Monitor image vs. new printer

coker
Posted 09/08/2011 - 23:13 Link
i have a new printer, a C---n MG6150, with which I am (generally) pleased.

However, images that look good to me on my computer monitor after PPing in PSE9,( & as posted on Gallery & Your Photos) all print up too dark. I have the monitor calibrated as per the grey scale at the foot of this (& all) PU forum screens.

How do I match them together, it's proving expensive on ink to adjust & then re-print!?

Thanks,

Roger.
The more I look, the more there is to see!
DoctorJeff
Posted 09/08/2011 - 23:33 Link
I found this when I changed from an 17" Flatron to a 22" Flatron monitor, with no other changes in kit. Then I changed PCs, did the monitor calibration thing, and the first printout is still way too dark. The next thing is to go back to the 17" (now on my wife's PC), and see what happens.

Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
Anvh
Posted 10/08/2011 - 06:49 Link
Has to do with the brightness level and with a monitor you're looking into a light source while a paper merely reflect it.
You can hold the paper next to the screen and then adjust the brigthness till the white on the monitor matches the paper.
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
DoctorJeff
Posted 10/08/2011 - 13:45 Link
Anvh wrote:
Has to do with the brightness level and with a monitor you're looking into a light source while a paper merely reflect it.
You can hold the paper next to the screen and then adjust the brigthness till the white on the monitor matches the paper.
That might help - except that paper will only reflect the ambient light. The monitor will both reflect the ambient light and function as an emitter. Ambient light can have a big bearing on the human perception of the monitor display. Change the size of the illuminated area, or the emitting area and you will change the perception of its brightness (or luminance); change the luminance and you will change the perception of its size. Each has an influence on the perceived distance of the area.

Put (say) a small paper sample against a large white area on the screen, and each will have an effect on the perceived luminance of the other. Then, how will this help with an image that has no white at all?
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
johnriley
Posted 10/08/2011 - 13:55 Link
There is no way to totally match a monitor image and a print, any more than a colour slide and a print could be the same.

The thing is to produce vibrant prints when viewed under the lighting conditions that are expected. THis might mnean viewing in daylight, but might not.
Best regards, John
JohnX
Posted 10/08/2011 - 14:02 Link
ColorMunki will calibrate monitor and printer, but £300 or thereabouts.
Edited by JohnX: 10/08/2011 - 14:02
Anvh
Posted 10/08/2011 - 18:26 Link
DoctorJeff wrote:
Put (say) a small paper sample against a large white area on the screen, and each will have an effect on the perceived luminance of the other. Then, how will this help with an image that has no white at all?
Geoff
It's not so hard to create a white image you know
Just make it full screen and adjust.
it's about that the white of the monitor match the white of the paper not that the white of the image is the same with the paper.

And indeed you can't have it match 100% but this the only way to get close though.

JohnX wrote:
ColorMunki will calibrate monitor and printer, but £300 or thereabouts.
That might help if it reads the luminance of the paper and adjust the monitor for that but ain't sure if it does that...


Edit:
Here is a whole read about it by someone who knows what he's talking about.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_da...
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Edited by Anvh: 10/08/2011 - 18:32
davex
Posted 10/08/2011 - 19:25 Link
Had this problem myself.
Got a Huey Pro (think £80)
No problems now, and very easy to use.

Davex.
K5 + 8mm-500mm zooms and primes
Please feel free to play with any images I post.
My flickr: link
coker
Posted 10/08/2011 - 22:16 Link
Thanks for your thoughts, folks!

I'm going to pp my images a tad lighter in PSE9 & print!

That, I'm afraid, is as far as my tech ability or my pocket will stretch at the moment!

Appreciate your help/advice.

Roger.

The more I look, the more there is to see!
DoctorJeff
Posted 10/08/2011 - 23:24 Link
Anvh wrote:
DoctorJeff wrote:
Put (say) a small paper sample against a large white area on the screen, and each will have an effect on the perceived luminance of the other. Then, how will this help with an image that has no white at all?
Geoff
It's not so hard to create a white image you know
Just make it full screen and adjust.
it's about that the white of the monitor match the white of the paper not that the white of the image is the same with the paper.

And indeed you can't have it match 100% but this the only way to get close though.
I think that you have rather missed my point, Stefan.
Yes, creating a full-screen white image is easy - takes just a few seconds (and you can do this in Powerpoint, even). To compare this to a sheet of paper - whether is is a small sample or a large sheet - is not so easy. The human visual system will evaluate each white area in terms of the perception of the other area. The paper white can only be adjusted by altering the ambient light, but the screen can be altered with a mouse click or two. And, whichever you change, the phenomena of colour constancy will also affect your judgement. You can read some of this in the (excellent) Northlight article that you cited.
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...

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