Fish-Eye Stream
Posted 02/03/2008 - 19:01
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Love picture nr 1, specially the sky(clouds) To bad about the blown-out highlights in the center. They are a bit to prominent in the picture to ignore.
Martin
Martin
Posted 02/03/2008 - 21:32
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Quote:
..............To bad about the blown-out highlights in the center. They are a bit to prominent in the picture to ignore.
Martin
Is there a way around this problem, given that I was shooting straight into the sun :..............To bad about the blown-out highlights in the center. They are a bit to prominent in the picture to ignore.
Martin
I was not sure that anything of use would result from these shots, so overall I am reasonably pleased.
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 02/03/2008 - 21:58
Link
Hi Hyram,
Given the situation, you and the camera did a very good job. More underexposing would result in losing all the foreground detail. A couple of ND graduate filters would help. For landscapes they are of great help. They come in 1,2,and3 stops strengh. Cokin and Lee are two well known manufacturers. What they do is simple. They even out the sky whith the foreground. So the sky or other bright areas are stopped down by 1,2, or 3 stops, without affecting the foreground. You can achieve the same effect (kind of ) by making one exposure for the foreground and one exposure for the background and blend the two together in PS using layers and masks. A third way is placing a Grey graduated layer over your working layer. Basicly doing the same software wise as with real ND grads. The real filters do a better job though.In case of this two pics it would be a difficult job anyhow. Because of the centre of the sun in the scene.
HIH,
Martin.
Given the situation, you and the camera did a very good job. More underexposing would result in losing all the foreground detail. A couple of ND graduate filters would help. For landscapes they are of great help. They come in 1,2,and3 stops strengh. Cokin and Lee are two well known manufacturers. What they do is simple. They even out the sky whith the foreground. So the sky or other bright areas are stopped down by 1,2, or 3 stops, without affecting the foreground. You can achieve the same effect (kind of ) by making one exposure for the foreground and one exposure for the background and blend the two together in PS using layers and masks. A third way is placing a Grey graduated layer over your working layer. Basicly doing the same software wise as with real ND grads. The real filters do a better job though.In case of this two pics it would be a difficult job anyhow. Because of the centre of the sun in the scene.
HIH,
Martin.
Posted 02/03/2008 - 22:19
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It's a difficult problem. If possible try to move slightly to place the sun behind a tree trunk or similar. You can underexpose quite a lot and recover much of the information in the dark shadows after. On this one I could make more detail in the black foreground visible but I liked the affect as it is. Nothing I could move the sun behind, but I exposed for the sky and set -1 ev during processing. You will nearly always get some part blown out, but that's life.


K100D Super, 18-55, 50-200, Sigma 10-20, Sigma 70mm macro and lots of old lenses
Posted 03/03/2008 - 13:50
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Martin / MX,
Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.
On my office monitor (set up for CAD) the two photographs look too dark, but at home they look just fine.
Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.
On my office monitor (set up for CAD) the two photographs look too dark, but at home they look just fine.
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
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2812 posts
19 years
Deepest Hampshire,
England
K10D + DA 10-17 @ 10mm
K10D + DA 10-17 @ 10mm
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T