One picture, dual weather.
Posted 28/08/2007 - 13:37
Link
Ok Tyr,
Standard practice on a shot like this...
* Leave the original background layer alone
* Add a Curves adjustment layer (or Brightness/Contrast etc) and adjust to taste - just concentrate on one part of the image to get it right and ignore the mayhem in the rest of the image.
* Press Ctrl-Del (or Alt-Del depending on your foreground/background colours) to completely hide the effect
* Now pick the gradient mask tool:
- Select the mask "Foreground-to-transparent" (second one in on the default palette)
- Press "D" tp select default fore/background colours (you want white)
- Set the opacity to, say, 30%
- Gradually brush the gradient in on the image. Where it's white the curves will apply.
* When you're happy with that, add another layer and concentrate on another area of the image and repeat the process.
If you want before/after you can:
* Toggle the visibility of the curves layer
* Alt-Click on the visibility icon of the background to see a complete before/after
You can also adjust the overall opacity of any layer to reduce the effect.
I find this method amazingly quick to adjust any localised issues and regularly use it with curves (usually with the layer blend mode set to "Luminosity" so it doesn't create colour shifts), and colour-balance layers.
Have fun
Matt
Standard practice on a shot like this...
* Leave the original background layer alone
* Add a Curves adjustment layer (or Brightness/Contrast etc) and adjust to taste - just concentrate on one part of the image to get it right and ignore the mayhem in the rest of the image.
* Press Ctrl-Del (or Alt-Del depending on your foreground/background colours) to completely hide the effect
* Now pick the gradient mask tool:
- Select the mask "Foreground-to-transparent" (second one in on the default palette)
- Press "D" tp select default fore/background colours (you want white)
- Set the opacity to, say, 30%
- Gradually brush the gradient in on the image. Where it's white the curves will apply.
* When you're happy with that, add another layer and concentrate on another area of the image and repeat the process.
If you want before/after you can:
* Toggle the visibility of the curves layer
* Alt-Click on the visibility icon of the background to see a complete before/after
You can also adjust the overall opacity of any layer to reduce the effect.
I find this method amazingly quick to adjust any localised issues and regularly use it with curves (usually with the layer blend mode set to "Luminosity" so it doesn't create colour shifts), and colour-balance layers.
Have fun
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 28/08/2007 - 13:44
Link
I just got rid of the shadows by hand using selection and the fill light as if it is going to be 'dull' then it should only have very soft shadows not hard ones.
I only have Elements 2 so anything that requires masking and blending layers is harder to do (HDR is impossible as it only allows 8-bit editing, but that is a different story).
I have a gradient but can't find any way to mask foreground to transparent
I only have Elements 2 so anything that requires masking and blending layers is harder to do (HDR is impossible as it only allows 8-bit editing, but that is a different story).
I have a gradient but can't find any way to mask foreground to transparent
Posted 28/08/2007 - 13:46
Link
Very quick go at modding...
http://www.pbase.com/image/84631574

Several layers: curves, brightness/contrast, gaussian blur layer set to "multiply" and masked, colour balance (there's a green cast in the image).
Hope that gives an idea
Matt
http://www.pbase.com/image/84631574

Several layers: curves, brightness/contrast, gaussian blur layer set to "multiply" and masked, colour balance (there's a green cast in the image).
Hope that gives an idea
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 28/08/2007 - 13:52
Link
Tyr,
Elements 2 is no problem
www.hiddenelements.com has the set of missing tools for Elements (curves, colour balance) etc. Hope they're still there as I used them a LOT before going to full Photoshop.
You can probably pick up a copy of Richard Lynch's "Hidden Elements for Elements 2" (or whatever it's called) - should include the CD with the plugins.
You should be able to pick the gradient tool, then in the tool bar (underneath the menu bar) you should see a drop-down combo box. Foreground to transparent should be the second in that list
Masking is perfectly possible too in Elements (Just different).
There is an "Add Layer Mask" plugin for Elements, but you can also use another type of masking that is outlined on my website for Elements... check that out first!
EDIT: One method you can use if shot in RAW is to develop two JPG files in your RAW converter. One for each "side" of the image and then use layers in Elements to bring the two JPGs on top of each other. Then add a clipping mask and gradients to blend the two exposures. This method will often suffice instead of going full HDR (which, believe me, you don't want to do unless you've got a lot of time and patience on your hands!).
Links: http://www.photon.me.uk/PSE/PaintingPSE.htm and http://www.photon.me.uk/PS/ps_layers_tutorial_1.htm
HTH!
Matt
Elements 2 is no problem
www.hiddenelements.com has the set of missing tools for Elements (curves, colour balance) etc. Hope they're still there as I used them a LOT before going to full Photoshop.
You can probably pick up a copy of Richard Lynch's "Hidden Elements for Elements 2" (or whatever it's called) - should include the CD with the plugins.
You should be able to pick the gradient tool, then in the tool bar (underneath the menu bar) you should see a drop-down combo box. Foreground to transparent should be the second in that list
Masking is perfectly possible too in Elements (Just different).
There is an "Add Layer Mask" plugin for Elements, but you can also use another type of masking that is outlined on my website for Elements... check that out first!
EDIT: One method you can use if shot in RAW is to develop two JPG files in your RAW converter. One for each "side" of the image and then use layers in Elements to bring the two JPGs on top of each other. Then add a clipping mask and gradients to blend the two exposures. This method will often suffice instead of going full HDR (which, believe me, you don't want to do unless you've got a lot of time and patience on your hands!).
Links: http://www.photon.me.uk/PSE/PaintingPSE.htm and http://www.photon.me.uk/PS/ps_layers_tutorial_1.htm
HTH!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 28/08/2007 - 14:21
Link
[img]http://lh3.google.com/tyr.francoperlak/RtQhc0mj45I/AAAAAAAAApk/hQTMWcQ6O1g/s800/...%20Castle.jpg[img]
EDIT: I don't know why the link is not working http://picasaweb.google.com/tyr.francoperlak/York/photo#5103741056758047634
That is what I've got so far, much better transition, just needs a few adjustments.
My OH's uncle has a CS2 licence he doesn't use and has offered it up. I'll get it next time I'm down that way as well as the install disk. It is easier to navigate and find the tools you need. It is also rather handy as it supports 16-bit editing
I am going to see if final adjustments I want can be made in Lightroom.
EDIT: I don't know why the link is not working http://picasaweb.google.com/tyr.francoperlak/York/photo#5103741056758047634
That is what I've got so far, much better transition, just needs a few adjustments.
My OH's uncle has a CS2 licence he doesn't use and has offered it up. I'll get it next time I'm down that way as well as the install disk. It is easier to navigate and find the tools you need. It is also rather handy as it supports 16-bit editing
I am going to see if final adjustments I want can be made in Lightroom.
Posted 28/08/2007 - 14:45
Link
Still a bit "flat" and lacking contrast, IMHO... and think you should've masked out the grass on the LHS as it's got very dark.
THB I rarely work in 16-bit unless I know I'm going to really slam an image. For most general shots I process in Silkypix to high quality JPG in AdobeRGB and tweak in Photoshop (my edited PSD files are usually in the order of 200Mb each, so 16-bit would double that). I'm already getting a size problem
Matt
THB I rarely work in 16-bit unless I know I'm going to really slam an image. For most general shots I process in Silkypix to high quality JPG in AdobeRGB and tweak in Photoshop (my edited PSD files are usually in the order of 200Mb each, so 16-bit would double that). I'm already getting a size problem
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 28/08/2007 - 14:56
Link
It is a little flat, especially on the dark side but haing looked at your quick attempt, that has far too much contrast. Looking at it on screen or printing it to view would be quite nasty as the dark parts are very dark and the saturation is though the roof!
Still has a little way to go, I'll go back to it later... Places to be...
Still has a little way to go, I'll go back to it later... Places to be...
Posted 28/08/2007 - 15:08
Link
Quote:
...your quick attempt, that has far too much contrast. Looking at it on screen or printing it to view would be quite nasty as the dark parts are very dark and the saturation is though the roof!
I said it was quick (couple of minutes max) and I'm probably in an "acid-coloured smartie" mood anyway ...your quick attempt, that has far too much contrast. Looking at it on screen or printing it to view would be quite nasty as the dark parts are very dark and the saturation is though the roof!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 28/08/2007 - 15:09
Link
Posted 28/08/2007 - 15:17
Link
I can't comment on the photoshopping aspects, but the last pic is better than the top one but i think the left side of the castle should have stronger shadows and be much darker than the right to achieve what I think you want to achieve.
there is also a lighter edge to the right side of the castle and the blue sky is too blue for my taste. maybe lighter?
there is also a lighter edge to the right side of the castle and the blue sky is too blue for my taste. maybe lighter?
Please call me aj,
I use a Pentax K10D, on a MacBook with LightRoom (vers 1.3 + beta 2)
http://www.ba-joseph.co.uk/gallery
I use a Pentax K10D, on a MacBook with LightRoom (vers 1.3 + beta 2)
http://www.ba-joseph.co.uk/gallery
Posted 28/08/2007 - 15:17
Link
Quote:
Still, there is something odd/wrong about the castle.
Looks like you've applied quite a hard mask across exactly half the frame - in fact I can see the dividing line Still, there is something odd/wrong about the castle.
You should be able to paint with a soft black brush to hide the effect on the castle - it's gone "neurgh" and flat and grey.
Hint: you can paint with a harder edge brush and then run a gaussian blur on the layer-mask itself to soften the transition.
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
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2176 posts
19 years
West Midlands
I darkened one side to exaggerate this but I'm not too sure I'm happy with the result. I like the idea but I think I need to put a little more time into it. It is not perfect but some opinions on what I am trying to do would be nice.
(Removed because link no longer exists.)
I'm working on a better version as we speak but some input before I finish would be good.
Dan
https://www.flickr.com/photos/honourabletyr/