Correct the pink!
Posted 13/09/2012 - 21:53
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(The images have just been opened into Photoshop, and croped, then saved to jpg. Nothing have been done to them.)
The white have gone all pink on me here. This was a big issue in some shots, because one teams cloths had a lot of white in them.
iso 200 : 120mm : f4.0 : 1/500s
The edges here just screams at me. And the white is still rather pink.
iso 640 : 150mm : f4.0 : 1/500s
Just for the record. The conditions was insane that day. From bright sunlight on half the field, to full overcast, rain, wind, and then to gleamy sun on one third of the field.
The white have gone all pink on me here. This was a big issue in some shots, because one teams cloths had a lot of white in them.
iso 200 : 120mm : f4.0 : 1/500s
The edges here just screams at me. And the white is still rather pink.
iso 640 : 150mm : f4.0 : 1/500s
Just for the record. The conditions was insane that day. From bright sunlight on half the field, to full overcast, rain, wind, and then to gleamy sun on one third of the field.
Posted 13/09/2012 - 22:10 - Helpful Comment
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Looks white to me. But inside of lightroom it should be very easy to correct any WB tint you see using the dropper tool when editing a RAW file mate.
One day you'll find, 10yrs have got behind you.
Posted 13/09/2012 - 22:24
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Hello S.M.
First of all, the 'edges' you mention are what is known as a 'chromatic aberration' (purple fringing in plain English) and are a common lens characteristic when shooting high contrast subjects (e.g. branches against a sky or bright objects against a dark background). Some lenses and digital sensors are more prone to this than others. You can get rid of most of this in a decent processing program, the one that comes with Pentax cameras will do this.
Secondly, your 'off-whites' are mainly the result of the White Balance setings you have used. 'Cloudy' will add warmth to images, making whites slightly off. Again this is easily corrected if you have shot the files in RAW format (which your post indicates you have). The Pentax software supplied with your camera is quite capable of doing this, simply select the 'White Balance' option and try different settings until you find the most natural for the lighting conditions your images were shot in.
Hope this is of assistance.
Regards
David
First of all, the 'edges' you mention are what is known as a 'chromatic aberration' (purple fringing in plain English) and are a common lens characteristic when shooting high contrast subjects (e.g. branches against a sky or bright objects against a dark background). Some lenses and digital sensors are more prone to this than others. You can get rid of most of this in a decent processing program, the one that comes with Pentax cameras will do this.
Secondly, your 'off-whites' are mainly the result of the White Balance setings you have used. 'Cloudy' will add warmth to images, making whites slightly off. Again this is easily corrected if you have shot the files in RAW format (which your post indicates you have). The Pentax software supplied with your camera is quite capable of doing this, simply select the 'White Balance' option and try different settings until you find the most natural for the lighting conditions your images were shot in.
Hope this is of assistance.
Regards
David
Posted 13/09/2012 - 22:31 - Helpful Comment
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The white looks white to me - is your monitor colour-balanced? It might be your screen that's making things a little pink...
It sounds from your comment as if you're using Lightroom - if you have version 4 the colour fringing is easily removed in the Develop module by going to the Lens Corrections settings, picking the Color tab and checking the Remove Chromatic Aberration box. In my experience Lightroom makes a pretty good job of it.
It sounds from your comment as if you're using Lightroom - if you have version 4 the colour fringing is easily removed in the Develop module by going to the Lens Corrections settings, picking the Color tab and checking the Remove Chromatic Aberration box. In my experience Lightroom makes a pretty good job of it.
Posted 13/09/2012 - 23:00
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I just played a bit with it in LR 4.1, and the pink seems to be okay corrected by the 'tint' stuff in the WB feature. I had not thought about the tint thing.
The feature of colour fringing does help a bit. Nice idea, but it is rather limiting. And the CA button is just partially helping.
Are there ways in PS (6) to do this more detailed, and to a localized region?
Does anyone have any greater experience with this lens?
It would really be nice to know what apertures I need to use, and at what range, to avoid CA as much as possible.
[edit] In retrospect I wish I had brought a CPL with me that day, but the lens is soo annoying to use with a CPL when I use the original hood with it.
The feature of colour fringing does help a bit. Nice idea, but it is rather limiting. And the CA button is just partially helping.
Are there ways in PS (6) to do this more detailed, and to a localized region?
Does anyone have any greater experience with this lens?
It would really be nice to know what apertures I need to use, and at what range, to avoid CA as much as possible.
[edit] In retrospect I wish I had brought a CPL with me that day, but the lens is soo annoying to use with a CPL when I use the original hood with it.
Posted 14/09/2012 - 08:01
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AWB should work OK on the K-5.
To WB the RAW file the scaffold tube should be neutral grey.
You may have to try several points on the tube because it
does vary quite a bit.
The whites are burnt out and you are not really going
to recover much from that picture.
To WB the RAW file the scaffold tube should be neutral grey.
You may have to try several points on the tube because it
does vary quite a bit.
The whites are burnt out and you are not really going
to recover much from that picture.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 17/09/2012 - 15:38
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I did another shoot yesterday of another game, and it went a lot better.
For that lens all the aberration issues were gone by f5.6, and the lighting was quite different, so it still kept me on 125-320 iso in TAv.
And I remembered my CPL
For that lens all the aberration issues were gone by f5.6, and the lighting was quite different, so it still kept me on 125-320 iso in TAv.
And I remembered my CPL
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58 posts
14 years
I am rather new to the digital stuff when it comes to photography, and have come across some issues I was wondering if anyone had any suggestion on how I could correct.
Tips on how to avoid it by using different settings, or how to correct it in post by either Lightroom or Photoshop, are both welcome.
Shot with: 'Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8 II EX DC APO HSM' on a 'K-5 (1.13)' in 'TAv' with 'Cloudy WB' and full quality 'DNG' files.
I do not believe I used any EV correction on those two examples, might be something someone could come with suggestions for if it would help.
(The idea behind those settings was to freeze the action with the shutter speed, and I thought f4 was enough on that lens to get ride of most of the CA, while still keeping iso fairly low. WB just landed on cloudy since it was partially cloudy the day, and I wanted to get a relatively okay instant review without having to force the camera to do auto.)