faulty aperture on lens
Posted 17/11/2008 - 11:42
Link
You could use it with the 2 second delay - that should give the aperture time to close down before the picture's taken. Better than nothing!
Joining the Q
Posted 17/11/2008 - 16:36
Link
the sticky apperture is a common fault on older lenses. I'm not familiar with the lens you mention, but if it is a good one then it should be reparable. If it's a really good one it might even be worth it.
you don't have to be mad to post here
but it does help
but it does help
Posted 17/11/2008 - 17:56
Link
Hefty
My ME super doesn't have a 2 sec. delay only a self timer.
Mongoose - the lens is probably not worth the cost of repair
Am I right in thinking that if I remove the bar/lever that the camera uses to close the aperture blades then the aperture will be as selected by the f stop ring ie for f2.8 wide open and for f16 closed down ( is this called stop down metering?)
If this is the case will I not be able to use the lens without overexposing? all be it with out TTL metering -
afraid I'm a bit of a dumbo when it comes to this stuff
My ME super doesn't have a 2 sec. delay only a self timer.
Mongoose - the lens is probably not worth the cost of repair
Am I right in thinking that if I remove the bar/lever that the camera uses to close the aperture blades then the aperture will be as selected by the f stop ring ie for f2.8 wide open and for f16 closed down ( is this called stop down metering?)
If this is the case will I not be able to use the lens without overexposing? all be it with out TTL metering -
afraid I'm a bit of a dumbo when it comes to this stuff
Posted 17/11/2008 - 18:14
Link
If you do that you will end up with a useless lens that is always wide open. It's the lever that operates the stop-down when it is activated by the camera's internal link.
A sticky diaphragm will mean over-exposed results by the way.
A sticky diaphragm will mean over-exposed results by the way.
Best regards, John
Posted 17/11/2008 - 19:21
Link
Why not just try warming it up a little in the airing cupboard and then operating the lever a lot to see if you can restore the lubrication which I assume has aged.
Mike
Mike
Posted 17/11/2008 - 21:03
Link
Try also very gently bending the lever back to a central position - sometimes the lever binds agaisnt the side of the slot and slows aperture movement. Otherwise, it could be oil on the blades. This should be visible on the blades.
Posted 18/11/2008 - 16:00
Link
Thanks folks
Posted 28/11/2008 - 05:40
Link
why go to the trouble?
A bargian if it works, but if it doesn't, hardly worth the trouble...
what other lenses do you have?
A bargian if it works, but if it doesn't, hardly worth the trouble...
what other lenses do you have?
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Posted 28/11/2008 - 11:18
Link
Gromit,
Take one of your functioning lenses and compare the little black tab sticking out of the back (mounting) end, with your Vivitar. These tabs should be exactly parallel to the fixed piece beside them and move VERY freely. If the tab is bent either inwards or outwards, try to straighten it (what have you got to lose?).
They get bent very easily.
If you can save it, Vivitar 1 lenses are usually very good - I prize an 80 - 200mm zoom for Pentax, and my daughter has one on her Minolta Maxxum which she seldom removes.
Best of luck!
Take one of your functioning lenses and compare the little black tab sticking out of the back (mounting) end, with your Vivitar. These tabs should be exactly parallel to the fixed piece beside them and move VERY freely. If the tab is bent either inwards or outwards, try to straighten it (what have you got to lose?).
They get bent very easily.
If you can save it, Vivitar 1 lenses are usually very good - I prize an 80 - 200mm zoom for Pentax, and my daughter has one on her Minolta Maxxum which she seldom removes.
Best of luck!
Mac from Montreal
SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.
SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.


9 posts
17 years
London
I've read good reports on these Vivitar series 1 lenses but I'm assuming that it's not worth getting it repaired.
As you can probably tell I'm a novice but I was thinking that if I cut the lever off could I use it as a preset or manual lens? I'm assuming that I wouldn't be able to meter through it on my ME super though.