Hello from SaraBartlett
Posted 29/12/2015 - 22:57
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Hi Sara, welcome.
Centre weighted metering, centre spot autofocus, as high a shutter speed as you can (minimum 1/500th) , shake reduction on unless on a tripod. Treat yourself to the tele adapter when you can. Photos crop well with the K3. Remember at long telephoto wide open depth of field will be very shallow indeed. Take as many shots as possible, wildlife photography isn't easy (especially in UK winter light). Have fun.
Centre weighted metering, centre spot autofocus, as high a shutter speed as you can (minimum 1/500th) , shake reduction on unless on a tripod. Treat yourself to the tele adapter when you can. Photos crop well with the K3. Remember at long telephoto wide open depth of field will be very shallow indeed. Take as many shots as possible, wildlife photography isn't easy (especially in UK winter light). Have fun.
Posted 29/12/2015 - 23:14
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Hi Sara, you've certainly gone in at the quality end with that combination! My best advice would be:
- Keep your shutter speed reasonably high - 1/500 second or higher, unless you are very expert at holding the camera still. Camera movement will be the biggest reason shots are not sharp, unless your equipment has an AF issue. Don't be afraid to up the ISO to keep the shutter speed up, also your DA*300 will be fine at its widest aperture, as it is a superb lens
- Use a camera support whenever possible. Tripod is best, but not easy to move, monopod is usually more practical for bird photography. If you can't use either, rest the lens on something, a bean bag is ideal
- Choose your backgrounds carefully and try to avoid clutter behind the bird. Isolated twigs as perches are good
- Calibrate your lens to your camera - you would be surprised how much focus variation there is on different lens / body combinations
- Don't use the 'machine gun' technique - learn timing on the shutter button and you will become natural at knowing when to press and when not to
Hope this advice helps you to get some great bird shots, others may disagree with what I've said but it works for me.
Regards
David
PS I forgot the most important which is learn to be in the right place at the right time. This will mean getting up early.
- Keep your shutter speed reasonably high - 1/500 second or higher, unless you are very expert at holding the camera still. Camera movement will be the biggest reason shots are not sharp, unless your equipment has an AF issue. Don't be afraid to up the ISO to keep the shutter speed up, also your DA*300 will be fine at its widest aperture, as it is a superb lens
- Use a camera support whenever possible. Tripod is best, but not easy to move, monopod is usually more practical for bird photography. If you can't use either, rest the lens on something, a bean bag is ideal
- Choose your backgrounds carefully and try to avoid clutter behind the bird. Isolated twigs as perches are good
- Calibrate your lens to your camera - you would be surprised how much focus variation there is on different lens / body combinations
- Don't use the 'machine gun' technique - learn timing on the shutter button and you will become natural at knowing when to press and when not to
Hope this advice helps you to get some great bird shots, others may disagree with what I've said but it works for me.
Regards
David
PS I forgot the most important which is learn to be in the right place at the right time. This will mean getting up early.
Posted 30/12/2015 - 13:29
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And don't forget to knock out some internal walls in your place for those indoors shots !
You've picked a good challenge by starting out in DSLR photography with K3 a and 300mm telephoto prime! A great combination though, and yes, there are some superb bird shots on here taken with this gear. I hope you enjoy experimenting and learning the techniques for great wildlife shots. I've only tried a bit of birdlife at 300mm but that's with an f5.6 zoom and a K7, which is very much a 'sun needs to be shining' kind of combination! So you should be fine once you get used to the equipment and the AF settings.
You've picked a good challenge by starting out in DSLR photography with K3 a and 300mm telephoto prime! A great combination though, and yes, there are some superb bird shots on here taken with this gear. I hope you enjoy experimenting and learning the techniques for great wildlife shots. I've only tried a bit of birdlife at 300mm but that's with an f5.6 zoom and a K7, which is very much a 'sun needs to be shining' kind of combination! So you should be fine once you get used to the equipment and the AF settings.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 30/12/2015 - 13:39
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Thank you so much for all of the helpful tips! I'm really looking forward to putting them all into practice.
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