Nightclub photography
Posted 18/11/2010 - 16:24
Link
Why do you need such a high ISO? You're shooting with flash and you'll be very close to your subjects.
I would have thought that p-ttl would cope very well at 400 ISO or select a shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/45th.
I cant see you having any problems at all.
I've noticed that the club photographers are usually studenty types and they are always accompanied by the security staff.
I would have thought that p-ttl would cope very well at 400 ISO or select a shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/45th.
I cant see you having any problems at all.
I've noticed that the club photographers are usually studenty types and they are always accompanied by the security staff.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 18/11/2010 - 16:33
Link
thanks for the replies, I will have a good look at the link in a moment.
Gartmore, that was my thoughts at first but I do not the background blacked out. I want the flash (P-TTL as you said) to light the subject (people) but also want the exposure to pick up the background and ambient light in the background.
Gartmore, that was my thoughts at first but I do not the background blacked out. I want the flash (P-TTL as you said) to light the subject (people) but also want the exposure to pick up the background and ambient light in the background.
Posted 18/11/2010 - 16:49 - Helpful Comment
Link
Which nightclub is it? 800 and even 1600 will be fine especially for web use.
I do a lot of work in theatres and the K20d can produce stunning high ISO results.
I do a lot of work in theatres and the K20d can produce stunning high ISO results.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 18/11/2010 - 17:58
Link
Sorry, dont know that one unless its in the basement next to Hellfire shop?
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 18/11/2010 - 20:12 - Helpful Comment
Link
Ken already said it
Also use wireless instead of the flash on the hotshoe, the flash on the hotshoe will give you the same light every single time and that gets boring so be creative.
The stofen would not do so much, the way to soften direct light is to enlarge the flash source (that's why they use umbrellas and softboxes) and the stofen does hardly do that since it's made to disperse the light not enlarging it.
A beauty disc or small softbox are the way to go if you want to soften the direct light a bit.
Also try to use what longer shutter times, the flash will freeze your subjects but the longer shutter speed will capture the background lighting and all the colours of the night club so it at some atmosphere.
You could bumb the iso also a bit up if shutterspeeds gets too long but you can quite stretch that.
Also use wireless instead of the flash on the hotshoe, the flash on the hotshoe will give you the same light every single time and that gets boring so be creative.
The stofen would not do so much, the way to soften direct light is to enlarge the flash source (that's why they use umbrellas and softboxes) and the stofen does hardly do that since it's made to disperse the light not enlarging it.
A beauty disc or small softbox are the way to go if you want to soften the direct light a bit.
Also try to use what longer shutter times, the flash will freeze your subjects but the longer shutter speed will capture the background lighting and all the colours of the night club so it at some atmosphere.
You could bumb the iso also a bit up if shutterspeeds gets too long but you can quite stretch that.
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 18/11/2010 - 20:21
Link
Again, thank you.
Watching throught he videos above, another of my concerns have been addressed .. RS4 strap rather than my horrible standard strap. Is there a cheaper alternative to this that you guys recommend ?
Watching throught he videos above, another of my concerns have been addressed .. RS4 strap rather than my horrible standard strap. Is there a cheaper alternative to this that you guys recommend ?
Posted 18/11/2010 - 20:25
Link
gartmore wrote:
Sorry, dont know that one unless its in the basement next to Hellfire shop?
Behind Primark on Argyll street
Sorry, dont know that one unless its in the basement next to Hellfire shop?
Posted 18/11/2010 - 21:15
Link
Anvh wrote:
The stofen would not do so much, the way to soften direct light is to enlarge the flash source (that's why they use umbrellas and softboxes) and the stofen does hardly do that since it's made to disperse the light not enlarging it.
A beauty disc or small softbox are the way to go if you want to soften the direct light a bit.
I've done it by making a bubble wrap diffuser. Makes a big difference. And yes I would use a flash cord or wireless remote to get the flash off the hotshoe.The stofen would not do so much, the way to soften direct light is to enlarge the flash source (that's why they use umbrellas and softboxes) and the stofen does hardly do that since it's made to disperse the light not enlarging it.
A beauty disc or small softbox are the way to go if you want to soften the direct light a bit.
Quote:
Also try to use what longer shutter times, the flash will freeze your subjects but the longer shutter speed will capture the background lighting and all the colours of the night club so it at some atmosphere.
Yup, slow sync is cool!!
Also try to use what longer shutter times, the flash will freeze your subjects but the longer shutter speed will capture the background lighting and all the colours of the night club so it at some atmosphere.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 18/11/2010 - 21:27
Link
These are the kind of photos you get with longer shutters.
link
link
link
I would set the camera on Manual so you've control over most settings and set the flash on P-TTL.
This way you have full control over the ambient and the flash does all the work to light (freeze) your subjects.
link
link
link
I would set the camera on Manual so you've control over most settings and set the flash on P-TTL.
This way you have full control over the ambient and the flash does all the work to light (freeze) your subjects.
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 19/11/2010 - 00:07
Link
You can also use the on-camera flash to light your main subject, and use the 360 wirelessly to light the background. Using P-TTL with the 360 exposure compensation set to -1 or -1.5 would make sure the background doesn't overpower the main subject, and it would also eliminate the main subject shadow from the background.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
Posted 19/11/2010 - 01:59
Link
Also try 2nd curtain flash or slow synch .
My other 1/2 has got some great results at parties in that way.
MZ
My other 1/2 has got some great results at parties in that way.
MZ
K5, K7, Nikon FA.
AF Lenses: DA15mm Ltd, DA21mm Limited, DA35mmAL, DA50mm f1.8, DA18-55mmWR, FA28-70mm f4AL, DA50-200mmWR,Tamron SP70-200mm f2.8, AF70-300mm LD Di, SP10-24mm, SP90mm Macro.
MF Lenses: SMC-A 50mm, Adaptall 24mm(CW-24), 135mm(03B), 35-70mm(17A) 80-210mm(03A), Micro-Nikkor55mm, Soligor I-S 200mm f2.8 AIS
My Flickr - link
My Photobucket - link
AF Lenses: DA15mm Ltd, DA21mm Limited, DA35mmAL, DA50mm f1.8, DA18-55mmWR, FA28-70mm f4AL, DA50-200mmWR,Tamron SP70-200mm f2.8, AF70-300mm LD Di, SP10-24mm, SP90mm Macro.
MF Lenses: SMC-A 50mm, Adaptall 24mm(CW-24), 135mm(03B), 35-70mm(17A) 80-210mm(03A), Micro-Nikkor55mm, Soligor I-S 200mm f2.8 AIS
My Flickr - link
My Photobucket - link
Posted 19/11/2010 - 09:14
Link
Again thanks for help. Stefan, the images in your links are superb, I would love to get some like this.
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.
177 posts
15 years
The technicalities of the shoot I am okay with and will be using K20D, WR kit lens and AF360FGZ on hotshoe, possibly with stofen.
Images are for web use only so I will downsize to approx 1200 x 800 pixels.
My question is in relation to noise, I want to minimise editing so am hoping to shoot jpeg only and automate most tasks in photoshop. But when it comes to noise (most shots will probably be ISO1200+) I normally use external program.
Questions :-
1) as the main subject will be caught with flash, at this resolution will some noise in the background be noticeable or offensive ?
2) What is the high ISO noise reduction like on the K20D and how much to apply, if using it at all
3) If noise has to be dealt with, what is best way in photoshop ?
Your help is very much appreciated and will help calm my nerves somewhat !