Image processing strategy - still confused

I'm still struggling to find the "right" image processing method. I should point out I'm not what you would class as an "enthusiast". I take maybe 20-30 pictures a month with my ist DS, which I've had for about 18 months. I tend to process the images every few months, usually when the card gets full, or after I come back from an interesting trip away somewhere.

I think because I don't do this sufficiently often, I haven't found the right routine yet, but with the latest batch I'm about to process, (all RAW format), I would like to get it right. This is what I'm planning to do:

1. Process the RAW files and save as TIFF-8 files (lossless) using the Pentax Image software.

2. Fix any obvious problems in the TIF files such as colour casts etc. (In the latest batch I have about 20 shots with a nasty CCD splodge almost right in the centre ). I use Paintshop Pro 11 for this at the moment. It has noise removal, sharpening and and curve adjustment features which I've used to fix scanned slides. I haven't found much of a need for these features yet with my istDS images.

3. Save the RAW files, the fixec TIF files plus a small JPEG slideshow onto CD. That way I can always recreate an image from scratch if I have to.

Does this sound like overkill, underkill, or about right? I'm sure I'll get lots of advice to use Photoshop, but as far as I can tell the latest PSP has a lot of Photoshop's facilities, plus I already have a copy from another project. And like I said, photography isn't one of my main activities - I just like to make the best of what I have without devoting a lot of extra time to it.

All advice is appreciated.

Thanks.

I use Silkypix, and make 99% of necessary corrections at the RAW conversion stage. The corrections are saved automatically in a new folder within the folder housing the RAW images, which are then archived. I think this is better than archiving TIFF files.

I output direct to JPEG, but have the option of doing anything else if occasion demands.

I don't like playing around in image editing software, and do it as little as possible.

G

This is one approach I employ systematically for PP...There are a few I employ, but you find this helpful:

Ben

The workflow I employ that is intended for press or print. When shooting in RAW which is always the case, I open an image via Bridge in to PS3 which automatically opens in Adobe Camera Raw. As stated (Now this is an alternative method to the one given at "Pentax Life" I will sharpen the image at 25 to 35 percent in ACR, Luminance Smoothing "0" and Color Noise reduction at "50". I generally click OK at this stage, (unless I am way off in my exposure, which if I am, I have to seriously re-consider my chosen profession)

When open in PS3 in 16 bits, I create a Duplicate Layer. Now here is where you can go both ways. (sounds a bit suspect) Depending on what I wish to accomplish in terms of saturation, I will either De-Saturate the image or leave it as a color image. The two are radically different in there outcome. Once I have created the Duplicate Layer, I will go in to the Layers Menu "TAB" and click on Normal which will open a large choice of different options. I will "Click" on "Soft Light". When doing so and dependent on the contrast of the image, you will notice a radical increase in contrast and saturation if you left the original image in color. Generally with my stuff and I say generally as it totally depends on the lighting I have employed, I will set the "Opacity" and "Fill" sliders from 50 to 85 percent each. Once I am satisfied with the result, I will flatten the image, as it is not yet ready for re-touch, this is a pre-retouch manipulation that I do on every image in preparation for the Post Production retouch. Once in PS, I will in many cases use the Shadow Highlight tool at my Default setting being,

Shadows:
Amount 2%
Tonal Width 50%
Radius 30%

Highlights:
Amount 2%
Tonal Width 50%
Radius 30%

Color Correction +20 Mid-tone 0

It may change dependent on the conditions.

Now, if the "Duplicate Layer" I made used the "De-saturation" process, after I have flattened the layer, I might augment the overall Saturation by 10 to 20 %. If I wish to keep the image with "That" desaturated look I may do nothing. It depends on the effect I am looking for.

If I did not use the "De-saturation" process and left the "Layer" in color, I may "De-saturate' the overall image by 10 to 20%.

If I do not sharpen in PS, I will do the following for a more "RADICAL" look. After I have imported in to PS from ACR, I will Unsharp Mask (Accentuate) from 120 to 330 percent at 0.3 pixels and I will Unsharp Mask again at 10 to 15% at 40 to 60 pixels to really "POP" the contrast. I will go to "Shadow Highlight" and do the required manipulations to compensate for a loss of shadow detail.

I am now ready for the "Retouch Artist"

When retouch is done and up-sized if necessary, I will sharpen again at 100 to 180 percent at 0.3 pixels.

That is my systematic "Workflow" method.

Ben

you really want to have fixed such things as colour casts by this point. The likes of Silkypix are superb for this but from the sound of it you aren't going to want to shell out for it based on the amount of photography you do. You can actually do quite a lot in Pentax Lab using its white balance tab. I usually used either the eyedropper to pick a grey area in the image, or played around with the colour temperature and fine adjustments until it looked right.

Hope this helps

I tend to have my own work flow but for the DL and K10D I have I use Photo Lab 3 to convert them to TIF-8 bit channel and use PSP 11 that way (as there is no fix for that package at the moment recognising RAW files from either of my cameras) and I amend to save to .jpg quality only at the last step. With that method I do tend to get really good A4 prints that are very clear and crisp. I have used this method to do larger canvas prints with great sucess as well. I always shoot in RAW on both my DSLR's.

Thanks for the feedback, there's some useful stuff here.

I did d/l and look at SilkyPix but I found it so complicated and thought it was way beyond what I actually need. Maybe that isn't the case. I do like the Silkypix concept of saving the changes in a separate file and being able to reapply them at a later stage. Does SP have any image editing features (i.e. to remove the CCD speck I mentioned) ?


Are you certain that's the case as I can certainly open *istDS .PEF files with PSP version 11.20. I think this facility was only added in the last couple of updates.

I have tried all the updates and mine are not recognised at all and I mainly use the K10D now so I am working in TIF til the last stage - It's a small work around and is no problem (gives me an extra chance for a cuppa)

Wired

If you're looking for an entirely different user interface to Silkypix, ACR etc why not have a play with the trial version of Bibble Lite, available from the Bibblelabs website?

Instead of the traditional levels and curves approach, Bibble has separate controls for the likes of exposure, contrast, saturation and vibrancy, sharpening, CA and lens distortion reduction. These can be controlled through sliders or switched off entirely. It also has a couple of useful, proprietary, tools such as Perfectly Clear (a sort of auto-levels turbo) and Noise Ninja noise reduction.

OK, this is probably making the professionals and serious amateurs on here inwardly groan but for an hobbyist who doesn't have the time to learn the intricacies of some other applications, but still wants decent output from RAW images, Bibble can give you excellent results really quickly.

I'm a Linux user and am tending to use Bibble Lite for all my colour work and Lightzone for mono when I really want to put in the hard graft. But for colour, I've never equaled with Lightzone the results I can get with just one or two clicks and Bibble. I don't use a conventional image editor much (although have the Gimp for when I do) and can get 99 per cent of my work done in either Bibble or Lightzone.

Try Bibble, you might like it.

Adrian