Flash triggers and P-TTL
Posted 03/10/2009 - 23:44
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I suspect Johnx means a single flash.
Basically, you won't get such a setup to work with auto-exposure unless it supports Pentax P-TTL, which I presume the PE-3057s don't.
The solution is to use everything on manual settings, and ascertain the correct exposure by trial and error.
Which is the best way anyway, unless the situation is dynamic. But I presume you are talking about a studio setting, so all should be well.
G
Basically, you won't get such a setup to work with auto-exposure unless it supports Pentax P-TTL, which I presume the PE-3057s don't.
The solution is to use everything on manual settings, and ascertain the correct exposure by trial and error.
Which is the best way anyway, unless the situation is dynamic. But I presume you are talking about a studio setting, so all should be well.
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 03/10/2009 - 23:52
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I wonder... Would you be able to trigger the SEF-36PZF by optical slave via the popup flash, and then use a hot shoe radio trigger and receivers for the PE-3057's?
No idea if that would actually work...
No idea if that would actually work...
Pentax K10d; Metz mecablitz 48 AF-1; Pentax A 50mm F2; Pentax 18-55mm DAII; Sigma 28-300mm F3.5-5.6; Koboron 24-70mm F3.5-4.8. Pentax MZ-7, Zenit 35mm
My Flickr Photos
My Flickr Photos
Posted 04/10/2009 - 08:32
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Road_Dancer wrote:
I wonder... Would you be able to trigger the SEF-36PZF by optical slave via the popup flash, and then use a hot shoe radio trigger and receivers for the PE-3057's?
No idea if that would actually work...
As far as I am aware you can't use the pop-up flash and hot-shoe together but I believe there is a lens/camera/P-TTL flash combination which works without firing the pre-flash. A series and older lenses rings a bell.I wonder... Would you be able to trigger the SEF-36PZF by optical slave via the popup flash, and then use a hot shoe radio trigger and receivers for the PE-3057's?
No idea if that would actually work...
Yes, radio slaves would be a simple and cheap answer. Currently they cost £31 for a transmitter and 3 slaves from Hong Kong.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 04/10/2009 - 09:19
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Mannesty wrote:
I believe there is a lens/camera/P-TTL flash combination which works without firing the pre-flash. A series and older lenses rings a bell.
Yes.I believe there is a lens/camera/P-TTL flash combination which works without firing the pre-flash. A series and older lenses rings a bell.
Pre-A series lenses, or an A- (or FA-) series lens not set to A. The pop-up then doesn't emit a pre-flash.
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 04/10/2009 - 09:36
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Just to clarify, when I said use everything on manual, I meant to say that the 360 should be mounted on the camera. There is no way I know of to stop the RTF from transmitting a pre-flash with a modern lens.
Chris is quite right about using a pre-A lens.
G
Chris is quite right about using a pre-A lens.
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 04/10/2009 - 09:45
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George Lazarette wrote:
There is no way I know of to stop the RTF from transmitting a pre-flash with a modern lens.
Well there is...There is no way I know of to stop the RTF from transmitting a pre-flash with a modern lens.
If you push in the lens-release button, and turn the lens a tiny amount, until you lose the aperture readout on the LCD, you don't get a preflash.
Since there's no aperture ring, you can't control the aperture, and the flash goes off at max power.
So it's about as useful as an ash tray on a motor bike.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 04/10/2009 - 09:48
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I will remember you when I compile my book of really useful suggestions.
G
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 04/10/2009 - 11:28
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Thanks for the input so far!
Optical triggers = my words for the light-sensitve slave type switches that respond to the main flash and trigger other flash units plugged into them.
I take the point about using older lenses and flash units on manual, but I'm looking to use my DA lenses.
As to where/when I would want to use all this kit together, I suppose it could be described as 'studio'. My thinking is to use the 36PZF on or close to the camera, with the 2 x PE-3057's at the side or rear of the model.
I like the suggestion of wireless (as in RF) devices. Presumably the transmitter is a camera operated hot shoe mounted device (or connected via the X-sync socket) and each of the flash units has a receiver attached.
I have a flash meter that I would then need to use with the set up to determine corerct exposure via a series of test shots?
Optical triggers = my words for the light-sensitve slave type switches that respond to the main flash and trigger other flash units plugged into them.
I take the point about using older lenses and flash units on manual, but I'm looking to use my DA lenses.
As to where/when I would want to use all this kit together, I suppose it could be described as 'studio'. My thinking is to use the 36PZF on or close to the camera, with the 2 x PE-3057's at the side or rear of the model.
I like the suggestion of wireless (as in RF) devices. Presumably the transmitter is a camera operated hot shoe mounted device (or connected via the X-sync socket) and each of the flash units has a receiver attached.
I have a flash meter that I would then need to use with the set up to determine corerct exposure via a series of test shots?
Posted 04/10/2009 - 12:08
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If the camera is on manual, you can mount the 360 (also on manual) either on the camera or off it (using 5p cables and adapters), and everything would work.
G
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 04/10/2009 - 12:12
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My solution, which is both (relatively) cheap and powerful, is to use my AF-240T on the camera, and 2 AF-500FTZs remotely.
G
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 04/10/2009 - 13:39
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Thanks George. Really need to get my head around what I want to do! (then give it a try)
Posted 04/10/2009 - 13:58 - Helpful Comment
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Allow me to simplify.
Modern Pentax DSLRs use the P-TTL system to communicate with each other. If ALL your flashguns support P-TTL (and presently they don't), then you can have a fully automated flash system, and however many units you have, you will get a properly exposed image. Good, but expensive.
The ONLY alternative, with a modern Pentax DSLR, is to go fully manual. This should actually give you better results because you have more control. All serious studio photographers use manual flash (but not portable flashguns!).
For manual flash, you MUST put the camera to Manual mode, and use either a flashgun mounted on the camera (or linked to it with cables) to trigger the remote guns, or use a radio or IR trigger to do the same.
In your case I would mount the 36PZF on the camera, diffuse the light from it or point it up, and use it to trigger the two Nationals.
The problem with using a flashgun to trigger the other guns is that if you point it at the subject you will have to stay in one place. Move nearer and you will upset the light balance. I always point mine at the ceiling and use it on Auto, so it cuts out before it does any damage.
I should buy an IR trigger, but I don't have any problems with what I do, so I haven't bothered. On your 36PZF, set it to the lowest light output and you will be fine.
G
Modern Pentax DSLRs use the P-TTL system to communicate with each other. If ALL your flashguns support P-TTL (and presently they don't), then you can have a fully automated flash system, and however many units you have, you will get a properly exposed image. Good, but expensive.
The ONLY alternative, with a modern Pentax DSLR, is to go fully manual. This should actually give you better results because you have more control. All serious studio photographers use manual flash (but not portable flashguns!).
For manual flash, you MUST put the camera to Manual mode, and use either a flashgun mounted on the camera (or linked to it with cables) to trigger the remote guns, or use a radio or IR trigger to do the same.
In your case I would mount the 36PZF on the camera, diffuse the light from it or point it up, and use it to trigger the two Nationals.
The problem with using a flashgun to trigger the other guns is that if you point it at the subject you will have to stay in one place. Move nearer and you will upset the light balance. I always point mine at the ceiling and use it on Auto, so it cuts out before it does any damage.
I should buy an IR trigger, but I don't have any problems with what I do, so I haven't bothered. On your 36PZF, set it to the lowest light output and you will be fine.
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 04/10/2009 - 17:26 - Helpful Comment
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(Just quickly read the thread and replies... please excuse me if I repeat anything :blush
To trigger optical slaves you must put the 36PZF into either "A" or "M" modes - it'll emit one flash in those modes
The only way you can do that is by putting the camera into "M" mode. Then you can press the mode button on the flash to get either A or M.
If you're in a studio setup then "M" on flash and "M" on camera is by far the easiest setup
Or... you can use IR or radio triggers (but in those cases, use "M" mode on the camera).
Matt
To trigger optical slaves you must put the 36PZF into either "A" or "M" modes - it'll emit one flash in those modes
The only way you can do that is by putting the camera into "M" mode. Then you can press the mode button on the flash to get either A or M.
If you're in a studio setup then "M" on flash and "M" on camera is by far the easiest setup
Or... you can use IR or radio triggers (but in those cases, use "M" mode on the camera).
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
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