Colour Management and Image Management Software

Dear All,
I am trying to get to grips with Colour Management, as I keep getting prints that don't match what I see on the screen.

I must admit that I find the whole area extremely mystifing, and the more I read, the more confused I get. And I'm reasonably competent with digital imaging and IT. But I have a few questions:

1. I've got a 19" Samsung LCD, using it in subdued fluorescent light.

2. I've set up my Default Monitor Profile (Windows 2K under Display Properties/Settings/Advanced/Colour Managment) to the one supplied by Samsung sm193T.icm. I've tried creating my own using Adobe Gamma, Colorific, QuickGamma, but I cannot make sense of the various contrast/brightness settings - I just can't see the various shadings/lines they refer to)

3. I'm using I-Match image managmenet software. In I-Match/Program Preferences/Display, I've set the Monitor Gamma to 1.01 (can't actuall get it to 1.00). I assume this is what I-Match means when, on the Color Management tab, the yellow exclamation note says "Note: When using a monitor profile, you should set the gamma correction for your monitor to the neutral value 1.0 to avoid unwanted side effects." Or does it mean setting the value to 1.00 somewhere else?

4. In I-Match/Program Preferences/Color Management, I've ticked the Monitor color profile enabled.

Question 1. In I-Match, do I have to select the default profile (which in my case, would be sm193T.icm) from the text-box field below the "Monitor color profile enabled" checkbox? Or is this to be used when the "Monitor color profile enabled" checkbox is unticked?

Question 2. If yes, why? Can't I-Match just use the default set up through windows?

Question 3. I use a Pentax *ist-D. I've selected the Adobe RGB colour space, rather than the Adobe sRGB (only because this has been recommended in various places - not that I can see any difference). And now the file names start with an _Underscore. But when I load the files into Photoshop Elements via I-Match, there is no profile - I have to assign Adobe RGB using Elements? Is this normal, or is I-Match discarding the information from the camera when it loads the picture?

Question 4. What is the difference between .icc and .icm files? Are they the same? Why are they in so many different folders?

Question 5. Will all of this make my prints look like what I see on the screen?? I'm using a shop (Jessops) to do my printing - will their machinery recognise embedded profiles? Do I have to tell them I've got embedded profiles (they might think it's some strange desease!). Or is this whole Colour management thing only for someone doing their own printing?

Sorry for the long post.
Any answers will be greatfully received.

Many thanks, Dave

Dave,
Phew! What a lot of questions!!
Some insight might help...

Firstly, you can't use Adobe Gamma with LCDs Wink It don't have the profile characteristics for LCDs (which are vastly different to CRTs). CRTs have a non-linear response, which is why calibration is more important, whereas LCDs are essentially linear. However, not all software can cope with the LCDs.

So, before you do anything else, download WiziWYG from www.praxisoft.com - it's free . Not difficult to setup a profile for the LCD - should take about ten minutes max. (When you set the R, G, B boxes up, move your head away from the monitor and squint. Use the up/down arrows on the keyboard to adjust each slider, and the Tab key to move between them). However, I have had at least one cheap LCD that I just couldn't calibrate (and not even with a £200 Spyder USB calibration device).

Once calibrated, this should become your default monitor profile (as long as you tick the box at the end of the WiziWYG process). I suggest using D50 (5000K) and choosing between gamma 1.8 (Mac) and 2.2 (PC). I've started using 1.8 gamma (even on a PC) on my laptop as this gives better shadow detail, and I think (still experimental) that the LCD copes with this better. D50 is better with subdued lighting. Once calibrated, don't adjust any controls on the LCD (if you do, recalibrate), and keep the ambient light the same.

I don't actually use I-Match anymore... I decided to stick to keeping all my images on one 300Gb drive. Now I shoot in RAW only, and use Capture One LE and Photoshop CS. It is quite likely that I-Match rips out at least some of the profile from the JPG, or ignores it.

AdobeRGB vs sRGB - if you use a colour managed application then you should see NO difference whatsoever when comparing. The difference is within the data, so to speak. AdobeRGB will give you more "Red" room to play with (I took a sample image over the weekend to confirm this - may publish the results soon). sRGB can easily clip on the reds and leave you with no detail. However, most output devices, and print shops expect sRGB colour space So, you need a process:

* Use "Full Color Management - optimized for Print" in PSE (Shift+Ctrl+K)
* Shoot in RAW or AdobeRGB JPG.
* Edit you image
* Save the PSD file when happy
* When ready to print, you need to convert the image to sRGB colour space, optionally sharpen, and save as a different filename. (Not sure how to convert in Elements, but in PS it is "Image / Mode / Convert to Profile /sRGB...".

I'd also suggest trying another print service I didn't always get on with the Jessops process. I use www.photobox.co.uk - and they supply a calibration print on your first order (or can send one in advance on request). You can compare this with the one online to see if your LCD is within range. Some suggest applying a small curves layer before sending to lighten the image slightly (I have done this, and the prints are excellent).

Hope that helps!
Matt