Macro shooting..
Posted 29/07/2014 - 16:29 - Helpful Comment
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For the highest quality, a macro lens.
Other techniques are close up lenses (cheap and good when main lens stopped down), bellows, extension tubes - you need a good book on macro techniques.
Don't forget compact cameras though, such as the MX-1. The close up/macro modes on these can get very, very close and the results can be amazing.
Other techniques are close up lenses (cheap and good when main lens stopped down), bellows, extension tubes - you need a good book on macro techniques.
Don't forget compact cameras though, such as the MX-1. The close up/macro modes on these can get very, very close and the results can be amazing.
Best regards, John
Posted 29/07/2014 - 16:53
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Thanks John, I'll do some homework and then try to pick up a suitable macro lens...
Follow me, I'm right behind you...
Posted 29/07/2014 - 17:45 - Helpful Comment
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There isn't a "best way".... just different
An old manual lens with aperture ring on a reversing adapter can be astonishingly good (50mm or 28mm). BUT the exposed element of the lens has to be incredibly close to the subject.
Extension tubes are helpful for making a good lens 'short-sighted'. For example, it's helpful to get a touch closer with the DA*50-135. Results are great, and not limited to macro (just getting a bit closer).
Extension tubes with a reversed lens gets silly... but fun to try.
Dedicated macro lenses are helpful for close detail, but taken further away (e.g. 180mm macro lens will get detail from further away).
Closest and cheapest option is a K-mount reversing ring, and a good prime (doesn't have to be Pentax )
Next option is extension tubes, but watch out for the various issues with stop-down-metering and electronic control pins on DA*/DA series lenses (search the forum here).
And there is always the Raynox type clip-on adapters that can give pleasant results. The cheaper devices tend to "bloom" at wide apertures and can have significant distortions. But they're easy to fit in the field.
Hope that helps!
Matt
An old manual lens with aperture ring on a reversing adapter can be astonishingly good (50mm or 28mm). BUT the exposed element of the lens has to be incredibly close to the subject.
Extension tubes are helpful for making a good lens 'short-sighted'. For example, it's helpful to get a touch closer with the DA*50-135. Results are great, and not limited to macro (just getting a bit closer).
Extension tubes with a reversed lens gets silly... but fun to try.
Dedicated macro lenses are helpful for close detail, but taken further away (e.g. 180mm macro lens will get detail from further away).
Closest and cheapest option is a K-mount reversing ring, and a good prime (doesn't have to be Pentax )
Next option is extension tubes, but watch out for the various issues with stop-down-metering and electronic control pins on DA*/DA series lenses (search the forum here).
And there is always the Raynox type clip-on adapters that can give pleasant results. The cheaper devices tend to "bloom" at wide apertures and can have significant distortions. But they're easy to fit in the field.
Hope that helps!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 29/07/2014 - 18:47 - Helpful Comment
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As Matt says, there are lots of ways with Macro photography. A true macro lens is the easiest option, but I'm not sure if it produces the highest quality as John has said. I've experimented with all manner of different lenses and techniques and the highest quality results have been obtained by using a butchered FA 28-80 zoom lens (all glass removed, but aperture still working) and a Nikkor EL 50mm F2.8 enlarging lens reversed onto the front of the FA zoom. That's all getting a bit technical, but it produces results that are (a) a lot higher magnification) and (b) better quality than a macro lens can achieve.
Macro lenses also vary tremendously, the Pentax 100mm F2.8 variants are a good bet. Finally, the cheapest option, i.e. extension tubes and a 50mm prime can also produce stunning results and this would be my recommended starting point. If you find you like it and get on with macro photography, it's worth moving on to try some of the other techniques.
Don't forget also that good lighting is the most critical aspect of successful macro photography, this means you will need a diffused source of light, e.g. a flashgun with some sort of diffuser attached. My best results have been with a manual flashgun and a home-made softbox that fits over the flash head.
Regards
David
Macro lenses also vary tremendously, the Pentax 100mm F2.8 variants are a good bet. Finally, the cheapest option, i.e. extension tubes and a 50mm prime can also produce stunning results and this would be my recommended starting point. If you find you like it and get on with macro photography, it's worth moving on to try some of the other techniques.
Don't forget also that good lighting is the most critical aspect of successful macro photography, this means you will need a diffused source of light, e.g. a flashgun with some sort of diffuser attached. My best results have been with a manual flashgun and a home-made softbox that fits over the flash head.
Regards
David
Posted 29/07/2014 - 21:07
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Thanks again to everyone. That's certainly given me plenty of options and food for thought. Excellent advice as always. Many thanks guys..
Follow me, I'm right behind you...
Posted 30/07/2014 - 09:06 - Helpful Comment
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One other option not mentioned yet is simply stacking lenses reverse a lens in-front of another (longer) lens. Magnification is the the focal length of the (longer) lens /focal length of the reversed lenses.
Ideally done with a coupling ring but can be done just by holding the reversed lens in place.
If you have more than one lens you can try it for nothing!
Some combinations give vignetting or excessive magnification making it effectively useless, but a 50mm prime with the kit lens (zoomed in) gives ~1:1 simply.
Ideally done with a coupling ring but can be done just by holding the reversed lens in place.
If you have more than one lens you can try it for nothing!
Some combinations give vignetting or excessive magnification making it effectively useless, but a 50mm prime with the kit lens (zoomed in) gives ~1:1 simply.
Mike
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Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
Posted 31/07/2014 - 09:57
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Mike wrote:
I used this with my Spotmatic, (about 1970)with a 55 f8 and a 35mm f2 Pentax lens where the first lens had about 20cm extension tubes and then reverse mounted the 35mm lens.
The exposure time was about 1.5minutes with a hand held torch lighting up the transistor chip which was less than 2mm across.

Regards, Horst
Quote:
One other option not mentioned yet is simply stacking lenses reverse a lens in-front of another (longer) lens. Magnification is the the focal length of the (longer) lens /focal length of the reversed lenses.
Ideally done with a coupling ring but can be done just by holding the reversed lens in place.
Mike has a very valid point. One other option not mentioned yet is simply stacking lenses reverse a lens in-front of another (longer) lens. Magnification is the the focal length of the (longer) lens /focal length of the reversed lenses.
Ideally done with a coupling ring but can be done just by holding the reversed lens in place.
I used this with my Spotmatic, (about 1970)with a 55 f8 and a 35mm f2 Pentax lens where the first lens had about 20cm extension tubes and then reverse mounted the 35mm lens.
The exposure time was about 1.5minutes with a hand held torch lighting up the transistor chip which was less than 2mm across.

Regards, Horst
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