Not enough power


DaveHolmes

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 01:05
I needed more flash power today (when using reflective umbrella) and had to tie my YN-560 to my 285hv with a bit of cable...

I really love the portability of hotshoe flashguns but think that at some point I may need a more powerful flash...

Does anyone have any ideas on a suitable (budget) studio strobe with a powerpack for portability... ?

To be honest I'm not sure what to look at... Zack Arias's 'OneLight' video suggests AlienBees but they're not availible from any UK suppliers... What's the British alternative?

Cheers
Dave
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/

pentaxian450

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 02:54
I think if you needed that much power, you had the wrong lighting set up for the subject you wanted to photograph. Generally, the umbrella is close enough to the subject that you don't need such power, unless you're trying to photograph an Airbus A-380 in a studio. And then, one flash and one umbrella would be unsuitable...Maybe if we knew what you were trying to photograph, we could come up with an alternative solution...
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)

DaveHolmes

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 09:31
It was 2 guitarists in a room full of instuments... Flash bounced off the ceiling was fine at 1/1 ISO100 but lost a lot of power (2 stops) when using the reflective... I wanted an aperture of f8 so had to bump the ISO up to 400...
If I'd've wanted f11 with the one light I'd've had to ISO800 witch would have caused more work post...
As it was I got ISO200 at f8 but tying the YN560 to the Vivitar gun...

In a more normal portrait situation I'd've had the brolly much closer to the subjects but in the space used that just wasn't an option as the scene was also crucial to what they wanted...

I'm the first to admit I have a lot to learn but I consistantly wish I had a little bit more juice in terms of light...

Cheers
Dave
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/

JohnX

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 10:31
Can't remember which - Benvie, Noton or Hoddinott - but one of these guys uses battery 'studio' kit for field photography. Might be worth researching?

If I can I'll scan through my various books and see if I can find the references/kit.

MattMatic

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 10:45
I've got a Metz 50MZ5 (GN of 70 @ 105mm) which is still portable, and kicks out a painful amount of light (It's looking for a new home )

If you want to retain any room 'ambience', then personally I'd look at other methods rather than trying to get a portable 'sun'

But ISO800 shouldn't involve much post production work... I now regularly use ISO3200 on the K-5 and it's no bother at all when working in RAW with Lightroom 3

Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

gartmore

Link Posted 27/06/2011 - 15:16
Most studio flash heads are portable. OK you cant stuff them in your bag but you're taking stands and brollies! Calumet own brand heads have battery options as do the far more expensive Bowens and Profoto ones.

You'll have to do your own searching but I'd check to see if Quantum do a battery option for your flash. It wont be cheap but power/quality/reliability never is. My Quantum set up with my very ancient Pentax flashguns delivers 1000 flashes per charge and re-cycle times that can allow 3 shots per second.

These days, I take GNs with a very large pinch of salt, there are far too many variables which is why pro studio heads rarely talk about them.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -

Dangermouse

Link Posted 04/07/2011 - 20:10
Have a look for the Metz 45CL-1 (not the CT-1 as some of those have trigger voltages which can fry DSLRs). Plenty of power, has a bounce/swivel head, and can be found used for £30. Might need a new battery pack but mine seems ok so far on the original Nicads (included a charger). They also made diffuser and telephoto attachments, the diffuser essentially being a pale plastic panel and bracket which bounce the flash forwards after you point it upward.
Matt

Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.

Mannesty

Link Posted 04/07/2011 - 23:03
MattMatic wrote:
... I now regularly use ISO3200 on the K-5 and it's no bother at all when working in RAW with Lightroom 3

I thought you were a Silkypix devotee Matt, have you ditched it now in favour of Lightroom?
Peter E Smith

My flickr Photostream

rparmar

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 01:37
DaveHolmes wrote:
I wanted an aperture of f8 so had to bump the ISO up to 400.

Or increase the exposure time? Am I missing something?

Another solution is a second off-camera flash controlled by radio trigger. Not an expert but it's worked for me.
Listen to my albums free on BandCamp. Or visit my main website for links to photography, etc.

Don

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 02:13
Elinchrom quadra/ranger are an expensive option... but here's the big question..
WTH are you doing? need more info.

When shooting with flash, you ALWAYS have two light sources ambient and flash.
First you choose which will be your MAIN light and which will be your FILL light...

USUALLY I decide to use a flash for main on my subject, and get the light as close to my subject as possible, then use the ambient as fill. often this technique involves setting up a tripod. Your tripod is like having thousands of watt seconds of lighting units for HUGE areas.... you set that exposure (I often under expose it slightly) FIRST for your ambient, then set your FLASH for your subject.

So I'd say use the tripod to get a base exposure, then add some flash to light your subjects.

I've shot portraits at iso 800, f8, 1/8 sec with a brollie mounted af 360 fgz with power to spare....
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 05/07/2011 - 02:15

thoughton

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 02:14
rparmar wrote:
DaveHolmes wrote:
I wanted an aperture of f8 so had to bump the ISO up to 400.

Or increase the exposure time? Am I missing something?.

Increasing the exposure time will only affect the parts of the photo lit by ambient light. The subject is presumably lit by the flash, so shutter speed has no effect.
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!

Don

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 02:18
thoughton wrote:
rparmar wrote:
Quote:
I wanted an aperture of f8 so had to bump the ISO up to 400.

Or increase the exposure time? Am I missing something?.

Increasing the exposure time will only affect the parts of the photo lit by ambient light. The subject is presumably lit by the flash, so shutter speed has no effect.

exactly what he needs to do, if he doesn't want to spend three grand on lighting.
if he has to skip the brollie and shoot with hard light, he can always soften parts in post.
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 05/07/2011 - 02:19

rparmar

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 04:38
thoughton wrote:
Increasing the exposure time will only affect the parts of the photo lit by ambient light. The subject is presumably lit by the flash, so shutter speed has no effect.

Unless he's shooting in the dark, the subject is presumably lit by both.
Listen to my albums free on BandCamp. Or visit my main website for links to photography, etc.

thoughton

Link Posted 05/07/2011 - 11:33
Hmm, are you pulling my leg?
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!

rob1234

Link Posted 08/07/2011 - 17:56
Dangermouse wrote:
Have a look for the Metz 45CL-1 (not the CT-1 as some of those have trigger voltages which can fry DSLRs). Plenty of power, has a bounce/swivel head, and can be found used for £30. Might need a new battery pack but mine seems ok so far on the original Nicads (included a charger). They also made diffuser and telephoto attachments, the diffuser essentially being a pale plastic panel and bracket which bounce the flash forwards after you point it upward.

Agreed (I've got two), but if you need even more the Metz 60 is like a cheap portable sun...
ME, Z-1P, K5, LX, ZX-5, 67ii, LX5, RX100
Add a Comment
You must be registered or logged-in to comment.