Getting Closer
Posted 26/06/2014 - 16:49
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Andrew has a good point there. It's an amazing lens and costs very little.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/06/2014 - 17:23
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Well done, Nigel Using extension tubes is very demanding. I gave up quite early on as the viewfinder is so dark making focusing difficult.
Best wishes,
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Posted 26/06/2014 - 21:06
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bwlchmawr wrote:
Well done, Nigel Using extension tubes is very demanding. I gave up quite early on as the viewfinder is so dark making focusing difficult.
Thanks for the encouragement I enjoy getting in close to these sort of subjects, so you're guaranteed plenty more from the K7 & I ...Well done, Nigel Using extension tubes is very demanding. I gave up quite early on as the viewfinder is so dark making focusing difficult.
Is it recently on digital you used tubes, or are you talking about back in the olden filmy days? Because I used the LCD live view feature for focussing & shooting with the remote - mirror is up already which is a bonus for vibraction control, and with the info button I zoomed into the centre focus area at 4x magnification for very precise adjustments. It helps that the Tamron 135 has a big focus throw, but the LV technique is really a great help for this kind of photography!
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 26/06/2014 - 21:16
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McGregNi wrote:
Is it recently on digital you used tubes, or are you talking about back in the olden filmy days? Because I used the LCD live view feature for focussing & shooting with the remote - mirror is up already which is a bonus for vibraction control, and with the info button I zoomed into the centre focus area at 4x magnification for very precise adjustments. It helps that the Tamron 135 has a big focus throw, but the LV technique is really a great help for this kind of photography!
Ah yes, good point. This was in digital times but before live view. I can see how that would be helpful. Very helpful, in fact.
bwlchmawr wrote:
Well done, Nigel Using extension tubes is very demanding. I gave up quite early on as the viewfinder is so dark making focusing difficult.
Thanks for the encouragement I enjoy getting in close to these sort of subjects, so you're guaranteed plenty more from the K7 & I ...Well done, Nigel Using extension tubes is very demanding. I gave up quite early on as the viewfinder is so dark making focusing difficult.
Is it recently on digital you used tubes, or are you talking about back in the olden filmy days? Because I used the LCD live view feature for focussing & shooting with the remote - mirror is up already which is a bonus for vibraction control, and with the info button I zoomed into the centre focus area at 4x magnification for very precise adjustments. It helps that the Tamron 135 has a big focus throw, but the LV technique is really a great help for this kind of photography!
Best wishes,
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Posted 26/06/2014 - 21:38
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McGregNi wrote:
That adaptor is something to look out for then. Sounds like my 28 & 135mm together would be a powerful combination. Which one do you use to set the aperture on, or can you set both?
I think the aperture would be left wide open on the reversed 28 and set to the appropriate value on the other lens mounted in the normal way to the camera. Otherwise, you would have a very dark viewfinder as the reversed lens would be set permanently to whatever aperture.That adaptor is something to look out for then. Sounds like my 28 & 135mm together would be a powerful combination. Which one do you use to set the aperture on, or can you set both?
When reversing a lens onto the front of another one, you are effectively making it the front element, so I don't see why you would operate the aperture at anything other than wide open.
Regards
David
Posted 27/06/2014 - 12:08
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That sounds logical David, thanks, I will certainly try that technique when I get hold of the right adaptor.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 27/06/2014 - 12:58
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davidstorm wrote:
When reversing a lens onto the front of another one, you are effectively making it the front element, so I don't see why you would operate the aperture at anything other than wide open.
Regards
David
You would normally use the secondary (camera mounted) lens wide open and the primary (reversed) lens stopped down to avoid vignetting. Even like this you can still get vignetting if using a reversed wide angle and a slow primary lens. This does mean you have to manually open up the primary for focusing and then close it down for metering and shooting.McGregNi wrote:
That adaptor is something to look out for then. Sounds like my 28 & 135mm together would be a powerful combination. Which one do you use to set the aperture on, or can you set both?
I think the aperture would be left wide open on the reversed 28 and set to the appropriate value on the other lens mounted in the normal way to the camera. Otherwise, you would have a very dark viewfinder as the reversed lens would be set permanently to whatever aperture.That adaptor is something to look out for then. Sounds like my 28 & 135mm together would be a powerful combination. Which one do you use to set the aperture on, or can you set both?
When reversing a lens onto the front of another one, you are effectively making it the front element, so I don't see why you would operate the aperture at anything other than wide open.
Regards
David
I guess that if for your lens combo you can get away with stopping down the primary it'll be more convenient although even best case you probably won't be able to stop down much before vignetting starts. Not that vignetting is always a bad thing for macro shots.
Posted 27/06/2014 - 13:43
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Thanks Rob, makes sense as well! I will have to experiment quite a bit. For now I'm just looking forward to getting time to shoot more closeup flowers with the tubes.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
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828 posts
18 years
Oldham,
Lancashire,UK
Andrew