First outing with the 55-300mm :)
Posted 16/04/2012 - 22:46
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Hi Adam
Welcome to 'the club' - I'm sure you will find some useful info on this forum, as I have.
Before making any comments on the pics ref the lens it is important for you to give some more details about how they were taken. e.g. the camera, settings, and whether hand held.
I got my K-r last Autumn with the twin lens kit and on advice from this forum I got the 55-300DA for Christmas (luckily before Christmas when Amazon had it on offer !)
I have not used it that much - I got it mainly for wildlife - but did a half-day session in March. I'm not up-to-speed on using manual settings yet so leave the camera on 'P' and auto-focus but limit ISO to 1600 max and save in jpeg + DNG.
I was very pleased with the results from the wildlife shoot, even though they were all hand-held even when the lens was on 300mm.
I've also found that the 'in-camera' jpeg conversion is excellent and haven't managed to get any better pics from 'playing around' with the RAW files ! (Although I HAVE found that the jpegs benefit from a bit of tweeking of levels and sharpening)
If you can post some more info on the pics I'll let you know how they compare with my results.
Incidentally, I also live in Reading !
Peter
Welcome to 'the club' - I'm sure you will find some useful info on this forum, as I have.
Before making any comments on the pics ref the lens it is important for you to give some more details about how they were taken. e.g. the camera, settings, and whether hand held.
I got my K-r last Autumn with the twin lens kit and on advice from this forum I got the 55-300DA for Christmas (luckily before Christmas when Amazon had it on offer !)
I have not used it that much - I got it mainly for wildlife - but did a half-day session in March. I'm not up-to-speed on using manual settings yet so leave the camera on 'P' and auto-focus but limit ISO to 1600 max and save in jpeg + DNG.
I was very pleased with the results from the wildlife shoot, even though they were all hand-held even when the lens was on 300mm.
I've also found that the 'in-camera' jpeg conversion is excellent and haven't managed to get any better pics from 'playing around' with the RAW files ! (Although I HAVE found that the jpegs benefit from a bit of tweeking of levels and sharpening)
If you can post some more info on the pics I'll let you know how they compare with my results.
Incidentally, I also live in Reading !
Peter
Posted 17/04/2012 - 02:50 - Helpful Comment
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PeterKR wrote:
Before making any comments on the pics ref the lens it is important for you to give some more details about how they were taken. e.g. the camera, settings, and whether hand held.
All the pictures here do actually have EXIF data. (I use the FxIF extension in Firefox to show it if available.)Before making any comments on the pics ref the lens it is important for you to give some more details about how they were taken. e.g. the camera, settings, and whether hand held.
I've had a look through them myself. A mixed bunch, if I may say so!
They all look to have been taken at full aperture which doesn't offer the sharpest resolution, and limits the depth of field so the images must be focussed spot on at those focal lengths.
I think your sharpness concern could be partly down to camera shake. I presume you have the shake option turned on if you were hand holding? Telephoto shots are prone to suffer from this. Ways to overcome it are either to use a tripod and/or up the ISO. You were only using ISO 200 so could have gained a stop or two going up to 400 or even 800. Using f8 would have been better than using f5.6 and halving the shutter speed would have overcome some of the camera shake. If you needed more depth of field then stop down even further - you have to decide as the camera hasn't really got a clue what you are doing, despite all the electronics in it.
I think the dog and white swam head pictures have suffered from camera shake. More practice at holding the camera steady at 1/400 sec required! However the black swan looks sharp (at least the bill does), just lacks a bit of depth of field and critical focussing on the eyes.
The football photos are interesting. Good action shots and look sharper than the animal photos. Not sure what the footballer in the first one in the yellow top would think about his head being chopped off though! The second football one looks quite good to me. Reasonably sharp and good composition. I'm not sure what to make of the third one with the hoody looking on at the lone player. Shame you cut their feet off, otherwise it would be really good.
For the runner photo you managed a slighly faster exposure of 1/640 sec and it looks a lot sharper - I suspect less camera shake!
Maybe it was your intention, but the lion statue just looks to be a silhouette unless its my monitor set a bit dark. If you have a RAW file for that you may find you can bring out some more detail in it, if you so wish.
The last duckling picture looks to have the mother duck in focus, but not the duckling which I presume is the subject of the photo. This is probably due to allowing the camera to select the focus point rather than doing it yourself. The bill on the duck does look to be sharp though, but probably not what you intended.
It can be quite tricky to get sharp pictures with normal lenses but it often doesn't show up so much. Put on a long telephoto and it is much harder to get sharp photos. If you have the auto pattern focussing turned on consider trying the centre spot setting instead. You can control the point of focus better. So focus first, and then recompose and take the picture. The camera is likely to choose something other than what you want for its focus point, like when it missed the duckling completely!
Hope that helps a little.
John
John K
Posted 17/04/2012 - 11:29
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I'd try some more photos now having heard a couple of responses, with a tripod and faster shutter speeds.
But one thing i found when I got the lens is that it won't focus well, particularly at longer focal lengths, if you have a UV filter on. If you've got one on, take it off.
But one thing i found when I got the lens is that it won't focus well, particularly at longer focal lengths, if you have a UV filter on. If you've got one on, take it off.
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Posted 17/04/2012 - 11:45
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darkskies wrote:
But one thing i found when I got the lens is that it won't focus well, particularly at longer focal lengths, if you have a UV filter on. If you've got one on, take it off.
I've not found that to be an issue but it doesn't hurt to experiment. f5.6 is getting on the slow side so auto focus might struggle on occasion, especially if the subject isn't particularly contrasty.But one thing i found when I got the lens is that it won't focus well, particularly at longer focal lengths, if you have a UV filter on. If you've got one on, take it off.
I normally use the AF button for focussing and turn it off on the shutter release. I like to know the picture is in focus before I take it! That's possibly a hang over from slide photography days when slides were expensive to waste. A friend of mine prefers to 'machine gun' subjects with a multiple burst of exposures hoping to get a good one.
John
John K
Posted 17/04/2012 - 12:39
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Perhaps it depends on the make of UV filter, John, but it definitely happened to me. I took off the filter and all of a sudden the lens started to focus properly. Seems odd, I know.
I also recall someone else having a problem with this lens and a circular polariser. There's a thread about that somewhere.
I also recall someone else having a problem with this lens and a circular polariser. There's a thread about that somewhere.
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Posted 17/04/2012 - 17:49
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Yes I remember it. Can't think how or why a skylight filter could affect focussing. Mine's had a Jessops Skylight 1A from the day I got the lens, it just happened to be the first spare filter that came to hand and fitted. Personally I do wonder if the focussing issue is more to do with how the lens is used.
Relying on a long tele lens to quickly focus on the shutter half press in poor light might be beyond the camera's capability to do it reliably every time. I don't use it that way - I do it much the same as I did with a manual lens - use the auto focus (actually the AF button) to get it close and quick shift if necessary, or just try it on auto again until it gets it right. Shooting blindly away when it clearly isn't right sounds like a waste of time to me! I guess that comes from having used ME's etc where you just had to focus it yourself. I never actually bothered about any of the automatic focussing cameras until I got an EOS, quickly followed by a K100D. (Sold the EOS to partly fund the K-5.) I'd had far to many off focus efforts with point and shoot cameras so was well aware of the pitfalls, which still seem to be with us.
Maybe we should be able to rely on technology, but I've yet to see a camera with a built in brain scanner to work out what it is you're taking! With a 300mm lens wide open there's no scope for allowing for focussing errors like there is with a wide angle.
Regarding the polariser, it is reducing the light to quite a low level. Pentax recommended against using a teleconvertor on an 5.6 lens due to lack of light - a polariser would have much the same issue so the camera would be struggling to get enough contrast for the focussing to work.
John
Relying on a long tele lens to quickly focus on the shutter half press in poor light might be beyond the camera's capability to do it reliably every time. I don't use it that way - I do it much the same as I did with a manual lens - use the auto focus (actually the AF button) to get it close and quick shift if necessary, or just try it on auto again until it gets it right. Shooting blindly away when it clearly isn't right sounds like a waste of time to me! I guess that comes from having used ME's etc where you just had to focus it yourself. I never actually bothered about any of the automatic focussing cameras until I got an EOS, quickly followed by a K100D. (Sold the EOS to partly fund the K-5.) I'd had far to many off focus efforts with point and shoot cameras so was well aware of the pitfalls, which still seem to be with us.
Maybe we should be able to rely on technology, but I've yet to see a camera with a built in brain scanner to work out what it is you're taking! With a 300mm lens wide open there's no scope for allowing for focussing errors like there is with a wide angle.
Regarding the polariser, it is reducing the light to quite a low level. Pentax recommended against using a teleconvertor on an 5.6 lens due to lack of light - a polariser would have much the same issue so the camera would be struggling to get enough contrast for the focussing to work.
John
John K
Posted 17/04/2012 - 21:27 - Helpful Comment
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The filter I was using was just a UV filter. Dr O will back me up because he was trying to help me when I came up with the brainwave regarding the filter. One day I couldn't get a really sharp image and the next day, having taken the filter off, I could, taking exactly the same shot in the same light.
Anyway, if Adam is using a filter, I'd suggest taking it off to see if it makes a difference, as well as the other suggestions already made. It took me a little while to get used to this lens as it's much longer than anything else I'd ever used. Got there in the end, though.
Anyway, if Adam is using a filter, I'd suggest taking it off to see if it makes a difference, as well as the other suggestions already made. It took me a little while to get used to this lens as it's much longer than anything else I'd ever used. Got there in the end, though.
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Posted 17/04/2012 - 21:30
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Backed up. Made all the difference in the world.
Posted 17/04/2012 - 22:49
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Hi Adam
I've now uploaded one of my first shots with my DA55-300 to the PentaxUser Gallery, Wildlife section, & called it 'on the run' as it shows a female blackbird about to leave ! (Probably heard the K-r's shutter !)
This is a 'tweeked' jpeg so the exif data doesn't reveal that the lens was at full stretch on 300mm. However, despite the moving subject I think the K-r's 'P' mode has done quite a good job ?
Peter
I've now uploaded one of my first shots with my DA55-300 to the PentaxUser Gallery, Wildlife section, & called it 'on the run' as it shows a female blackbird about to leave ! (Probably heard the K-r's shutter !)
This is a 'tweeked' jpeg so the exif data doesn't reveal that the lens was at full stretch on 300mm. However, despite the moving subject I think the K-r's 'P' mode has done quite a good job ?
Peter
Posted 18/04/2012 - 10:28
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Hi Adam
I have now uploaded another shot taken with my DA55-300 for you to compare. This one 'called Scarlet Elf Cup' was taken on a wildlife shoot in March.
Again the K-r was set on 'P' and left on auto-focus.
The location was a dark area under trees and because of the long minimum focus distance of this lens I had to stand back (on a slippery surface !) and extend the lens fully to 300mm to get a reasonably large image of the fungus. All-in-all I feel this camera/lens combination has served me well (check the exif data to see what it selected.
I'd be interested to hear what others think (the image is in the Wildlife section of the gallery)
I bought this lens on advice from John Riley and others on this forum and don't regret it.
Peter
I have now uploaded another shot taken with my DA55-300 for you to compare. This one 'called Scarlet Elf Cup' was taken on a wildlife shoot in March.
Again the K-r was set on 'P' and left on auto-focus.
The location was a dark area under trees and because of the long minimum focus distance of this lens I had to stand back (on a slippery surface !) and extend the lens fully to 300mm to get a reasonably large image of the fungus. All-in-all I feel this camera/lens combination has served me well (check the exif data to see what it selected.
I'd be interested to hear what others think (the image is in the Wildlife section of the gallery)
I bought this lens on advice from John Riley and others on this forum and don't regret it.
Peter
Posted 18/04/2012 - 15:36
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Posted 24/04/2012 - 23:43
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Thanks for the comments guys - haven't had chance to look back at this post this last week although your comments and suggestions will be really helpful.
Thanks for the pointers on this John. I think you can get found out a lot more easily when shooting with a telephoto lens than with a wide angle lens which is what I am used to shooting with!!!
I've only recently discovered this feature - this evening in fact. I was aware that it could be done but previously I have let the camera do the focusing, and as you pointed out, there have been numerous examples in that first set where it picked the wrong focus point.
When you say centre focus and then recompose, what exactly to you mean by that?
I am using a Hoya UV filter which I have put over the lens since I received it in order to protect it. I will take it off for a shoot and see if I can see any discernable difference.
The example bird shots are simply stunning darkskies - I would say you have got the hang of your lens pretty comprehensibly
Quote:
I think your sharpness concern could be partly down to camera shake. I presume you have the shake option turned on if you were hand holding? Telephoto shots are prone to suffer from this. Ways to overcome it are either to use a tripod and/or up the ISO. You were only using ISO 200 so could have gained a stop or two going up to 400 or even 800. Using f8 would have been better than using f5.6 and halving the shutter speed would have overcome some of the camera shake. If you needed more depth of field then stop down even further - you have to decide as the camera hasn't really got a clue what you are doing, despite all the electronics in it.Thanks for the pointers on this John. I think you can get found out a lot more easily when shooting with a telephoto lens than with a wide angle lens which is what I am used to shooting with!!!
Quote:
It can be quite tricky to get sharp pictures with normal lenses but it often doesn't show up so much. Put on a long telephoto and it is much harder to get sharp photos. If you have the auto pattern focussing turned on consider trying the centre spot setting instead. You can control the point of focus better. So focus first, and then recompose and take the picturesI've only recently discovered this feature - this evening in fact. I was aware that it could be done but previously I have let the camera do the focusing, and as you pointed out, there have been numerous examples in that first set where it picked the wrong focus point.
When you say centre focus and then recompose, what exactly to you mean by that?
Quote:
Anyway, if Adam is using a filter, I'd suggest taking it off to see if it makes a difference, as well as the other suggestions already made.I am using a Hoya UV filter which I have put over the lens since I received it in order to protect it. I will take it off for a shoot and see if I can see any discernable difference.
The example bird shots are simply stunning darkskies - I would say you have got the hang of your lens pretty comprehensibly
Posted 24/04/2012 - 23:47
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P.s. I've buggered up the quotes there something royal, never mind ...
Posted 25/04/2012 - 11:54
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Adam, it hadn't dawned on me originally because it is quite subtle. Where you laid out flat on your stomach for the football shots worked well because of the low viewpoint giving an unusual angle (beside helping to steady the camera.)
With wider angle lenses and compact cameras, there is inherently much more depth of field so having the focus happen on the half press of the shutter release isn't really so much of an issue with those but the AF button prefocus system still works!
As to whether to use a UV filter or not, this might amuse for a minute or eight! link
John
Quote:
When you say centre focus and then recompose, what exactly to you mean by that?
This goes back to using old film Pentax's which had a split prism aid in the centre of the viewfinder. One always used to use that split prism to focus. But having the main point of interest right dead centre in the viewfinder didn't usually give the best composition! So once the lens was focussed on what you wanted the picture was recomposed for the best pictorial effect (usually moving the point of interest to observe the rule of thirds.) That was with manual focussing lenses. If using that approach with autofocus cameras, one has to make sure the camera doesn't try to refocus when you press the shutter release button to take the actual photo which it would do by default and spoil your photo! So by turning off the half press focus on the shutter release method and having it on the AF button instead prevents the cameras from undoing your good work! All Pentax's allow this but the button to be used varies depending on the camera model. This way you are in charge of what is the main point of focus and not the camera.When you say centre focus and then recompose, what exactly to you mean by that?
With wider angle lenses and compact cameras, there is inherently much more depth of field so having the focus happen on the half press of the shutter release isn't really so much of an issue with those but the AF button prefocus system still works!
As to whether to use a UV filter or not, this might amuse for a minute or eight! link
John
John K
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84 posts
14 years
Leighton Buzzard
I've included some of the best photos from my 1st shoot with the 55-300mm lens in Reading today.
The whole album can be find on my PB page if anyone wants to look at them.
Comments welcome - is anyone else has the lens I would be grateful if you could let me know if you think the pics are sharp. I'm fairly happy with it but I haven't got anything to compare it to
Thanks,
Adam
http://s1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/abam48/Reading%20on%20the%20Wilde%20Side_150412/
[IMG]http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/abam48/Reading%20on%20the%20Wilde%20Side_150412/_IGP3168.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/abam48/Reading%20on%20the%20Wilde%20Side_150412/_IGP3207.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/abam48/Reading%20on%20the%20Wilde%20Side_150412/_IGP3212.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/abam48/Reading%20on%20the%20Wilde%20Side_150412/_IGP3215.jpg[/IMG]
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