Choosing a lens for the Spotmatic F

Hi,
I have a Spotmatic F with a SMC Takumar 50 1/4 and I am looking for more lens. I am confused by the large number of different 'brands' (Makinon, Pentacon, Hanimex, etc) and would appreciate some advice on which are worth buying - looking for 28mm, 35mm and 100 or 135mm.
Thanks,
Ernesto (Brazil)

Back in 1974, when the prices of Pentax lenses were astronomical, there was merit (financially at least) in looking for alternatives.

Nowadays, there is no reason at all not to buy proper Pentax lenses of the period, which will invariably be 1000 times better than the alternatives you mention.

The last lenses, with the best coating, were the SMC Takumars and the Super-Multi-Coated Takumars. However, earlier lenses like the Super-Takumars are also very good. There are plenty of 28mm, 35mm, and 135mm Takumars around, and some 105mms.

The one exception I would mention, is the early Vivitar Series One lenses, which were of very high quality, but I can't remember if they were available in screw-mount.

Ebay is the place to find lenses, though there are alternatives such as KEH in the US.

George

FINALLY! A topic I can weigh in on!

IMHO

Stay with Asahi lenses if at all possible - there are many, many M42 Screw On lenses for sale on eBay etc. for really low prices - reason? They're inferior, in large part, to any Takumar. Folk have generally figured this out over the past thirty years or so and are asking a slightly higher price for Asahi's in excellent condition.

Of course there are exceptions, I have two - an old Russian f8, 500MM Mirror Lens from USSR (weighs a ton, but Wow) and a bright 28MM Vivitar f2.5 Man/Auto which would be tough to beat for any price.

I recently acquired a Super Takumar f3.5, 135MM and am BLOWN AWAY by the clarity. I'm so happy with it, I doubt if I'll look for a brighter version.

Yay screw mounts!

Cheers

I'll heartily second the two previous posters. At today's prices, especially on ebay, you would be ill-advised to buy any M42 screwmount lenses other than Takumars. I have a 28/3.5 Super Takumar (the small version, which is the best) that has paid for itself many times over. The Super Takumar 135/2.5 is not only very fast but very sharp. If you see a Super Takumar 50/1.4 - a wonderful "normal" lens - with a yellow tint to the glass, clamour for a reduced price. Claim it's worthless for use with colour film. BUY IT. Then I, or others on this forum can tell you how to de-yellow it - a very simple procedure - and you'll have one of the best lenses Takumar has made, although some would argue that the 55/1.8 is better. In my opinion, either will do just fine.

Ted

Spot on Ted!

Believe it or not, I saw a seller on eBay crowing that he was selling a genuine Super Tak 1.4 - you could tell by the much sought-after yellow colour! So much for talking some of these folk down.
Now, I'm currently in the process of laroriously sun bleaching a beautiful 1.4 that had been kept in the dark from the day it was purchased back in the 60's. Darn near orange.
I can already see improvement, and I'm proceding very slowly by putting the lens in a south facing window rather that directly in the sun itself. I'm leary of overheating the little gem and having lubrication run onto the interior glass or blades.
I gave up my search for an economical UV lamp - they all seem to be for water purifucation or manufacturing purposes and would cost a fortune. I guess the old tanning lamps are taboo now.
Do you have any tips to share with the class Ted?

Cheers

Mac: Here's the trick to keep it from overheating.

1. Remove front and rear lens caps.

2. Wrap the lens tightly in aluminum foil, shiny side inward.

3. Arrange foil so that rear lens element is exposed.

4. Prop lens at about a 40 degree angle so that it's facing south.

I did mine outside on a table and it took a mere ten days to completely de-yellow the glass. Of course that's here in the Arizona sun. The purpose of the aluminum is two-fold. By covering the lens, the black metal cannot absorb heat. By having the shiny side inward, the sun enters the lens through the rear element, strikes the shiny aluminum covering the front element, and sort of bounces about inside. I believe this hastens the process, but a scientist I am not.

I suppose this method works inside also with the lens propped on a south facing window sill, and I guess the angle at which it is propped would depend on the position of the sun in the sky (lower in winter, etc.).

Cheers,

Ted

Gee, Ted, for a minute there I thought you were about to say "and bake in a 400 degree oven for 45 minutes - basting ocasionally"

What you say makes excellent sense, and I'm about to try it. I have problems with the sun bouncing around in my pentaprism's so it may as well bounce around in a radio active lens and do some good.

Up here in the soon-to-be frozen north the sun's angle is getting lower by the day and the aluminum foil will serve another purpose - protecting the lens from Canada Goose poop.

Thank's for the neat tip.

Cheers

Hi Mac,
I would go along with Ted's advice. I have had to do a couple and have,'t had any problem with overheating. If you are short of sun, you could always try a UV lamp. It is the UV element that does the un-yellowing.

Kim