First images with the FA 20-35mm

Here's the first images with the FA 20-35mm of the K1.

I'm not sure about it, the jury's out. Seems like the images where I've focused further away are not as sharp as I'd like and almost looked blurred when zoomed in but the closer stuff is okay. I was shooting at f11 and at an ISO to keep my shutter speed up so guessing it's the lens.

Anyway, here's the first images with it!

1.

Cardiff Bay Nature Reserve by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

2.

Cardiff Bay Nature Reserve by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

3.

Cardiff Bay Nature Reserve by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

4.

Cardiff Bay Nature Reserve by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

5.

Cardiff Bay Nature Reserve by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

Here's another example of what I mean.

All these images were shot today on a dog walk.

Focused on the greenery sticking up, I'd like to think there was enough contrast there to lock focus good, the camera seemed to think it was focused good but when you zoom in afterwards...







But then it then goes and makes images like this!


Pentax 20-35mm by Gareth Williams, on Flickr


Pentax 20-35mm by Gareth Williams, on Flickr


Pentax 20-35mm by Gareth Williams, on Flickr


Pentax 20-35mm by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

Frustrating! I wonder, when they about the light hazing on the centre optics, which is there but reasonably light, is effecting the images?

Doubt it, pretty much every copy I've owned also had a similar 'funny' character about it. Also when paired with the K-1 you'll come across the horrible shutter/mirror shake too. This lens is pretty badly affected by it around 1/100s shutter speeds.

Superb lens though, I don't think I'll sell mine.

What's the mirror shutter shake? Some of my images that were not sharp were around that shutter speed?

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/190-pentax-k-1-k-1-ii/356071-mirror-slap-shu...

It happens when the mirror/shutter assembly causes vibration of the camera body as you're taking a shot. It's pretty common if you're using lighter lenses with the K-1. I've also seen it a lot when using the 28-105 (or 18-135 on the K-3).

To avoid it, use any method to increase the shutter speed beyond 1/200 or so.

I never knew this!

Worrying as I use my K1 for work although for that I'm generally using my DFA 24-70mm on it or my Sigma 70-200mm.

So large bigger mass lenses are not affected but smaller lighter lenses are? Weird as I've never had an issue with my FA 35mm or 50mm?

Ill be doing some checking tomorrow as I have a few weddings coming up soon and I can't be having ghosting images!

I don't know this lens so I'm probably talking crap. However, I'm assuming from the wide angle that the front element is really right up at the front? The hoods supplied with such are next to useless. A similar thing happens with vintage lenses when you can't get a hood on them and I have taken to shading the lens with a big piece of corrugated cardboard held outside its field of view but blocking the sunlight. It transforms the images you get!

This one surprisingly doesn't have a fat bulbous front element and the hood is sufficient to block most light from the side.

Gareth, you could selotape a milk bottle bottom onto your camera and produce a great image.

I really like the rendering of the first set of images Gareth, especially the first two. They don't all have the sharpness of much of your recent work, but that is really neither here nor there - they certainly bear your stamp, and are beautiful as they are. That said, there may be technical reasons (as numbered above by others) for the differences in sharpness, and figuring out what those reasons might be can be part of the fun in using the lens... I would certainly love to get my hands on one myself!