Filters

gregstammers
Posted 14/03/2013 - 06:47 Link
Hi All

Can anyone tell me what essential filters I should be carrying for day to day use.
Regards Greg
Edited by gregstammers: 14/03/2013 - 06:58
AndrewA
Posted 14/03/2013 - 07:36 - Helpful Comment Link
I have trimmed mine back to just Circular Polarising and ND Graduated.
Andrew

"I'm here because the whiskey is free" - Tyla

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womble
Posted 14/03/2013 - 07:39 - Helpful Comment Link
For digital photography: a polariser. After that, graduated neutral density filters can be useful for balancing sky and land, and a "big stopper" for extra long exposures, but both those are less "every day" than a polarizer.

Film is a different story.

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
johnriley
Posted 14/03/2013 - 08:34 - Helpful Comment Link
I rarely use filters with digital cameras, so none are essential as such. It depends on your shooting style, but the only things that can't be done in Photoshop are polarisers, graduated ND filters (not totally true) and big stoppers.
Best regards, John
wvbarnes
Posted 14/03/2013 - 20:19 - Helpful Comment Link
I agree, a circular polariser and a two stop hard grad ND are all I have in my bag. I'd like a 10 stop ND but only have a three stop one presently. All Cokin P holder size with ring to adapt to each of my lenses.
davidstorm
Posted 14/03/2013 - 21:34 Link
Same here, I always use a polariser, usually a ND Grad and sometimes (not often) a 10 stopper. The only other 'filter' I carry is a piece of welding glass, just because I like to give myself a challenge! Oh, sometimes I have a Hoya IR72 Infra-red, but this is rarely used.

Regards
David
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major
Posted 15/03/2013 - 00:10 Link
Does anyone use a circular polariser on a DA 15mm which does not interfere with the function of its built-in hood?

Any guidance or comment would be welcomed. Cheers!
redbusa99
Posted 15/03/2013 - 01:09 Link
push the glass out of an old 49mm filter and screw the rim to the lens to make an extension then screw on the polariser, works a treat.
odd lens or 2

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simonkit
Posted 15/03/2013 - 08:50 Link
Filters have become less important with the advent of Photoshop and HDR photography so using them is becoming more about what you prefer...getting the shot as good as possible in-camera or trying to make a not so great shot into a good one in photoshop, that debate's already ongoing so lets not start it here again...anyway to answer your question...

A polariser is the hardest to replicate in Photoshop and is a very useful filter..enhances colours in landscapes, kills unwanted reflections and as a by-product it reduces light levels by around 2 stops so can be a useful pseudo-ND filter too.

For landscapes I personally wouldn't be without NDgrads..can't beat the satisfaction of getting back home and not having to do hardly any PP because you've captured the shot exactly as you wanted

A standard ND filter is very useful if you want those "milky water" long exposure photos

Simon
damperman
Posted 15/03/2013 - 09:08 Link
I'm thinking of purchasing the lee system filters, question is would you use soft or hard ND filters, and why.
wvbarnes
Posted 15/03/2013 - 09:43 Link
damperman wrote:
I'm thinking of purchasing the lee system filters, question is would you use soft or hard ND filters, and why.
This is a good explanation of the subject. Filters above P size are big and expensive. http://www.naturephotographers.net/articles1108/dw1108-1.html
simonkit
Posted 15/03/2013 - 11:13 Link
damperman wrote:
I'm thinking of purchasing the lee system filters, question is would you use soft or hard ND filters, and why.
My experience is that with a crop sensor DSLR then hard grads are ideal in almost every situation, in fact I don't think I've used my soft grads more than a handful of times. The graduation line on hard grads isn't nearly as obvious as you think it would be, its only really evident if using ultra wide focal lengths..10/12mm etc and even then not too bad.

Simon
Smeggypants
Posted 15/03/2013 - 20:54 Link
Only thing that can't be done in softrware is polarisers and ND filters for long exposures in bright scenes. I have some polarisers but still haven't got around to getting an ND filter.

Can't see the point of using grad ND filters when that can be done so simply in Post pro, and much more accurately and in multiple if needed. Just expose to avoid blowing the birght regions of the scene. There's plenty of Dynamic range to bring up the darker regions with today's cams
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
major
Posted 15/03/2013 - 21:52 Link
redbusa99 wrote:
push the glass out of an old 49mm filter and screw the rim to the lens to make an extension then screw on the polariser, works a treat.
Thank you, Joe, for the tip!
DrOrloff
Posted 16/03/2013 - 23:53 Link
Nd grads are absolutely essential for me, just couldn't do without them.

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