Old 28mm MF lens on K100D Super - overexposed pics
Posted 11/03/2015 - 11:28 - Helpful Comment
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That's not looking too bad really .... You don't have multi-segment metering with an older a series lens, that doesn't work (it will default to centre-weighed - although the meter mode symbol will not change) . That probably explains why the exposures are really set for the shadowed ground, accurate for that.
It's a case I think of getting used to this metering and working with it ... It's a bright sky, so you either need to point upward more while half pressing the shutter to get a reading, or use exposure compensation .... Maybe minus 1.5 -2 stops would give you a decent sky, then you'll have to raise the shadow areas later because the dynamic range is high.
Try a few shots with more even lighting, no sky, and see what the meter centre does. A bit of experimenting will soon get you sensing the right adjustments to make quickly.
I am assuming that your lens aperture ring was set to a and that the aperture was stopping down to what you set .
It's a case I think of getting used to this metering and working with it ... It's a bright sky, so you either need to point upward more while half pressing the shutter to get a reading, or use exposure compensation .... Maybe minus 1.5 -2 stops would give you a decent sky, then you'll have to raise the shadow areas later because the dynamic range is high.
Try a few shots with more even lighting, no sky, and see what the meter centre does. A bit of experimenting will soon get you sensing the right adjustments to make quickly.
I am assuming that your lens aperture ring was set to a and that the aperture was stopping down to what you set .
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Posted 11/03/2015 - 15:01
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Been using this lens recently. Its just a matter of playing around with the ap, sp and iso till you get the result your looking for.keep at it you will get there and you will love the outcome.
Regards Ian
Regards Ian
Posted 11/03/2015 - 16:42
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The problem is that the meter has read the foreground and exposed for that, thus blowing out the distant highlight areas. You can avoid this by dialing in some exposure compensation, maybe starting at -0.3EV and moving down from there to see where you reach the desired exposure. Then you can take this into account for next time. If you go too far the foreground won't be right, but it's a matter of experience.
With different subjects than these you might find less of a problem. Try some close ups of flowers and other closer subjects where the light is more even.
With different subjects than these you might find less of a problem. Try some close ups of flowers and other closer subjects where the light is more even.
Best regards, John
Posted 11/03/2015 - 16:59
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Old MF lenses behave inconsistently on DSLRs, in my experience. There's just no telling. Some require negative or positive exposure some or all of the time. You just have to get used to it. At least you can check the exposure, adjust and re-shoot if necessary.
As Nigel says, these aren't awful in that the shadows have plenty of detail. If shot in RAW, you should be able to recover a fair amount of detail.
I use my K100D Super a great deal and usually with old, legacy lenses. My favourite is an all manual Pentax M 28mm 3.5 which, curiously works very well exposure-wise (see below). Automatic aperture lenses are, paradoxically, by far the worst .
Keep trying.
As Nigel says, these aren't awful in that the shadows have plenty of detail. If shot in RAW, you should be able to recover a fair amount of detail.
I use my K100D Super a great deal and usually with old, legacy lenses. My favourite is an all manual Pentax M 28mm 3.5 which, curiously works very well exposure-wise (see below). Automatic aperture lenses are, paradoxically, by far the worst .
Keep trying.
Best wishes,
Andrew
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Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Posted 15/03/2015 - 22:27
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Thanks a lot for the comments and advice, everyone. I tried a few shots at the same location in similar light, this time pointing at the sky to meter, and got much better results. I tried some indoor flash pics today though and got one or two disappointingly overexposed shots. Furthermore I'm frequently getting out-of-focus shots when focusing at closer than infinity, even when using trap focus! I hope my failing eyesight wouldn't have a problem with a traditional focusing screen, but I bought some 35mm film and a pair of batteries for my old Program A last week so I'll soon find out.
I think the autofocus 35mm might be the answer, or possibly to keep the SLR for those occasions I'm happy to carry a zoom around and invest in a good compact with a viewfinder.
I think the autofocus 35mm might be the answer, or possibly to keep the SLR for those occasions I'm happy to carry a zoom around and invest in a good compact with a viewfinder.
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96 posts
16 years
I wanted to try my old SMC Pentax-A 28mm F2.8 as a more compact if less versatile alternative to the usual zoom, so I attached it to my K100D Super and took it outside to take a few test pics. Unfortunately the results are none too pleasing - quite overexposed, with the sky being completely blown out in some cases. I've attached two of the worse ones.
Is this to be expected? I was using multi-segment metering, and Auto set both on lens and camera. What's the best approach to overcome this? Images are resized but otherwise untouched. Grateful for any suggestions.