How do you useAF-360Fgz wireless with K10D?
Posted 05/09/2008 - 14:21
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The gap between the pre-flash and the main flash is of such a short duration (milliseconds) it's unlikely to be perceptible to your eyes. When you use the red-eye reduction flash you get a larger gap because your subject's eyes need time to contract between flashes. If you want to see the pre-flash in action then set the flash mode to trailing curtain sync and press the shutter while watching the flash - you'll see the pre flash, then a pause as the shutter opens for the metered length of time, then the main flash as the shutter closes again.
If your pictures look OK then you have nothing to worry about - everything's working just fine.
If your pictures look OK then you have nothing to worry about - everything's working just fine.
Joining the Q
Posted 05/09/2008 - 14:22
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Well the K20D doesn't support anything but P-TTL - so it must be working
The preflash is almost so close to the main flash that you can't see it. One indicator is that when looking through the viewfinder you can just get a sense of the flash before the mirror blacks out.
I find it easier to press the shutter while looking at the scene - like a double blink effect.
Note: some people blink when using flash - and they blink on the pre flash and thus have their eyes closed for the main shot. Grrrrr.
Matt
The preflash is almost so close to the main flash that you can't see it. One indicator is that when looking through the viewfinder you can just get a sense of the flash before the mirror blacks out.
I find it easier to press the shutter while looking at the scene - like a double blink effect.
Note: some people blink when using flash - and they blink on the pre flash and thus have their eyes closed for the main shot. Grrrrr.
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 05/09/2008 - 14:41
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(Crossed in the ether...)
Actually, for red-eye reduction there are three flashes! One red-eye, big pause, pre-flash, tiny pause, main flash.
Interestingly, the EXIF information (in the RAW at least) contains full information for the ambient, preflash, and main flash meterings! Check out the free PhotoME to see it
Matt
Actually, for red-eye reduction there are three flashes! One red-eye, big pause, pre-flash, tiny pause, main flash.
Interestingly, the EXIF information (in the RAW at least) contains full information for the ambient, preflash, and main flash meterings! Check out the free PhotoME to see it
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 05/09/2008 - 15:54
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Thanks for the reassurances. I am a little paranoid because with the first K20D purchased at end of May the onboard flash did not work properly (hardly ever fired) and the camera was replaced.
I have taken hardly any portraits so far since getting the working camera a week last Saturday so have not experienced the closed eye problem. The previous flash used with the first K20D was an old 400 which did not have PTTL.
My *istD is left at the house in France so I can not try the new 360 on it yet!
Best wishes
Lawrence
I have taken hardly any portraits so far since getting the working camera a week last Saturday so have not experienced the closed eye problem. The previous flash used with the first K20D was an old 400 which did not have PTTL.
My *istD is left at the house in France so I can not try the new 360 on it yet!
Best wishes
Lawrence
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22 years