Macro shopping list needed

Sean282
Posted 09/03/2011 - 13:30 Link
Hi Guys

Just to cut through all the google searches and information overload on the web I was hoping those more knowledgeable than myself here would be able to help me complete a shopping list of equipment needed to do some macro photography. I have a K20 & a 50mm/F1.8 Pentacon which I'd like to make use of (reversed) (also have a pentax M 55mm/F1.7). I've read the pentacon works pretty well reversed for macro?

I think I need the following

Extention tubes (which type(s) would you recommend)?
Reversing Ring (49mm)
Some sort of flash bracket
Some sort of flash (and homemade diffuser)


Firstly is that all I need to get started?

Secondly ..can anyone recommend specific gear to buy?

p.s just thought I'd add that I do have an M42 adapter

Many thanks
Mannesty
Posted 09/03/2011 - 14:58 Link
Well your shopping list is about complete but you haven't said what your intended subject(s) are or whether you'll be taking them indoors in a studio type environment, or in the field.

Reversing rings can be had from eBay.

For flash, a ringflash is ideal but can be expensive and you'll need to make the adapter to fit the ringlight to a reversed lens. Pentax did make one but it was horribly expensive.

If you plan to use a conventional hot shoe flash, you'll need to be able to position the light/diffuser over the front of the lens and hence over the top of the subject, or thereabouts.

I'm currently constructing my next flash bracket having tried a few others that have their drawbacks. It'll consist of a CB Mini-RC (made by Custom Brackets - sourced from Warehouse Express), a Manfrotto 819-1 Hydrostatic Arm, a 1/4 female to 3/8 female tripod adapter to join the two together.

The AF540FGZ will have a Lumiquest Softbox fitted and will mount to the Hydro Arm using a Hama ball mount. The flash will be cabled back to the hotshoe to facilitate P-TTL operation but it would probably work wirelessly as well.

I'll post a photo of it when it's complete.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Edited by Mannesty: 09/03/2011 - 15:00
Sean282
Posted 09/03/2011 - 16:35 Link
Thanks Peter

Yes I'll practice indoors and around the house first but ultimately I intend to use it mainly in the field.

As regards the bracket, I was thinking of something like this

link

Your solution looks unnecessarily expensive (were the bits just lying around)?

So I assume any set of extentions tube will do the job or is there good and bad same as the M42 adapter ring?

I presume a separate power pack would be advantageous to keep the flash recycling time to a minimum (if doing focus stacking)?
Mannesty
Posted 09/03/2011 - 16:59 Link
The bracket in your link looks as if it would do the job as long as you can get the flash forward enough, and it's a lot less expensive than my solution which I'm hoping will cater for all lengths of macro lens from a reversed 28mm on the body to a 180mm + bellows + tubes. My longest is the Sigma 180mm and when I add extension tubes and/or bellows, it's quite a stretch, which the Hydro Arm should cope with (I hope).

No, the bits weren't lying around, I bought them. More money than sense some might say, but I do a lot of macro work so I consider it's worth it. We all spend our disposable income in different ways I guess.

Some of the older Jessops tubes have insufficient contacts and may need some paint removed from the contact area. I have a set of Kenko tubes but I think they are quite rare now since Kenko stopped making them.

A separate power pack for the flash might be a bit overkill I think, but if you have the money, yes it'll reduce recycling time.

There are Pentax P-TTL compatible third party ring flashes from Metz and Sigma, you might like to investigate those.

For focus stacking, you'll need a macro sliding rail because ideally you need to move the whole rig, camera and flash, back and forth. Simply refocussing has a similar effect but the magnification changes slightly. You might prefer bellows instead as it is essentially a macro rail with adjustable extension for your lens.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Edited by Mannesty: 09/03/2011 - 17:03
Sean282
Posted 09/03/2011 - 17:26 Link
Looks like a longer arm could be fab'd up quite easily on that bracket if I needed to.

Cheers
beginner
Posted 09/03/2011 - 17:31 Link
Be easier to just buy a decent 90 or 100mm macro lens!...then there would be no need for flash ,brackets ,etc!
K20D...ist DS ,DA18/55,DA16/45.DA* 50/135,"A"1.7 50MM..."A" 70/210..M 50mm f2...Tamron 90mm macro,28/300 Tamron,200/500 Tamron 6.9....A Pentax DA*300... Sigma10/20,FA31mm 1.8 Ltd*********,FA 77mm Ltd!
Sean282
Posted 09/03/2011 - 17:59 Link
I would think the flash and brackets would be needed regardless
xbow
Posted 09/03/2011 - 18:12 Link
You may get away without the bracket but a Flash would be useful.

These are pretty good:

link

Vic.
K5, LightRoom 5
Sigma 8-16 Pentax DA 16-45 Pentax DA 55-300 Pentax 18-55WR Tamron 90 Di Macro Metz 44 AF-1
Mannesty
Posted 09/03/2011 - 18:57 Link
Flash is essential. Macro shots with anything other than minimum DOF need as much light as you can throw on the subject.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
petrochemist
Posted 09/03/2011 - 19:09 Link
I generally find just holding the flash in my left hand & camera in the right works OK. (Bounce flash can sometimes be better with a suitably placed reflector/card)

Extension tubes/bellows aren't necessary to do macro with a reversed lens, but they do give you more magnification. If your reversing the lens directly onto the extension tubes, or only using manual aperture don't work about the tubes with contacts - there only needed for auto aperture (which won't work with reversed lenses).

Using reversed lens stacked on another lens (the way I usually do macro these days) you have the aperture control of the normally mounted lens (which can be auto) and potentially also the auto focus (though the best way to focus is by moving the camera).

The focusing rail is great with the tripod, but I've been too lazy and just handhold, which works OK with a p-TTL flash and multiple trys.

Stacking can help with handheld macro, but the steps tend to be more random so the results aren't as good as when it's done properly with the rail.

Hopefully I'll get round to trying out some of my bellows tomorrow (& the focusing rail too, if I can fin a suitable aria mount for it) Best to make some use of being off work (I had a White balance/focus upgrade for my left eye yesterday)
Mike
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.

.[size=11:].FlickrWPFPanoramio
beginner
Posted 09/03/2011 - 19:12 Link
I've never used one!....we must just have good light in Northumberland..
K20D...ist DS ,DA18/55,DA16/45.DA* 50/135,"A"1.7 50MM..."A" 70/210..M 50mm f2...Tamron 90mm macro,28/300 Tamron,200/500 Tamron 6.9....A Pentax DA*300... Sigma10/20,FA31mm 1.8 Ltd*********,FA 77mm Ltd!
beginner
Posted 09/03/2011 - 19:21 Link
[IMG]http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/af43/kenp6/Ladybird3_1242766896.jpg[/IMG]

Sample!
K20D...ist DS ,DA18/55,DA16/45.DA* 50/135,"A"1.7 50MM..."A" 70/210..M 50mm f2...Tamron 90mm macro,28/300 Tamron,200/500 Tamron 6.9....A Pentax DA*300... Sigma10/20,FA31mm 1.8 Ltd*********,FA 77mm Ltd!
GlynM
Posted 09/03/2011 - 19:27 Link
You might also like to consider a set of close-up lenses. These look a little bit like filters. A standard set is usually +1, +2, +4 and can be stacked, with some loss of quality, to achieve greater magnifications.

While not a patch on a dedicated macro lens they can be a very cheap introduction to macro work.

A summary of macro methods & options is given here.

I have used a 49mm coupling/reversing ring with a FA50 reversed onto a DFA100 and while got a terrific magnification found that the depth of field was very, very, small. I was trying to shoot the head of a pin and was disappointed to find it was not a smooth reflective surface :

[IMG]http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/GlynM/IMGP4915-c1small.jpg[/IMG]

Glyn
Edited by GlynM: 09/03/2011 - 19:45
Mannesty
Posted 09/03/2011 - 22:18 Link
beginner wrote:
I've never used one!....we must just have good light in Northumberland..
You're obviously closer to the sun than I am.

To qualify my "Flash is essential" statement, when you are working very close to your subject, as the OP will be with a reversed lens, more often than not (in my experience) your own body and/or camera will cast a shadow over the subject.

In those situations, flash, or some other additional lighting (reflector), is essential if you want something more than a very narrow depth of field.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 09/03/2011 - 23:24 Link
As far as lighting is concerned, both the AF360 and AF540 have a built in reflector so if you set the angle at 45 degrees and pull out the reflector you may find that for close up use you may not get shadow from the camera and lens. I have only used it with a dedicated macro lens, but not with my recently aquired reversing ring for my 50mm, to which you are very close. However having said that, the flash is far enough above the lens, it will probably be okay.
Also, both the 360 and 540 work wirelessly so if you put the flash on the dedicated stand (included with the 540) and put a stofen diffuser on the end, and a white reflector at 180 degrees you may find that you will have more than enough light for extreme macro to suit.

Hope this helps.
Some Cameras

Add Comment

To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



Proudly supporting Pentax User

Samsung Logo Asahi Pentax Logo