First attempt at HDR
Posted 01/01/2014 - 20:59
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A great 1st attempt! Its an appropriate scene for HDR - I imagine the foreground was quite dark and fully in shadow, so the dynamic range must have been very high.
I won't focus on composition etc as the emphasis here is on the HDR I guess, but generally I like the layout of the image -perhaps an even lower viewpont would have been more effective.
The obvious technical point is the halo effect around the main building, which is too obvious to be acceptable - its accompanied by a light fringe also, so whatever specific HDR slider you used that has created this defect needs to be reduced. Alternatively you might try some careful cloning or 'healing brush' type repair work all around the building edges.
I would also tone down the bright 'fluroescent' colours (the cyans and greens on the glass for example) and reduce the shadow brightening on the buildings facade a little - it just doesn't look like the lighting is coming from any floodlamps, so appears a bit unnatural IMO.
To achieve some of this you may want to introduce an additional non HDR version of your shot (exact same dimensions) as a layer in Photoshop, and use layer masking to hide some of the things I've mentioned, revealing the plainer non-HDR underneath. I'd control the effect with layer or brush opacity settings.
And finally I'm not a great fan of ghosts walking through pictures, so I'd try and remove them ... but of course in some situations I appreciate it may be effective, so its a very personal judgement.
Would be great to see how these suggestions work if possible
I won't focus on composition etc as the emphasis here is on the HDR I guess, but generally I like the layout of the image -perhaps an even lower viewpont would have been more effective.
The obvious technical point is the halo effect around the main building, which is too obvious to be acceptable - its accompanied by a light fringe also, so whatever specific HDR slider you used that has created this defect needs to be reduced. Alternatively you might try some careful cloning or 'healing brush' type repair work all around the building edges.
I would also tone down the bright 'fluroescent' colours (the cyans and greens on the glass for example) and reduce the shadow brightening on the buildings facade a little - it just doesn't look like the lighting is coming from any floodlamps, so appears a bit unnatural IMO.
To achieve some of this you may want to introduce an additional non HDR version of your shot (exact same dimensions) as a layer in Photoshop, and use layer masking to hide some of the things I've mentioned, revealing the plainer non-HDR underneath. I'd control the effect with layer or brush opacity settings.
And finally I'm not a great fan of ghosts walking through pictures, so I'd try and remove them ... but of course in some situations I appreciate it may be effective, so its a very personal judgement.
Would be great to see how these suggestions work if possible
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Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
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171 posts
13 years
Tyne and Wear
s
hot with my istds and M 28mm F3.5 @ F11 any comments or tips more than welcome and wishing you all a happy new year!
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