Focus issues.

You don't need to change the firmware with the Russian program.

See here

Two threads here and here seem to have been updated recently.

You would be better to try manual focusing first on say a cornflakes box about 6m away. It's easier to focus if there's lettering on the point your focusing on. Try a few shots and pick the best. Also try a small aperture say f/11 on some.

Algi

Any idea about the aperture setting for the shot of the adder looking into the camera?

I see very shallow depth of field - focus on the adders head, and/or a front focussing.

The area in front of the snake is in focus - body and area behind oof.

You don't even need the Russian program now. Pentax Hacks have found an easier way see this blog for info.

Algi

I realise now (now I'm unable to edit) that I needed to replace "AF" with the more general term of "focus" in my post.

Algi. I have been to the file you have given and it is SCARY!!

thoramay

Settings on juvenile adder.

Shot on tiles Macro Pentax 100mm F22 1/125 at ISO 200.

In grass
Macro Pentax 100mm F32 1/10th at ISO 200.

Catching this snake still enough was a trial and I let the camera do the work in AF.

thoramay.

Hand-held at 1/10th with a 100mm lens is not the best recipe for a sharp shot. This could also be the root of the problem you're experiencing with the 300mm.

Have just loaded into Gallery a shot of an orchis taken yesterday
Again Pentax macro lens ISO 200 F2.8 at 500th.

All the shots,and there are 50 or more are just as much out of focus. I specialise in close up/macro. Taken on the tripod in my normal method. I cannot believe that I can being doing it all so badly.

Thoramay.

I am a great believer in Pentax's SR system but even I would struggle to get a sharp shot at 1/10th. Personally I would never go over f16 when doing macro anyway.

Edit: Ah, just realised .. tripod .. don't use one of those.

I think the problem with this one (very different issue to the adder) is the use of f2.8. On the Pentax 100mm macro this gives a very shallow DOF. You can see on the orchid picture that some of the petals are in focus, whereas ones closer to the camera are not.

I would suggest a shot on tripod of a flower at f10 in Av mode to use as a marker. The shots you've shown so far have been at a miniscule DOF (f2. or unsuitable shutter speed for lens (assuming adder shots were handheld).

Standard advice is that you calculate minimum shutter speeds taking the "35mm equivalent" figure, simply because you are getting the same magnification and therefore shake.

So 300mm = 1/450sec.

However, SR changes the figure again, so in the example given it would be worth trying down to 1/125sec if you had to.

However again, this tackles camera shake but has no effect of subject movement. With wildlife you need as fast a shutter speed as you can get.

There are more howevers, but I think that's enough for the basics.

Robbie. as previously stated all shots with macro are taken on a tripod. The camera making the decisions in AF.

I take your point about narrow depth of focus but..I usually take it at this setting to get all the background out of focus and I do not get this result. F10 will give distracting background in my experience. I am judging these shots against previous results.

I have about twenty shots of the adder, all following one another and the results are variable.

There was afair amount of wind about with the orchid, so shot at 500th to stop any movement. camera set the speed.

thoramay.

Going back to the original point of the post, what settings/method are you using for shooting with the 300mm?

Also, do you disable SR when shooting off a tripod?

Robbie. I am trying to respond positively. It is not just the 300mm. I have only had that lens for two days and have used it once.

The results were variable and I put that down to inexperience with a new lens. I have never removed SR on a tripod. It's not given me grief before

Now! My Pentax macro is seldom off the camera. It is against my experienec with this lens that concerns me.
I have also used a 50mm 1.8 and the Pentax 18-55.
I am now taking shots just before, on the yellow indicator and just after. None of them seems to me to be as sharp as I have been used to.

I need to spend time with the 300mm and test it out as has been suggested.
Will upload a pic to the Gallery tomorrow of my usual result.

Thoramay

Thoramay.

If you dont want to put the hacked firmware on your K10D (it honestly is very easy) you can send it to me and I will put it on for you.

Obviously if it blows up while I am doing it I take no responsibility but that is highly unlikely and it made a huge difference to mine.