Filter question
Posted 21/08/2011 - 14:37
Link
That's something very different indeed.
Try a Haze filter, it cuts some of the blue light, UV and UV-A, maybe that might help.
Try a Haze filter, it cuts some of the blue light, UV and UV-A, maybe that might help.
Posted 21/08/2011 - 14:52 - Helpful Comment
Link
Anvh wrote:
If AWB can correct the filter then surely the white balance can also mimic the filter so why use a filter to begin with?
In general, we don't with digital photography, as many effects can be approximated in Photoshop.If AWB can correct the filter then surely the white balance can also mimic the filter so why use a filter to begin with?
However, remember that a filter works by not just changing colour temperature, but by actually removing part of the light that is allowed through to the sensor. This, if haze scatters blue light then we remove it and we have reduced haze. We haven't affected the colour temperature of the overall spectrum of light allowed in. If we let the blue light through and deal with it afterwards, the scattering and contrast reduction have been allowed to happen and it's too late to correct that.
Best regards, John
Posted 21/08/2011 - 15:05
Link
I use a UV filter, but to be honest, it doesn't seem to make any difference at all. I think I will try experimenting with different WB and see if that makes any difference. I know that IR pictures have far less haze, so I will try shifting the WB to the red end of the spectrum and see if that makes any difference, though I would guess the blue light is still reaching the sensor so it might not make any difference once I adjust the WB in PP. I don't have enough technical knowledge to know the answer to that, so I will experiment. I am also going to order a couple of Tiffen haze-1 filters, which apparently stop a lot more UV than the Hoya filters I use at the moment.
Posted 21/08/2011 - 15:09 - Helpful Comment
Link
the tiffen Haze 2a stops even more
If you find IR okay then B/W might also be okay, then get a red filter, it won't be as powerful as an IR but atleast your shutterspeeds will be higer.
If you find IR okay then B/W might also be okay, then get a red filter, it won't be as powerful as an IR but atleast your shutterspeeds will be higer.
Posted 21/08/2011 - 15:28
Link
UV filters do block UV but the lens coating and the filter infront of the sensor also cuts UV so in the end they hardly make a difference.
But hopefully the more powerful ones do make a difference though.
But hopefully the more powerful ones do make a difference though.
Posted 22/08/2011 - 13:00
Link
I just got a reply from Lee filters offering to make me a custom filter, but only in 8 months time when they have the capacity to work on new designs! No mention of price (I imagine it would cost a fortune), I did however offer to field test one for them
Posted 22/08/2011 - 13:15
Link
Adams (1980, p. 168 ) recommends a No 12 (minus blue) filter for removing haze (which is a deep yellow) so I guess what you need is a graduated version of that. What colour are the Tiffen Haze filters?
K.
PS Whatever bright spark decided to make 8 ) (without the space) the code for a smiley needs a kick...
K.
PS Whatever bright spark decided to make 8 ) (without the space) the code for a smiley needs a kick...
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Posted 22/08/2011 - 13:20
Link
The haze filters are a bit orange (brwon) from colour but from all that i've read they recommend red or yellow filters for B&W so how Adams came with using a blue filter?
Posted 22/08/2011 - 13:40
Link
The Tiffen filters are supposed to be neutral. They also do one with a slight orange tinge, but a paraglider chappy I know who shoots a lot of aerial stuff uses the haze-1, but says the haze-2a are better. In Lightroom, a yellow/slightly orange filter gives more contrast. I am thinking of trying the UV filter with a yellow grad, but the Tiffen ones cost a fortune.
Posted 22/08/2011 - 13:56
Link
Anvh wrote:
The haze filters are a bit orange (brwon) from colour but from all that i've read they recommend red or yellow filters for B&W so how Adams came with using a blue filter?
womble actually said a "minus blue" filter, which is deep yellow, orange or red in terms of black and white images.The haze filters are a bit orange (brwon) from colour but from all that i've read they recommend red or yellow filters for B&W so how Adams came with using a blue filter?
For colour film, a light straw colour, perhaps an 81A to warm the scene as well.
Best regards, John
Posted 22/08/2011 - 14:01
Link
johnriley wrote:
womble actually said a "minus blue" filter, which is deep yellow, orange or red in terms of black and white images.
uhmmm he didn't said that at first, he changed it after mine comment womble actually said a "minus blue" filter, which is deep yellow, orange or red in terms of black and white images.
He simply said a blue filter.
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.




10412 posts
18 years
Dordrecht,
the Netherlands
If you shoot in RAW you can change the WB to those settings with software to see what it does.
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ