Macro Stack
Posted 10/08/2022 - 00:45
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That came out very OK didn't it?
Posted 10/08/2022 - 01:05
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Dunno.... maybe.... probably.... err.... I'll know when i try it again
Posted 10/08/2022 - 11:41
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Not bad at all for a first attempt . As you've no doubt noticed yourself (so why am I pointing it out?), there's an out of focus band near the top which looks a bit odd. Probably due to not having an image in the stack with that area in focus.
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Posted 10/08/2022 - 13:06
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Lubbyman wrote:
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Z-1p, K-1, P50
F50 1.7. SMC-FAs 24, 35, 50 1.4, 85, 135. HD-FA15-30, DFA24-70, D-FA*70-200. The SMC-FA Limited Trinity.
Metz 45 CL-4, AF500FTZ. AF540FGZ.
Some Mamiya and some Nikon, and a Canon T70.
F50 1.7. SMC-FAs 24, 35, 50 1.4, 85, 135. HD-FA15-30, DFA24-70, D-FA*70-200. The SMC-FA Limited Trinity.
Metz 45 CL-4, AF500FTZ. AF540FGZ.
Some Mamiya and some Nikon, and a Canon T70.
Posted 10/08/2022 - 13:35
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Lubbyman wrote:
Not bad at all for a first attempt . As you've no doubt noticed yourself (so why am I pointing it out?), there's an out of focus band near the top which looks a bit odd. Probably due to not having an image in the stack with that area in focus.
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Oh fer fooks saayk..... (typing yorkshire there)Not bad at all for a first attempt . As you've no doubt noticed yourself (so why am I pointing it out?), there's an out of focus band near the top which looks a bit odd. Probably due to not having an image in the stack with that area in focus.
Beware the second attempt. Focus stacking is a slippery slope, once you're on it there is only one way to go.... You'll get more critical of the final result, start to see stacking artefacts, try to get more control over the final image etc. etc.. And flowers are tricky because they often look more natural with some part out of focus (to do with giving a sense of depth). So which parts do you want in focus and which parts out of focus? And what images do you need to take to get the effect you want? And of course there's the quality of the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus areas. Then eventually you'll want greater magnification, which means greater stability for the camera and subject, so you start looking for new kit (focus rails, geared heads etc.) in order to achieve it. That's the voice of experience speaking (while still sliding down the slope...).
Steve
Is'ya telling me a'gotta spend a fookin' shite lowd'a more money????
I as chuffin' spent a fookin' fortoon benow!!! 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Posted 10/08/2022 - 15:49
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There's a time-honoured tradition in macro-land of making ad-hoc gadgets and gizmos from bits and pieces and rubber bands and of using common items in uncommon ways. It can get you a long way. One of my lighting supports is a retort stand that was in a chemistry set I had as a kid, another is an old microphone stand that belonged to my father when he played in a band (he died 25 years ago). I'm currently making a gadget to help get camera movements as small as 1/25 mm, it's being made out of scrap aluminium sheet, a plastic lid, cardboard, garden wire and an elastic band.
Of course, you can pay £££ for ready made stuff and sometimes there's no reasonable alternative (I draw a line at grinding lenses or precision machining a focus rack...), but even then a reasonably priced used item is likely to appear on an auction site from time to time. The trick is to decide what you really need in order to get the results you want, see if you can knock something up yourself, only buy if you really need it and can't make it, and even then try to buy pre-owned. (I'm not from Yorkshire but my wife is...:wink.
Steve
Of course, you can pay £££ for ready made stuff and sometimes there's no reasonable alternative (I draw a line at grinding lenses or precision machining a focus rack...), but even then a reasonably priced used item is likely to appear on an auction site from time to time. The trick is to decide what you really need in order to get the results you want, see if you can knock something up yourself, only buy if you really need it and can't make it, and even then try to buy pre-owned. (I'm not from Yorkshire but my wife is...:wink.
Steve
Posted 10/08/2022 - 16:05
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Must admit I'm trying to fathom out how to make a diffuser for my macro ring flash....
Posted 10/08/2022 - 16:45
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This site would be worth looking at for some ideas re diffusers http://www.extreme-macro.co.uk/macro-diffusers/
Michael H
Michael H
Posted 10/08/2022 - 17:37
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MHOL190246 wrote:
This site would be worth looking at for some ideas re diffusers http://www.extreme-macro.co.uk/macro-diffusers/
Michael H
Thanks for that.... I'll go and have a look
This site would be worth looking at for some ideas re diffusers http://www.extreme-macro.co.uk/macro-diffusers/
Michael H
Posted 10/08/2022 - 23:28
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While you are there, have a look at nearly all of it. It's a wonderful macro resource.
Posted 11/08/2022 - 08:43
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davidwozhere wrote:
While you are there, have a look at nearly all of it. It's a wonderful macro resource.
100% agree. But don't be put off by the technical detail and fancy equipment on the site. Most of the stuff about lighting is applicable to any macro. However, some other things are mainly aimed at magnification that's greater than 1:1 - 'challenges' build up as magnification increases. For example, the gizmo I'm knocking up to get camera movements of 1/25mm for stacks is because I'm dealing with 5x magnification. Most macro lenses (including yours) go up to 1:1 which needs stack steps of something like 1/4 or 1/2mm, still small but much easier to achieve. And even 1:1 magnification can be too high for many things, including many flowers.While you are there, have a look at nearly all of it. It's a wonderful macro resource.
Steve
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1375 posts
18 years
Me thinks i am in for a steep learning curve!!
First attemp below....