall do!
Posted 20/01/2004 - 10:00
Link
[quote="Kimbo"]I hope you find these tips helpful and I'm not trying to teach you to "suck eggs" - as they say! (never really understood that saying).
[quote]
No, I appreciate the comments Kimbo. You can never learn enough, some of your comments have reinforced what I knew already.
I've solved the original problem by following advice in the posts above.
My camera has gone to Pentax UK and so far I'm pretty happy; an estimate in only a few days and well below what I thought it would cost for the repairs and service I asked for. Fingers crossed that all goes to plan!
Thanks Again
[quote]
No, I appreciate the comments Kimbo. You can never learn enough, some of your comments have reinforced what I knew already.
I've solved the original problem by following advice in the posts above.
My camera has gone to Pentax UK and so far I'm pretty happy; an estimate in only a few days and well below what I thought it would cost for the repairs and service I asked for. Fingers crossed that all goes to plan!
Thanks Again
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2277 posts
24 years
Whats the best way that people have found to keep their photographs for easy reference.
At the moment I have a 'portfolio' of my 'best' pics, an album of 'good' photos and an album of photo's that went wrong (so that I can critique them) and ideas in progress. Unfortunately, I have no idea where the negatives for each photo are as they are all piled up in a shoe box.
How do others avoid this problem?
Also I want to take some shots on slide film, but whats the best way of viewing, displaying and storing them so their quick to access?