Help - Cheap pistol grip


jeallen01

Link Posted 27/05/2013 - 10:11
I've just bought one of these
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ABIV9VA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8...

It works well but for one BIG problem which does not show on the main image, but in the other the other one (fitted to a Canon G12), you can just see that there is a button (the "LOCK" button) just above the thumb of the hand holding the grip - and that can easily get depressed and locked-in when you are squeezing the trigger to fire the shutter.

Net result, with the K-5 in "machine gun" mode as I use it at airshows, you suddenly realise that the camera has taken another 20 shots (mainly of anything but aircraft!) before you can react and manually push the LOCK button again to release it! .

So does anyone know if you can release the two screws at the top rear of the grip (not shown on the images) and get inside and disable the LOCK button (which I will never need)?

Thanks in advance.

John.

PS - at Duxford yesterday, far too many big CANONS although I think I might have seen one Canon owner who was also carrying something like a K-5!
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)

smc

Link Posted 27/05/2013 - 11:07
how about a small drill hole and safety pin through the button, like a fire extinguisher. Removable if you do need to use the lock button.

Patty

Link Posted 27/05/2013 - 11:25
If you cant get inside, try borrowing an angle grinder and grind the protrusion off. ( I take it that its working similar to an electric drill switchgear)

Pat

jeallen01

Link Posted 27/05/2013 - 11:42
smc wrote:
how about a small drill hole and safety pin through the button, like a fire extinguisher. Removable if you do need to use the lock button.

Thx - but don't think that's possible because of the shape of the handle with the button on the longer side of it
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)

jeallen01

Link Posted 27/05/2013 - 11:47
Patty wrote:
If you cant get inside, try borrowing an angle grinder and grind the protrusion off. ( I take it that its working similar to an electric drill switchgear)

Pat

I'll have to try something like that - at the moment I am rather more interested in as to whether it is possible to get the handle open without damaging it too much.

John
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)

jeallen01

Link Posted 12/06/2013 - 18:00
jeallen01 wrote:
Patty wrote:
If you cant get inside, try borrowing an angle grinder and grind the protrusion off. ( I take it that its working similar to an electric drill switchgear)

Pat

I'll have to try something like that - at the moment I am rather more interested in as to whether it is possible to get the handle open without damaging it too much.

John

In the end I decided not to risk trying to take it apart - so I just cut off the protrubing part of the switch button with a junior hacksaw and then covered the remaining end of the button with some insulating tape. That looks like it should work, but we shall see
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)

jeallen01

Link Posted 15/06/2013 - 14:52
jeallen01 wrote:
jeallen01 wrote:
Quote:
If you cant get inside, try borrowing an angle grinder and grind the protrusion off. ( I take it that its working similar to an electric drill switchgear)

Pat

I'll have to try something like that - at the moment I am rather more interested in as to whether it is possible to get the handle open without damaging it too much.

John

In the end I decided not to risk trying to take it apart - so I just cut off the protrubing part of the switch button with a junior hacksaw and then covered the remaining end of the button with some insulating tape. That looks like it should work, but we shall see

Have now tried the tape-secured Lock switch on the K-5 indoors, and it seems to work fine with no tendency to continue firing the shutter after I release the trigger!
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
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